Sounds like you could do the same thing with the old spray bottle full of water trick. Where you spray a finely pulverized mist of water down the carb while it's running, after it is to operating temp. You have enough volume when you start to see some steam out the back (looks like when you are warming up a clean running car). I'm lazy though and I would probably try to set up some kind of pressure pot, instead of using a Windex bottle. I have never heard how much water to use though. I tend to use the whole bottle, which is probably excessive.
I read a article in "Consumer report" ( commie rag , but good!) Where they took a **** load of slant 6 NYC cabs & rebuilt every engine & tried differant oils in them, ran the **** outta them for awhile & then tore everyone down & checked for wear. They found that the brand, Viscosity & additives didn't make much differance at all ,BUT the secret was changing the oil alot!!(every 3000 at the most, 2000 was better!! Thing that amazed me was that they said 10-30, 20-50, 5-30 yada yada made no differance!!They did use all name brand oils, not "skippy " brands. They also tried differant additives & said they really didn't do anything. So get out there & change your oil!! Remember when it gets down to something that moves"OIL IS YOUR FRIEND"!! JimV
I don't know but , this guy did some test with Lucas. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
If 'bob really is the oilguy', he would tell you that the tests he performed are only a small part of any type of lubricity test for oil. There are many others. some a lot more important.
I dont use any additives, but may do so if my supply of Coastal 15W40 CI rated oil runs out. Currently our Autozone carries 1 gallon bottles of Coastal which is CI rated, not CI plus or CJ. Dont know if it is a local phenom or not, but I buy a gallon each trip to town. A year or two ago I read a report on some research a man made on the oil brand, and it looked like a high quality oil.
An old hot rod guy told me that Rotella T is the way to go. Used mostly for diesel applications, they have a 15-40 thats used for both gas and diesel and has all the additives. I buy it at Walmart and its priced the same as the other. Go to Shell.com and read all about it. In fact, I think there was an article in Hot Rod or Street Rodder late last year about this very topic.
Hot Rod, Car Craft and Engine Masters have all touched on that being the most available and likeley the cheapest of the quality oils with enough ZDDP in it. I'm sure there are other publications that cover it as well.
Rotella-T used to be the hot ticket until this year - that's when they removed most of the "good" additives. This is what the guys above are discussing regarding CI-4 & CJ-4. The new stuff is rated CJ-4 & does not have the previous levels of ZDDP. Check your Shell carefully - most of the old stuff is gone (still some stock left out there) - you're looking for an API rating of CI-4 or CI-4+. If you see CJ-4, and believe you need ZDDP, keep looking.
castrol syntec 20-50, i saw last week in pep boys, says right on it, "specially formulated for old cars" or something along those lines. it cost around 6 bucks a quart. the way my es*** burns and leaks oil, its not going in my pan. i normally dont like to run addatives, but i dumped a bottle of that thick gooey stuff, maybe motor honey or something in my es*** and it helped with the oil consumption. ill keep trying addatives as long as it lasts as im not fixing the motor thats in it.
Forget the snake oils. Use a synthetic or synthetic blend changed every 6 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first, regardless of town or highway use. You can even start with a nasty sludgy 100,000 mile motor within ten changes the oil will clean up. There's a lot of things you can do to trick an engine into not ticking. Back in the cheap days it wasn't uncommon to see me adding a quart of gear lube to one of my 150,000 mile chevies. Sure stopped the ticking and slowed down the leaks. Good for the engine? not so sure. Whatever you do, avoid "restore". It's grit in a can.
Even the synthetics are down on ZDDP - all your modern close-tolerance engines use roller lifters & don't need it. Just read on Fordbarn that Mobil is reformulating 15-40 for older engines with increased ZDDP...
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