Technical Oil filter update

If I wanted to replace a byp*** sock type oil filter with a new type spin on full flow filter would there be a drop in oil pressure?
The plan is to make an adaptor that fits inside the sock filter can that a modern spin on filter can screw on to. So I guess the question is, will the full flow type filter provide so little restriction to flow that the system pressure would be less? Or is the restriction of the fittings/tube going to the filter the elements that restrict flow? Anyone done this?

 

I think it would help to know what engine your working with?

 

You could use a spin on byp*** type filter instead, eh? Like that on the Rambler six, from the mid 50s to mid 60s.

 

It’s really important to select a cartridge intended for byp*** use as they filter much smaller stuff. Normal full flow p*** that stuff. Good suggestion as usual

 

Why?

 

thanks for the thoughts. First off, the motor is a little off topic, that's why I did not say what it is at first. It's my '46 International motor ( flat head 6). As for why, so I could run an easy to get filter, I only have one sock filter left. But I bet I could find more somehow, I do have a Hastings number and I'm sure it fits many other motors. Maybe even the Ford flathead, I should do some looking.
KenC, I did not know the byp*** filter filtered finer, thanks.
Squirrel, Thanks but I was thinking of putting the filter inside of the stock can and that looks too big.

 

Another solution is to remove the filter, and plug the holes where the lines connected to the engine. Oil filters were an optional accessory back then.

How many miles do you put on the truck every year?

 

Sure, that will work, but why go backwards? Byp*** Filters do a good job and filter out finer particles than full flow filters. Someone on "The Ford Barn" did some experimentation and found that all of the oil in the engine p***es through the filter every 10 to 11 minutes. I would imagine it's about the same with your International. Actually, with the maintenance and utilization of these vehicles these days, a Byp*** Filter is an ideal solution for these engines. Back in the old days, we had dirt roads, bad weather conditions, and neglect; now we have paved roads, "Sunday Drive" conditions and regular (sometimes overzealous) maintenance. It's the perfect storm.

As to availability of filters, have you tried an farm implement dealer? The filter on my flathead Ford is the same as used in 8N and 9N Ford tractors and is readily available. Since IH made a ton of tractors, I'd bet there's some overlap.

 

The reason I asked why is the byp*** filtration is actually a good system. On a Flathead V8 there has been some studies that 100% of the oil is filtered every 9 minutes or so of run time. Also many have the opinion that the byp*** filters are just "better" filters.
I did do a quick search on "sock filters" and I had results for flat-sixes....I think Mopar and Chevy stovebolt stuff. International borrowed heavy from the other manufacturers. So....
You should be able to find filters.

 

because we're on the HAMB?

I think I've only played with two cars recently that didn't have an oil filter, the 1940 La Salle, and the T. Kind of amazing that they were still around and running after all these years, without ever having their oil filtered. Taught me something.

 

Right on, Jim.

Ben

 

So, let me get this straight; you guys are saying that NO oil filter is better than a byp*** filter? (Which have been around longer than Hot Rods - 1923.)

I'll stick with my previous statement.

 

I removed the byp*** filter on the 235 in my 37 Chevy due to oil pressure issues a few years ago and with only one oil change a year the engine has not gotten dirty inside,the replacement 235 will get a filter but they will live alot longer without a filter with the roads we have today compared to what they had when new.

 

Going backwards, why so shocking? Everyone so busy with early cars that you have not noticed how tiny oil filters have become these days?

 

That's not what I'm saying. A byp*** filter is better than no filter. But most of the engines we play with here will probably outlive all of us without any filter at all, as little as most of them are driven.

The OP is trying to figure out a way to deal with not having replacement filters easily available, and was considering making a strange hack to deal with the problem. I'm just pointing out another way to deal with the problem.

 

I agree; no "hack jobs".

I think that being an International, filters are out there.

 

@46international without knowing exactly your filer number there is lots of filters on the web from trucks to tractors available. Even the jungle folks have them.

 

Using make year and sock and found this if correct?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-51002/make/international

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/wix,51002,oil+filter,5340

 

One thing to absolutely remember, It was normal rather than the exception to change your oil every 1000 miles when these engines were new and change the filter every second oil change.
I can remember being on a road trip to San Diego with my dad and him being worried that he had gone over the 1000 mile mark. The exception to that is the low mileage 40's and 50's cars you find now with burned up engines in them that have been sitting since the 50's. A lot of the time an engine was totally worn out by 50 or 60K. If you ever went 100K without and engine rebuild you probably got your and your car's picture in the weekly home town paper.

 

Here's a real life story. When I bought my '51 in 1987, it was a 61,000 mile car in very good condition, with one repaint. From all the records that came with the car, and conversations with the previous owner, I am as sure as I can be that it still had the original engine, that had never been overhauled. Now, this was a car that had been bought new by two bachelor brother farmers as their "Sunday go to Church" car, and been meticulously maintained, (including oil and filter changes). I did an ignition tune up when I got the car and it ran fine, although it seemed a little weak. A compression check put all 8 cylinders in the 85-90 psi range. I had the radiator cleaned, and the engine ran cool and with good oil pressure. I drove the car that way until 2016, when it started to make a funny noise in the engine (it still ran on the thermostats and had good oil pressure (50+ down the road). I had a '51 Merc ready to go into the car, so I pulled the original engine. Doing the Merc into a Ford swap requires the oil pans to be changed. While cleaning out the Ford pan, I found a chunk of the rear main bearing thrust face about an inch long in the bottom of the pan. Although I can't be sure, I am ***uming that this was the cause of the "funny noise". I "plasti-gaged" the bearings and found them to be within factory specs. There was, however, a noticeable ridge in the cylinders, no doubt meaning the rings were also worn.

What this is telling me is that, in contrast to your " engine (that) was totally worn out by 50 or 60K", this engine had survived much longer because of the regular maintenance (and probably modern oil). (I have never been in agreement with the old policy of changing the filter every second or third oil change; why leave a quart of dirty oil in an engine?). All of this has made me a firm believer in byp*** filters and regular oil changes. The original rings, however, I am not so sure about.

 

My mom had an OT car, 2003 model, I think, that was a "change the filter every other oil change" car, per the owners manual.

Getting a new dose of oil additives seems to be more important than getting the last drop of dirty oil out of an engine, these days, eh?

I'm curious how many miles you put on the 51, before you had engine trouble.

 

26,000.

 

Maybe this will help - http://www.secondchancegarage.com/feature-articles/sock-filter-1.cfm

 

There shouldn't be any noticable difference in oil pressure between the old cartridge style and a remote spin on. The difference if at all would be because of the filter media.

Every inline six BMW E39 has a cartridge oil filter that you reach from the top. Cartridge filters are just more work and messier if you aren't careful than a spin on.

 

Funny that you bring up the Cadillac/LaSalle flathead 8, I have a '37 Cadillac that used a filter that could not be found (at least cheaply) so I cut the filter can open and put a modern filter inside. These filters were a metal can that you could not open, you just replaced the complete unit. But this filter just filtered the oil going to the hyd lifters, they were tapped into the main galley with external lines and the output of the filter went to the lifters, so in this case it was a full flow filter somewhat.

 

As far as blocking off the filter and just not worrying about it, I guess I could just not change it and it will slowly clog filtering less and less.... Don't think I will do that, like others have said, I'm sure with a little effort I will be able to find the correct element.
To tell the truth, as I get older, I'm thinking about how all my old stuff will be maintained. I know my son or son in law will end up with with this truck, so this is an effort to make things easier on them. and a $5 walmart filter would be great for them.
.... are there $5 filters anymore? I bet not but you get what I mean.

 

Johnny Gee, that looks like the correct filter. Thanks for doing the research.

In fact, thanks to all for your thoughts on this. Guess the thing to do is to just leave it the way it is.

 

This was what I was thinking, as we know the Ford flathead has a restricting fitting inline to the filter I would think to keep oil pressure in the main. My motor does not, but it may just have a small port at the filter housing (have not looked at this) but the line to the filter is small, looks like smaller than 3/16 brake tube size so this may keep the flow down.
If you look at the filter that Jim posted, you can see the small holes for the oil to flow through. Small as they are they look larger than my small line to the filter. Anyway, the filter element itself may offer enough restriction to keep pressure in the main. I guess for a test I could just remove the element and drive it around to see if the pressure is lower.

 

When I had a stock 1932 Hupmobile F222 straight 8, I used a remote spin on filter and plumbed it back to where the stock lines ran into the block. The original was one of those throw away cans, a Purolator PR1. It didn't look at all stock but it protected my newly rebuilt engine.

 

I sure hope whoever gets it will drive it enough to require some maintenance...that does not seem to be very common, unfortunately.