Technical Oil for non-roller cam

Don’t forget the importance of the filter!

NAPA Gold are made by WIX

 

being a old machinist, i have my cams polished so i don't have to break in the cam. the blown buick gets regular amsoil 10-30. btw, no oil filter on it.

 

I've used Brad Penn/Penn Grade oil for the last 8 or 10 years and haven't had any problems. Whether that is due to good oil or dumb luck I can't say. But, it's worked for me.

 

Basically, use pre-SM oil. And I've seen oil marked SM/C? that seems to indicate that Diesel oil doesn't have any more zinc than current car oil.

 

I use Rotella for all my carbureted engines.

 

From the reading I've done , here & elsewhere , there's a bit more to it than that .

 

What is the process on this? (Not to side track the thread)

 

I've used Joe Gibbs Hot Rod break-in oil then VR-1 20-50 in my three small block Chevy's. Two are hydraulic flat lifters and my favorite is an original GM 097 in my '55 Delray with a 283.

 

The Cl***ic Car Club of America sells a 15W-40 engine oil formulated for vintage engines. It is sold by the case. Two cases ship for the shipping cost of one.

I am using Lucas 10W-40 Hot Rod Oil in my small block Dodge hemi. with a hydraulic lifter cam.

 

Read the ZDDPlus website. The product is sold here from an Alliance vendor.

 

I'm sure there is, like the quality of the parts your using. Other than make sure the lifters spin when your breaking it in and use a break-in oil of co****, you should be good to go. After it's broken in a good shelf oil should be fine for a mild street engine.
It's worked for me over the years.

 

It's not dumb luck. It really is good oil. I've been using it in my drag car, and my Harley for quite some time. And now in my '65 F100 300 in line six. I've had plenty of engine failures, but not a single one that was oil related. Plus it does way WAY better with alcohol dilution than anything else I've used.

 

Mike. I was just going to mention the dilution deal and Brad Penn. We always ran BP in our race engines. We ran straight 70 wt in our Injected alky dragster. First time using the oil, we made a p*** and went to run the valves. Pulled the valve covers and there was beads that looked like water laying at the bottom of the cyl heads and I thought it was water beads. I touched my finger into them and they were alky. It would not mix with the oil. Then when we went injected nitro, same deal. That's when we started cooking our oil after we drained it. To cook off the alky. The oil was fine. We would dump it back in the engine and run it again! Saved us a lot of money on oil changes. It was green like the old Kendall oil. If you got it on your hands you couldn't get it off. Slipperiest stuff I've ever seen. Lippy

 

https://negearpolishing.com
under scope grinding leaves a mountainous finish. polishing takes the mountains down to the valley. if you ever s****ed machine ways, you would understand it better. hated s****ing.