Hot Rods Oil Treatment

I have an older Ford engine with a flat tappet cam that I just built. I added Havolene oil and Rislone oil treament for older engines with a Zinc treatment. Do I need to add this after every oil change or just the 1st time?

 

I dig the Rislone oil treatment with ZDDP. Add it with every oil and filter change per manufactures instructions. As in oz per qt. and don't overfill. Not good for the cat, we don't use um here!

 

I use Rotella T in my flat tappet engine. No additive needed, and its available everywhere.

 

Many Threads on the ZDDP thing. Resilone has it, diesel oil no longer does, as I've seen bottles marked SM/CJ, SM & SN have none.

 

I think SF still has zinc in it if you can find it?

Now I am of the opinion that adding some good old snake-oil named, "Marvel Mystery Oil", (old-fashioned Top-Oil), to my oil does several things.

1. It helps lube the valve seats so seat recession is held at bay;

2. It cleans my intake track and backs of my intake valves;

3. It lubes, (and unsticks), rings; and

4. It generally helps clean the inside of my engine by removing any possible sludge build-up.

I add 1/2 a bottle to my gas tank at fill-up every so often as well as pour the rest in my oil at an oil/filter change.

But to each his own because some say I am full of sh-t!!

I think Bardahl and Wynns are "Top-Oils" sold too.

Now for an old noisy loose engine, I use STP or Motor Honey to increase my oils viscosity.

Otherwise I have ran something like 20w50 or straight 50wt.

pdq67

 

I use Brad Penn oils in my older motors, no additives needed, already has everything in it they need.

 

Older than what? An OHV engine may need zinc especially a high perf model with stiff valve springs and high lift cams. A flathead won't if it is stock.

 

It's a 302, older than 4.6 and 5.4. Older than roller cam engines. I need to look at oils with Zinc in it. The Rislone oil supplement with Zinc treatment is $9.99 for 11 oz. That would add $10. per oil change.

 

Actually adds approximately $7 to a change because it replaces 1 quart of oil from the change, still not high priced insurance in my books.

 

Have you ever looked into what "540rat" says about his great big multiple oil test he is into??

Might hunt it up and read it..

Here is something like it..

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-266012.html

Some people say 540rats stuff is BS and others say it is good info to know..

pdq67

 

If you just built the engine what does the cam grinder recommend? I would go by that more than some random internet guy.

 

I got the cam kit from Summit. It's a Summit brand. When does 11oz replace 1 quart of oil?

 

My bad, I was thinking of the regular Rislone oil treatment, which comes in 32 oz containers. It still comes down to how much is your engine worth to you?

 

Wal-Mart has "Accel" brand 10-W40 SF oil. Some Valvoline, Royal Purple, ect has pre-SM if you look carefully.

 

Deep subject......most of what we're talking about can't hurt. Incidences of flat tappet cams going flat has definitly increased over the years. I would think the cam grinders would be a good source for statistical data on this, as well as info on what additives might help.

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Read here: www.ZDDPlus.com Product is sold here by a HAMB Alliance vendor - support the HAMB!

 

Sorry, wasn't done with that post, but the wife wanted to go her Mom's house, and it WAS Mother's Day after all.....
Anyway, most of the trouble seems to be with cams these days, maybe bearing materials have changed to accommodate the new blends of oils? Or, maybe their just not as sensitive to it. I used to manage one of the Navy's Joint Oil Analysis Lab ten or so years ago, but we were more focused on wear particles in the oil than the actual additive package of the oil. Seems like the oil the Marines sent us out of their vehicles was heavy in Molybdenum? Memory isn't as clear as I'd like on this, so don't just take my word for it. Any ex-Marine mechanics that can confirm this on here?

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I'm using VALVOLINE VR-1 20-50 racing oil in my '57 283 with a solid-lifter cam (copy of the Duntov 097 stick) with NO additives. A call to Valvoline assured me this oil had 1200ppm of ZDDP, and a detergent pakage good for 3k between oil changes. Racing oils have NOT been subjected to the reductions in ZDDP, as they are formulated for 'off-hiway use' and not subject to API new car testing.

ANY NAPA store should have VR-1 on the shelf or be able to order a case for you, as NAPA's oil is packaged by Valvoline.

I've read enough crap on the ZDDP issue to make my head spin! The reductions in oil have been gradual over the past 10-15 years, to not affect older engines still in service (and well broken in). My conclusions:
Old engines still running - stay the course with 'shelf' oil and NO ADDITIVES.
NEW ENGINES with stock valvetrain - use RACING OIL for the first 20k, then switch to 'shelf' oil.
Any engine with with a PERFORMANCE CAM AND KIT ( stiffer valve springs, flat tappet cam) - Stick with RACING OIL for the life of the engine.

Be WARY of imported lifters that may be SOFT - gringo-made would be the safeist route IMO. I would call the seller to ask the COUNTRY OF ORIGIN before odering a cam and lifters from ANYONE!!! -Tim