Technical Ok, Ford FE gurus let’s talk

I have a 55 F-100, had a 68 390 and a top loader 4-speed and the dana with 4:10 gears when I bought it. That cab is short and the pedal location puts your knees up high… not as bad as my 27 but it was not anything I liked so I pulled it out .
The 9.5 compression 390 , 4v was really fun the gears really helped . An overdrive would have been better as on the freeway the rpm noise was really bad. I would recommend you find someone with a slant cab and manual to see and maybe sit it , with big power its hard to use if you’re contorted like a pretzel, I have a 56 Customline with an FE and a T10, its very comfortable and like night and day compared to the F100.

 

I'll probably use the TKX tranny. Ergonomics play a bigger role than staying traditional on this one. I have a seat I nabbed out of a 1988 Bronco. It sits pretty good. I'll hang pedals on the firewall if need be.

 

Chris, ... knowledge is power, watch this from Powell Machine regarding FE hyd. roller lifters. He also grinds cams. Video: Bb/Fe Ford Roller Lifter problems to be aware of (youtube.com)

Also, I'd recommend using Speed Pro/Sealed Power L-2291F Forged Pistons as they are forged with 4032 alloy which allows you to run .003" wall clearance, which keeps them quiet, yet way stronger and tougher. With today's extremely terrible gas, you want the insurance this piston gives you against detonation.... keep your compression ratio 9-1 or lower.

If you forgot, I've been doing this for 48 years. Remember the HAMB Drag days?
God Bless.

 

Cool you found the "105" shot, I was gonna head outside and take a pic, but will just stay in where it's warm. Something else to remember is the rocker arm ratios are different between the factory adjustables, and the ol' cheapo versions, like 1.76 v 1.73, and most cam specs are published using the 1.76 number. Also, for us tri power people, 2 bbl carbs are rated differently than 4 bbl versions, meaning the 1030cfm rated 6V carbs are actually down around 710cfm. The durn 4100 carbs are also rated weird, putting the 1.08 versions down around 410cfm in actual flow. While I'm blabbing , the first year 428's came with 1.08 4100 carbs, while most 4bbl 352's I've seen of that same year came with 1.12 venturis. By this time, Ford was convinced that their racing NASCAR, Indy and LeMans victories, instead of actual street performance, were gonna sell cars, and really dropped the ball from '65 on until the CJ (Chevy Jumper) hit the streets.

 

I remember Glenn! Thanks for the input. I'm a sponge right now. I called a buddy that is a dyed in the wool Ford guy last night. He lives about a mile from me and he is our resident FE expert. He campaigned a 390 back in the 60's. He's trying to guide me.

 

I am a simpleton, so that works Jeff.

 

Following this thread has brought back many memories from my youth. The aftermarket was very slow to develop parts for the fe's. The Ford performance catalog was your friend. I threw mine away decades ago. I wish I would have kept it. Someone had posted a pic of it on here. It was from the 60's with a crazy cover on it. Durable should not be a problem. Choosing the right cam for the application could be challenging. Daily driving is about compromises in decisions. I don't know where this will end but you certainly have gotten some input to think about.

 

I still have my 55 Year old copy of it.

 

not to beat a dead horse but the iron intake has go...back in the 60s i ran a 427 front engine dragster the bad thing on all fe motors it is a lot of work to change the intake be cause the push rods go through the intake..but on a street car a mild cam alumn intake with 1..2,,or 3 carbs they have a lot of low end power at 3000 rm you can pull a house with one ..i now have a 57 bird with a 428 with 406 try power carbs...

 

The 360 guy from FB Marketplace called me today. He said it was a running, driving truck he used to own and the guy he sold it to a year ago showed back up with it on a trailer. I guess this guy does some wrenching on the side. The motor is locked up tight. I can get it for $200, but if the reason it is locked up is because of a rod breaking or the crank is broken, it may have some severe scarring. Kinda worries me.

 

Can you pop over and pull the plugs and get a wrench on the crank pulley?

 

I thought about taking a borescope and looking in the cylinders.

 

If you’ve got one of those pull the distributor, you’ll be able to see the bottom end.

 

It was a set of three I still have mine

 

I ordered one of those cheap borescopes. Should be here tomorrow. I may call the guy and take a look once ot gets here.

 

Agreed, if it is damaged it's junk, but if it is something else.....

 

If the block is damaged, it's a $50-100 motor IMO assuming it's complete with all pulleys, alt/PS brackets and usable bits like the timing cover and oil pan.

 

Here are the specs for the cam you mentioned Colin.

Part Type: Camshaft & Lifter Set
Application: Ford FE 352-428 1963-1977
Ignition Firing Order: OE (1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8)
Cam Style: Hydraulic Roller
Basic RPM Range: 1800-5400
Manufacturers Description: Fair idle, high performance street, good mid-range torque.
Intake Duration @ .050": 219
Exhaust Duration @ .050": 225
Advertised Intake Duration (@ .006"): 272
Advertised Exhaust Duration (@ .006"): 278
Intake Valve Lift with OE Rocker Ratio (1.75): .525"
Exhaust Valve Lift with OE Rocker Ratio (1.75): .525”
Intake Lobe Lift: .300”
Exhaust Lobe Lift: .300"
Intake Valve Lift with 1.70 Rocker Ratio: .510"
Intake Valve Lift with 1.80 Rocker Ratio: .540"
Exhaust Valve Lift with 1.70 Rocker Ratio: .510"
Exhaust Valve Lift with 1.80 Rocker Ratio: .540"
Lobe Separation Angle: 110 Degrees
Intake Centerline: 106 Degrees

 

^^^^
That cam would be a nice compromise between street and performance. I was a little surprised at the amount of lift as stock heads won't show much change after around .450" lift but I suppose that the lift could be necessary to smooth out the cam ramps for street use. A thought just crossed my mind but it would be expensive. How about a solid lifter version of the 427 cam? It would require adjustable rockers but would have sound and still be mild by today's standards. Looney tunes. LOL.

 

Or give Bullet Cams a call and get a custom H/R. 99% of the time a cam ground for your application is going to better than any shelf unit. They don’t cost that much more either.

 

Yeah, Bullet ground me a cam for the Caddy.
Funny story: I call bullet and I am telling the tech guy what I am looking for. We discussed all of the specs etc and he says "So do you wanna sonic cam?" A what? I ask. "A sonic cam, so thsat when you pull through Sonic everyone looks". Exactly!

 

Yeah Chris , it was the mildest one I could find off the shelf.

 

It's not a bad grind for a street motor. If I stay with the stock crank, it would be closer. If I do the stroker, it would barely be noticeable I am betting.

 

Didn't Crane make one called "King of the Drive-in"

 

Not sure but if not, someone ought to.

 

Oregon Cams is really up on the FEs. Might give him a shout!
Also when building keep the quinch low! FEs seem to like that!




Bones