OK! I Didn't mark my Lifters(solid) Am I SCREWED??

I'm wondering if you test his method without the figure 8, and they all rotate evenly........

 

use the Crane stuff in the black bottle on startup--Lucas makes one too--GM EOS works as well but I heard they modified it.

 

AND Valvoline Racing Oil. It's got more of the "good" stuff than most oils, and is readily available at most Pep Boys, Autozones, etc

 

Any one with any serious engine building skills know that you cant mix old or broke in with new! If you love that engine, you will do new cam and lifters.

I would never run a old used cam with new lifters EVER! New with new!
You asking for trouble if you put new lifters in it on that cut cam.

 

We run Brad Penn in our $24,000 sprint motor with great results. It is ugly stuff though. Westmar, the builder recommended it.

 

comp products have lifters with a lube hole in the bottom to help your new lifters/old cam live better we have used some with good results. the zppd add. seems to work well with my last couple of cams. if you change cam/lifters check out the new comp. cams thumper line pretty sweet. # for zppd is 1-215-766-1611. kirban perf prod. good luck cjc

 

The way I figure it, you took the lifters out because you were having some kind of problem, or you just like to look at your cam on sundays...

Pull the cam, put it on a shelf and admire it, and then get a nice roller cam

It might be interesting to know how flat the lifters are. I pulled some lifters out of an old dodge hemi. The lifters had hardly any wear at all, but what wear there was was different on every one. Could have easily cleaned them up, but a new set was cheaper without the labor.

 

how, or where do you get the brad penn green stuff?

 

FYI, Brad Penn is the rename for Kendal Racing Oils after the company was bought out. Good stuff...

Y-Blockhead

 

check your PM's

 

I wouldn't take a chance. New lifters on a old cam MIGHT work, keyword MIGHT.

You don't wipe your *** with $100.00 bills? Maybe you have a few to pull out of it when the cam wipes a couple lobes off, and drops all of that metal down through your engine. It usually dosn't wipe the bearings right out because you have oil working through the bearing to push the filings away. But I've seen the piston skirts pick it up, embed into the aluminum and score cylinders. I don't mean to sound harsh but it's not worth it.

Are you building a sbc? If you are you need to just order a cam. There are enough cheap cam kits out there for you to choose from. I've had the best luck with speedpro. They have some nice grinds. If it's the Clay Smith cam you are running it's more then likly to big anyway. 258 at .050 duration needs at least 12.5 to 1 and a 4000 stall convertor to work. I don't know if that's the cam you're talking about, but if it is, it's really ****ing big, and won't idle below 1,000rpm.

Be carefull with the oil additive. I'll tell you a little story. I did machine work on a circle track engine. I was in the pits at a race, and the guy was running around like something was wrong so I went over to see what was going on. He went though hotlaps, and came in right away because he lost oil pressure. I asked him a few questions, and one was did he put any additive in the oil. He dumped a bottle of his additive, I don't remember what it was, in the engine COLD. They eliminated the filter byp***, then dumped a bottle of "brand x" in and plugged the filter. I told him just try a filter. He did, and it had good oil pressure.

Most oil additives tell you to dump it in with the engine hot and running for a reason. If you just dump it in a cold engine you will get a slug of it in the filter. Then you start the engine and the cam goes flat while the oil is byp***ing the filter you will have one hell of a mess.

Worst case I know, but why take a chance. Get a cam..........

Jeff

 

Another reason I don't like zinc additives, is the cam will be wrecked long before the temperature comes up to pour it in.

Get the oil with the zinc in it is my rule. Costs more, but this ain't a salad.

The real problem is they don't make a roller cam for my old dodge engine. If they did, I would be out of the zinc business. Roller cams are 21st century. Good reliable power is always traditional...

 

Best to get on their web site and get a distributor close to you. I don't think you will find it in Pep boys etc. Usually a hot rod shop or a race parts shop.

 

Ive got them mixed up twice on My racecar. I used never sieze (silver) on the cam and lifter bases and had no problem at all!! ran the same bottom end for six yrs. There already broke in ide reuse em. FEDER

 

be the talk of the drags just put em back in..
.different engines are ez to find

 

Screwed? not yet ........but you'll be if you don't pony up for a new cam & lifters. As screw-ups go, this is cheap and easy.
Terry

 

Joe Gibbs Racing Oil makes a real good break in oil too. They call it BR. www.joegibbsdrivin.com
smokey

 

opps www.joegibbsdriven.com