Projects Old 1930 Channeled model A hot rod roadster gets a new lease on life.

And I would have kicked myself for not going and getting it myself.

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Copycat

 

Like this

 

You wish.... if I was buying one I'd get a coupe. Not a stodgy old man car sedan ; )

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I'm sure you guys have seen the Photo of the frame under my Roadster. Close to the drawing Rich B posted. Not the first time I've done this job.

The Wizzard

 

Well, that escalated quickly...

 

I got the old plate and the cycle fenders that were on it today.





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Mid '60s Channeled and Cycle-Fender'd roadster. The plot thickens.

There has to be someone that has some history on this car.

 

I know. Wish I could find them. I'm hesitant to do anything until I do.

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Have you posted in the NW Hambers social group? someone might know something. Wish I was home to pick the brains of some of the old timers I know in the south sound.

Without the history, just let the car speak to you and build your vision of what it was. Or if it is just speaking gibberish, build your hot rod.

 

I have not yet, and I will do that now.

I wish you were around too for multiple reasons.....also it was pointed out earlier that the plate is a Pierce County plate so that is your neck of the woods.

I'm really unsure of what I should do. I know what I want to do with it, which is a completely different direction than what the car was. And even if I found history on it, I'm not sure that the work done to it back then is good enough for this to have been considered a significant car. Nor do I really want to restore a channeled cycle fender roadster. I wouldn't change it if I found it complete. I'm just not sure that this cars "quality" deserves a restoration.

 

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anyways.

All right, so I thought I would add some words. Today I bought another roadster cowl, 4 doors, and a drivers quarter from my new hot rod friend. I'll let him chime in if he reads this and feels like it. But anyways. he's got some cool things going on, and this stuff is the perfect fit for me and this car.

At this point the plan is complete drivers side quarter swap. This one needs work but as a whole is much nicer than mine. Between the 2 rough drivers doors and mine I think I can make one. and I am gonna take the firewall as well.

I don't know what the plan is for the left overs but I will probably move them along once I figure out what I need to keep.

 

Awesome build!! This looks like fun. I too have a 1930 roadster. I am looking for doors. Keep me in mind once you have figured out what is extra. Are you going to Portland Swap Meet?

 

Quick late night thrash



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Bump for the day crowd

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Good score on the other parts.

 

totally! Could not be happier about that purchase!

 

was a colorado altered drag car... sbc pipes exited through holes cut into the cowl sides, roll bar supports through the quarters...
got a bum leg... so no sticks...
thinking it channeled over an A frame, pinto motor, fluffed out to try and resemble a banger with overhead conversion, auto tranny... skinny wheels

 

nice! I love this car...

 

So I have been thinking. I probably will return this car to somewhat close to how it was. I am thinking of a couple changes.

1) spring over instead of the spring in front. I'm just not in love with the look. But I am willing to mock it up like that... we'll see.

2) doors and trunk will be opening.

3) removable cycle fenders.

4) maybe a swept front frame to get it back as low as the spring in front.

I guess though that is a lot of changes and might not be keeping enough original to consider it the same as it was.

I'm still looking for the original builder as well.


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Hitchhiker; Is it the spring in front of the Axle or that it often pulls the tires back shortening the wheel base?
The Wizzard

 

Here is a photo of more in place kind of hiding what it can. For me being full fendered as this one will be really helps. People end up looking at the complete Car instead of just parts.
The Wizzard

 

It's the shortened wheel base

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I have to agree with you. On my chassis the Wheel base is stock. Check out this photo of my chassis Pieces laid out on the floor.

I actually used 2 partial sets of Frame rails and stretched the over all rail length moving both the front and rear cross members so to keep the wheel base stock. Here is a photo of the rear tire with body mounted to stay. The rear axle is 1936 with spring behind.

Notice rear tire is centered in wheel well. To mount my rear fenders I will raise the bead line 4.5" but the wheel fits where it belongs in relation to the Body. Now here is the front fender clamped to the frame rail in it's proper place. I was doing this to get the Exhaust centered in the pocket where the splash aprons will go.

As you can see the tire fits as Stock, not sucked back. I'll also add my floor pan is Flat from toe board to rear spring cross member. The splash aprons I'll build will be Stock length not stretched. Doing the front cross member also gave me about 6.5" more motor compartment so it's way easier to run a stock manual fan. Just some Food for Thought.
The Wizzard

 

The spring in front should be done with appropriate frame mods! To keep the wheelbase intact!!

Just a question, will a spring behind rear, with the bells flipped, and a spring in front keep status quo, and elude the need to make a Tardel-styled rear
kick up?
On top it gives hydraulic brakes, all around, and make your car sit lower in one gentle sweep?
Even before you start plying with springs, brings lower shock mounts also.
And since your car is channel and need body work, pushing it a little back to make wheelwells line up should be easy?
And you can bob the frame horns and tuck them behind a 32 grill if the frame need modifications [emoji41]

That how I would do it.
And if you do the mark up it should be possible to try two or three ways to skin that cat, before doing the measure-twice-cut-ones method that are good!

 

Wizzard, that looks fantastic. I'm with Hitchhiker, spring in front definitely presents proportion challenges. Often getting the rad hanging way out front like a tractor. Don't get me wrong, spring in front was very common once upon a time, some guys got it looking good, others, not so much. Your build has solved the 'tractor look' issue, while taking advantage of all the benefits that Rasmus mentioned.

 

Hooray. I'm glad you've decided to be (un)reasonable and stick with the channeled frame. I'll even come up and drink your beer while you put it together.

For now I'll post the pic of the local similar, but not-quite-a-match, roadster that I posted in your other thread...

 

I just went a re-read this thread. This is gonna be a cool rod. A

The A frame needs some work to be 32 kind of sturdy. But it would be cool to keep it channeled over and A frame, the axle and bones you got, paint it blue and run the fenders you got with it. But despite now so unconventional , but SO era perfect!!

Running flathead or early OHV. Not SBC or SBF. But the Winfield is also cool, but Flathead or early would be the coolest.



Just a little hint! A notch in the right direction