Old Busted-Ass Circuit Breakers

I have a feeling that the 30 amp circuit breaker that the ignition and lights run through is pretty much shot, it no longer resets itself... Can I replace it with in-line 30 amp fuses and byp*** the c.b. completely? The car will not run right now because of this electrical issue. The only fuses in the schematic are for the radio and the clock (if I'm looking at this correctly), everything else is run through the circuit breakers. 30 amp protection should be the same whether its fuses or breakers, right? Help the electrically challenged!

 

yes. a fuse is a circuit breaker

 

Many auto parts stores will have 30 amp circuit breakers in either a bolt-on style, or plug-in fuse styles, both gl*** and spade lug push in.

Cosmo

 

In an effort to hopefully avoid a permanent outage at the wrong time, lights have a self-resetting breaker. If you want to retain that safety feature you could install a self-resetting breaker or manual reset breaker instead of a fuse. Appropriate and affordable breakers are available in a variety of configurations.

 

You can put a universel inline 30 amp circuit breaker or fuze in to replace the old circuit breaker. You can buy them at any parts store or even wal-mart. Circuit breakers are better, but you need to remember that every time you pop a circuit breaker it gets a little weaker.

 

Take a look here for a good selection of circuit brakers
http://www.delcity.net/store/Circui...uit-breakers?gclid=CKXvoZTKnKYCFYHb4AodZ0K1ng

 

Had the same problem back in the 70s with my 50 Plymouth. Yes, you can use a fuse - amps is amps - but what I did was, as almost everyone else has suggested, was to use a generic 30 amp breaker.

 

Good point. I could run a separate one that self resets for the lights.

 

The self-reset does not occur until after the breaker has a chance to cool off. By the time that happens you have already driven off the edge of the cliff. If you are concerned about the breaker tripping, and want to reset it quickly, then you need one that can be manually reset and is accessible while driving.

 

I'd be checking to find out why you're constantly tripping the breaker, then make the appropriate fixes and upgrades.

 

Obviously while I'm under the dash that will be investigated
This wasn't a constant thing, it only happened 3 times. First time it reset in like 5 minutes, second time it reset after a day, this time it never reset and it tripped in November. I would imagine it just got old and worn out.

 

Before anything else messes up put a 30 fuse in it and see how long it holds up,if it blows real fast fix the problem,then move on.If it holds up just buy the push in manaul reset breaker.Electrical problems in a car are worse than having yours inlaws over for a day and they stay a week.

 

ain't that the truth

 

just replace it. simple.

 

The stock MoPar circuit breakers of that era wear out like that. Common problem for them, with no wiring fault or short circuit.

 

good to know, at least I won't be chasing a ghost

 

This is a ****ty job, and I'm not done with it, but at least I'm finally getting around to rewiring behind the dash. I ended up getting a self resetting circuit breaker. As a bonus, the car fired up for me today. Hasn't run in two months, cold temperatures, and it started right up. I'm running all new wiring to the rear of the car also since I have the dash off. Not too much more before the entire car has new stuff, I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel!

 

Well this project is really starting to piss me off. I pulled the dash out and rewired it in my ba*****t on a table. Went wire by wire and reconnected everything as I went along.







Everything is hooked up according to the wiring diagram. Double and triple checked. After I put the dash back in the car and hooked everything back up, it wouldn't start. Checked all my wires coming through the firewall. No loose connections. No panel lights or power anywhere. No clicking at the solenoid. But then, I got it to start. Weird. It was cold out, and after a minute, I let it idle down and it cut off from not being warm enough yet. Since then I haven't been able to get it to crank, and no panel lights or power anywhere. Could the new circuit breaker have failed? Or should I suspect the ignition switch? What about the horn relay? If the horn relay failed, would that cut power to the dash? I'm confused and stumped and aggravated. I got a new universal ignition switch from NAPA today, but was still unsuccessful in getting it to start. Any ideas?

 

anyone?

 

Well you haven't given much to go on. When you say 'doesn't start', what does that mean? It cranks but does not fire? It does not crank?

Do the headlights work? Can you jump the solenoid - what happens then?

That circuit breaker should not see the ignition circuit, so throw it away and the motor will still start.

Please go through the basic diagnostics and then report back if you still have a problem.

 

Time to break out the multi-meter. Start at the battery and check each circuit for continuity. It is a waste of time to try and guess where there is a fault in a circuit.

 

no clicking and no panel lights? check your battery terminals man and make sure they're tight and clean

 

I thought I was giving all the info when I posted this below the last pic

"Everything is hooked up according to the wiring diagram. Double and triple checked. After I put the dash back in the car and hooked everything back up, it wouldn't start. Checked all my wires coming through the firewall. No loose connections. No panel lights or power anywhere. No clicking at the solenoid. But then, I got it to start. Weird. It was cold out, and after a minute, I let it idle down and it cut off from not being warm enough yet. Since then I haven't been able to get it to crank, and no panel lights or power anywhere. Could the new circuit breaker have failed? Or should I suspect the ignition switch? What about the horn relay? If the horn relay failed, would that cut power to the dash? I'm confused and stumped and aggravated. I got a new universal ignition switch from NAPA today, but was still unsuccessful in getting it to start. Any ideas?"

 

Is the dash grounded? Does it need to be for the dash lights to work? maybe for the starter ****on?

 

the dash is all bolted in so if it needs to be grounded it is

 

Okay, so continuity checks out good. With the key in the 'off' position, I have 6.4 volts running to the battery side of the circuit breaker. When I switch the key to 'on' it drops to 0.00 at the battery side, so on the other side of the c.b. there is no power either. Is the ignition switch suspect? I tried using a 4 post universal ignition switch, but wasn't quite sure which terminal should run to the horn relay. I had it ST to starter solenoid, IGN to horn relay, ACC to fuel gauge, and AM to circuit breaker. I also tried horn relay to ST and IGN to starter solenoid also with no luck. Again, I did get it to start up once after I rewired the dash, but it only ran a minute and lost power after that.

 

if I jump the solenoid it will turn over but not fire

 

sounds like you have a short if you have no volts after you turn the key. The ignition switch should use power from the voltage regulator before the circuit breaker, so you should have power there all the time. The circuit breaker is only for the lights.

 

What year is your car. I have a 49 plymouth and I just wired in a 4 post ignition switch, and it works good. The horn relay gets power from the battery side of the starter solenoid. At lest it does on my car.

 

car's a '49, should be wired like yours