Projects Old or new drive shaft?

Gimpy, understood. I may just end up removing .5-1" as I found out that the tail shaft housing for fairlane and custom Fordo's are different. So I will head to the shop and talk with them and come up with a solution.

 

Just had a driveshaft cut down for my 1950 Sedan Delivery project. I had pulled the rear end from a 1996 S-10 4x4 pickup, and grabbed the driveshaft while under the truck. It is going into a T-5. I measured from the end of output shaft on the T-5 to the center of the U joint on the rear end. This is the measurement the driveshaft guy wanted. He had to replace the rear yoke, and then he balanced it, sanded and painted, and both new U joints for $230.00. I was happy with the price and it all seems to fit. Going to try to drive the car in a few weeks.

 

That is about what it will cost me to get mine shortened and new U joints and balance.

 

When you pushed the drive shaft into the transmission and could get it to work, did you have to force the u-joint into the rear axle for it to "fit" or did it fit easily? Then when it was in and fit, was it bottomed out so it couldn't go in anymore, or did to have to pull it out a little to connect it to the rear end?

The important point is, when the rear end moves up and down as the car goes over bumps and such, that driveshaft can not bottom out in the transmission, EVER, in any position along the rear end travel in both the up and the down direction. If it ever bottoms out while in use, something is going to be damaged.

The shop that told you to bottom out the driveshaft in the trans and measure the spacing between the U-joints probably would build you a drive shaft 1" shorter the the U-joint measurement you give them.

 

Yeah he said to bottom it out and deduct 3/4" of an inch. But I have rotate the front engine mounts so the engine sits back about 1/2". That way I can get the ****** to bolt up, then I will remeasure.