So, I have been holding on to an Engle solid roller for a long time with the intent to use it in my Model A that will be getting a 324 Olds. I have recently re-began looking in to getting the remaining parts to finish out the valve train and am really starting to rethink whether I'm making the right moves. So, question 1 is, given the listed cam specs would you run this solid roller for general street use? Per the 1964 Engle Catalog: Engle Nodular Solid Roller - Grind 238 - Short Duration Compe***ion Timing: Int. - 68-38, Ex. - 38-68 Duration: 286 Lift: .440 Lash: Int. .013, Ex. .015 Per the catalog it is the same lift as the "Super 3/4" solid roller, but increased timing settings and longer duration. Engle sold these as a kit with dual valve springs and a rev kit, but no spring pressure is listed, and it almost appears that they were simply supplying a fresh stock outer spring with a special inner spring as the inner springs are listed separately in the catalog for use with their solid rollers. This brings up question 2, IF you WOULD be comfortable running this on the street (Engle catalog lists it as a cam for modified engines for street or strip), what spring pressure would you run and would you additionally attempt to make a home-made rev-kit since finding the Engle supplied one would likely be impossible, or is the necessity for this completely moot if your not going for all-out-efforts where you would need to worry about floating valves? Other info regarding the car's set up: Muncie M20 trans, Ford 9" w/ 3.50 gearing, and 29.5" rear tires.
I have an old Engle roller cam in the '54 Chrysler in my dirt modified. When I had the engine built, the builder said we needed a bronze distributor drive gear because of the material used for roller cams. He finally found one, and all has been well the last thirty years. If it was a tough find for a hemi 30 years ago, I can't imagine trying to find one for an Olds these days. Good luck! The guy who built my engine was very experienced, and the first thing he did is toss the springs that came with the cam. He said they were drag race only and they would be too stiff for circle racing and the cam would wear quickly under constant use. (Mine still runs fine, but idles at 1300.)
Just off top of my thoughts around 160- 170 on seat ? Open 250-300 ? Also Technology has changed over the years a good set of solid lifters on street $ 1,800 set Up Still iffy you will lose a Roller. Most cheap S R Lifter get changed Out end of a race season maybe two times , thats 1/4 increment ,
So I was thinking 165 seemed reasonable since I’m not pushing it to the limit, but you don’t seem too confident that something like Comp Cams Endure-X solid rollers that have oil feeds to the roller would hold up? I know the bushing style like Isky’s or Crower’s seem to be in that $1800 range you mentioned.
If you are keeping the RPM range in the sane area - say, 5500 RPM or so - you will probably be successful with about 140# on the seat with 220# open @ .440 lift, and still have a relatively long cam life. X2 on a bronze drive gear on a steel billet cam. The cam specs do not sound unreasonable for a street driven engine. FWIW a drag truck I own has over 1500 p***es on a similar inline six circle track cam with no sign of harm, shifting it at 5600.
My self I have used S R on street , I feel the Open pressure more to pay attention to, so lifter does not use the Lobe like a ramp & loose contact & keep bang the roller , On S Roller Keep Valvetrain components Light especially high RPMs Even high dollar parts fail some time's , I lost a Roller one time Just by Cranking engine over By hand , I heard it break It make's a unique sound. Did not go No further , a compleat tare-down, Looking & counting all the needle rollers , some where even in between Rods , bearing shell & saddle. There are certain parts You keep a log on how many run's used, Then you replace to be on safe side. Racer's that have higher budget/funds Will have parts Xray then make a decision to use as back up or trash!! There are some knowingly sell to unexpected buyer .. One Street you are taken a guess on How to log time in use . Me When I was S -R (Jessel) on street I changed Oil ever 1,000 mile VR1 8 & 9 qts . Now I use Hydraulic Roller set up , I do not trust the Hyd or Flat tapped cams Un less I know parts are before year 2000 Over last 5 or so years there been use of H Roller lifter on Solid cam shafts .
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