Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Olds Rocket 324 in a 32 Ford; "trying to finish it thread"..

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by F&J, Dec 5, 2011.

  1. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,281

    F&J
    Member

    I read on hamb, where one pro uses a lead pencil on white vinyl. He did not say why. He said if you can see a bit of a line later, use a gum eraser.

    I can see now why he chooses that, over chalk, on a piece that has many lines. As you handle the material, chalk would wipe off too easily.
     
  2. On the recent 37 I did we picked up a fabric marker which was white, since we had dark material, that wiped off with a damp towel. My son used a similar device when he stitched up his pleats for his 32. Made life and seeing the line a lot easier. I will check with my stitching buddy to see if he has any for light material.
     
  3. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,281

    F&J
    Member

    I'm not working much in this nasty heat and humidity; it's a hobby, not a torture test :rolleyes:


    Well, I'm still having trouble with sewing straight lines. I am sure it is caused by using the sew foam.

    That foam won't be used on the top, or a good part of the seat, so it may go better.

    Pics show panels are barely held in place. I did not put in the Auveco clips yet, because this all needs to come back out during paint/bodywork. I also have not made the windlace yet, to cover the gaps at the door edges. Those are easy to make, sew, and install.


    I started laying vinyl on the roof tonight, but I am thinking I should start on the seat tommorrow instead. An elderly friend said the seat will be easier than the door panels:confused: ...he has done a lot of cars, so...
     

    Attached Files:

    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  4. Dave50
    Joined: Mar 7, 2010
    Posts: 1,751

    Dave50
    Member

    Looking good frank Keep plugging It will all come together.
     
  5. harleycontracter
    Joined: Aug 25, 2007
    Posts: 2,058

    harleycontracter
    Member

    Frank,

    Looks really nice.Great job. Looks like you're moving right along.

    Paul
     
  6. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    WOW! Thanks Jeffrey, GREAT link. I did a night school auto upholstery course about 30 yrs ago, but have pretty much forgotten most of it.
     
  7. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Looks damn good Frank. Really inspiring to see so many guys on here doing thier own interiors.
    Reminds me of a song. "I dont care what people say, tuck & roll is here to stay":p
     
  8. hotrd32
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,566

    hotrd32
    Member
    from WA

    Love that look....great job man!
     
  9. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,281

    F&J
    Member


    It's worth a try in this economy. I think it's less than $10 for materials to make a door panel, so if it looks too crappy later, it can be fixed.

    I will take the seat out in the morning and I think I have enough vinyl to do the whole "frame" of the seat. I should be able to do that in a day. I'll take some pics of how I did it.

    Sewing the cushions? well... I will see
     
  10. general gow
    Joined: Feb 5, 2003
    Posts: 6,469

    general gow
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    looks awesome, Frank. love those pleats.
     
  11. KustomCars
    Joined: Jul 31, 2011
    Posts: 3,581

    KustomCars
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Looking great Frank!
     
  12. Can't see how a seat would be easier than door-panels, but hat's off to you for trying it
    anyway... So far, so great!
     
  13. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,309

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :DHi F&J.Looking good.Those old Olds engines are the cats whiskers.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  14. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,281

    F&J
    Member

    Barely got started on the seat. First thing to do, is to find where to start, so I started on the inside pieces.

    I needed to put quilting stuffing in the upper corners so that the vinyl will be smooth on a concave corner.

    Then, it looks terrible with wrinkles when you just get started stapling it in. I am pulling the vinyl up over the top and temporarily tacking it to the outer sides,while stretching and tacking.

    That extra material on the outside will need to be trimmed off before putting the outside pieces on. Then there will be "hidem" strip running all along the edges when done.

    Tommorrow, I need to sew the 2 outside pieces to the large center panel on the back of the seat, then stretch and staple that on.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 28, 2012
  15. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,281

    F&J
    Member

    Still not getting many hours in. I started stripping off the old burlap spring covers on the original 31 Caddy seat backrest. I am not going to replace these cloth tubes, as it's too much work. I will hand tie each coil like many cars had back then.

    The bottom cushion/springs were missing, so I made my own from a rear VW bug seat, and used donor corner band strapping/framework from Bug front seats to get the correct shape. That bottom will have 3" foam on top, instead of the 2" shredded coconut fiber/glued mat that VW used.

    Full foam cushions suck for feel, so that's why I'm using spring bases. The backrest won't have foam, just batting like original. It's comfy & soft. Someone told me to use a minivan seat; if I wanted that ambiance, I'd buy a minivan and sit in the back :confused:


    Off to Joanne Fabric last night for more white vinyl and some sewfoam. Well, they don't carry sewfoam, so I hoped they would have 1/4" foam to make my own, but they start at 1/2". I bought just enough 1/2" to do the center rolled pleated panels for the seat bottom and backrest. I glued cloth to one side and sewed up the bottom center panel tonight.

    I am trying to copy the center rolled pattern from an old 50s built roadster I had 40 years ago. It had the center panel done in rolls, and surrounded on 3 sides like a horse collar U of plain vinyl.

    Even though 1/2" foam should be tougher to work with, my lines are a bit straighter..... I scotchbrighted and waxed the lower base of the old sewing machine. That made the material easier to feed, and I also changed the way I hold the material. I was overconcentrating before, on watching the pencil line. Now I concentrate on matching the speed of the fabric to the speed of the machine, to get the stitches more uniform length. When sewing foam, the walking foot won't feed the material without help.... But it will self feed 4 layers of vinyl no problem. learn, learn,learn...


    Ok, the seat frame looks scruffy on the tacked edges, but I will put Hidem welt on last, they did not stock that either, at Joanne's.


    I like working with this smooth running ancient sewing machine, and if you can find a strong machine like these, this sewing stuff is sort of fun...i think...
     

    Attached Files:

  16. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,281

    F&J
    Member

    Well, the bottom cushion is done except for some more stretching of wrinkles. I don't have a heat gun, but my son says he can borrow one. I was hoping it did not feel too stiff when sitting on it, but it feels pretty good.


    The backrest might be a real project. All I can do, is give it a go.

    I'd rather be doing the conv top sewing.

    Not sure if I can even come up with an idea on how to do the headliner; it looks like a pain.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. greaser
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 866

    greaser
    Member

    Frank, your talents just blow me away! Looks awesome...I really like the pleat width!
     
  18. BuiltFerComfort
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,619

    BuiltFerComfort
    Member

    I have an old cheap hair dryer in the shop. Cost a buck a a yard sale. Restricting the airflow in the back with your hand gets the air coming out pretty hot, enough to shrink heat-shrink tubing. May not work for you, not sure how much heat you need over what area.
     
  19. Dave50
    Joined: Mar 7, 2010
    Posts: 1,751

    Dave50
    Member

    Looks great Frank. I have a heat gun if your son can`t get one.

    Oh and that info you asked for yes it does hold 1st:D
     
  20. Dave50
    Joined: Mar 7, 2010
    Posts: 1,751

    Dave50
    Member

    Frank heres the pic
     

    Attached Files:

  21. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,281

    F&J
    Member

    I am waiting for white hidem trim to get here for the seat, so I started mixing my lacquer paint late yesterday.

    I ran out of natural daylight before I got to the color I wanted, and it looked wrong under flouresent lights.

    So, we had good sun today and I somehow made a dull drab shitty color, look like what I wanted. It is what it is ;)

    Problem was, it takes a LOT of toner to change the color when you are close to the total amount of paint you needed. I was mixing in a new 5 gal bucket.....and I kinda got a lot of spare paint:D. Hell, I can even trip over a full gallon, and not worry.

    Ok, so the lower dash will be bright white, as well as the other small lower piece near the drivers side ashtray.


    ...and, I was telling Dave50 this morning, that I'm going to try to speed the body/paint up by not getting way too fussy with sanding out every last defect. This is a homebuilt, and I don't want it to look like it is all brand new everything, and looking too perfect.

    So, I will see in the AM, if I did not sand it fine enough, when it settles. Still need a few coats more tonight.

    Geez, I like working with lacquer. I used to have problems decades ago, but it's working ok right now...I think. Maybe I was thinning it too much back then:confused:
     

    Attached Files:

  22. in the first picture it looks green/ blue, in the next two it looks sort of blue leaning towards turquoise which is it? i like both so it does not matter to me and i think it will look great, and correct, with the white.
     
  23. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,281

    F&J
    Member


    I don't know :D:confused:.... I was trying for a teal/turquoise, like would have been a bright color for the 1958-1962 Autorama builds..


    As you know we ended up with thunderstorms and gray skies late today. So the colors are under flouresents, flash, and some gray natural lighting. I'd say that the pic taken through the rear window of the whole dash, is closest to real, but it is kind of a color that changes with the angle of view.


    Hamber Earl Shieb helped me out twice with questions I had, about all the color mixing additives and polys. He said the (#310) "mixing clear" is mostly used with colors with poly flake content, and the clear "gives room for the flakes to be suspended in different angles". Sounds good to me;), so this morning I looked at the door I test painted last night, that had no mixing clear.

    It was dull, drab and lifeless...and too much of a light green 1970s look. I was so depessed that I even tried machine buffing the door, and it still looked terrible. I'll get a pic of that mess tommorrow.

    So, I then fixed the color blend with 2 types of ink blue toner, and dumped all the mixing clear I had, into the bucket...and said "f*** it":D. I hated to waste it, but it seems to work. I think that is what makes the color "flip flop".:confused:
     
  24. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,281

    F&J
    Member

    Painted the white lacquer a few days ago. Also rubbed out the blue on the dash just a little bit. Need to rub out the white in a few days. That part goes real fast; no sanding, just Soft Scrub bathroom cleaner by hand :D


    Now, I'm doing a major clean up of the shop. Adding 20 feet of pallet shelving on one wall, tossing stuff, what a messy place :)
     

    Attached Files:

  25. Frank, The dash came out nice. I like it. Cleaning the shop can be dangerous....you will never find anything again!
     
  26. Wow Frank, the dash looks really good!

    I was thinking of two-toning mine before, but you just sold me. I especially like the way the white continues onto the driver side ash tray.
     
  27. harleycontracter
    Joined: Aug 25, 2007
    Posts: 2,058

    harleycontracter
    Member

    Frank,

    Great JOB !!! all the way around . It's come a long way.......
     
  28. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,281

    F&J
    Member

    Car is coming apart for paint. I dread this part, but it's the final push to get it done.

    I had to do some body work at the top of rear deck where the top fits on, and then when I fixed that gap, then I could take the roof off...and doors/interior out.

    One of the Boston Alter Boys was here on Saturday, when the car was still together and sitting outside. He said the color looked cool, and that there is lots of room when sitting behind the wheel.

    ...and.. that the car "looks a lot cooler in person". I guess that's a compliment :D
     

    Attached Files:

  29. Dave50
    Joined: Mar 7, 2010
    Posts: 1,751

    Dave50
    Member

    Frank your doing great i wish i knew how to light a bit of a fire under ya and if its possible to get this done for the Alterboys show it would be a great addition to a great show we need more cars like yours to the pre 60 shows to fill up the spaces and have great people to chew the fat with. Goodluck hope you keep plugging
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.