Projects Olds Rocket 324 in a 32 Ford; "trying to finish it thread"..

Got back with some goodies. He wanted me to come at 11 and he closes at 12, so I kind of ran out of time to remember anything else. It's only a one hour drive for me, I'll be back.

The more I see of the place, the more it looks like Hershey in the old days. I have been shopping there for 41 years.. I even bought a 36 Ford conv sedan from there in 71. He does not sell cars anymore, though.

I did get to see inside one more floor of one of the buildings..holy crap, the "great wall of piston rings" Thousands of sets in every STD or oversize and all of it is inventoried. One friend has been to another building of his in town that has 10,000 shock absorbers that came from a name brand company reducing their stock of older applications. I was told they are very inexpensive for a set of 4.

All the stuff I got was USA, hoses, brake cyls, kingpin set, tie rod ends, etc. The only part that looked repro was the rear spring shackle kit for the 35/36 rear bones, but they are the orig style steel-jacket rubber ones...that i never tried before. I hope they press in OK.

Heathen ID'ed my chrome distributor earlier, when I said the 53 and 55 cap and rotor would not fit it. He said 49-50 Olds, so that's what I ordered. I had problems before with the wrong cap where the wires would hit the Edmunds back draft aircleaner. Well, the early cap is super short, so that's what the Edmunds was set up for: the very earliest 303's. I think the shorty cap looks cool.

Also, Pease has TONS of used stuff all over. I spotted this cool O/S mirror with a working thermometer. It needs replating, but it looks much better in person. I like it.

Got lucky with 4 sizes of NOS Packard cloth wire for the engine compartment.

And nope, he did not have any more translucent gas hose....so the world is safe

 

Man Frank, that place sounds like a gold mine! Congrats on all the neat parts, and how close you are to getting the car together and running. I've been following this build closely.

Interested in being the middle man for some parts?

 

man, that old pinstriping on those fenders is pretty cool, I dig the tail lights too. very "awkward" 50's style (as alot of things were) but looks really good...period looking

 

I love this build! Great lookin ol buggy!

 

Frank, is that the place that had/has a 30's pick up tucked on the side of the building? It may have been a radiator shop Im thinking of. I lived one town over for a bit while at school.

 

Speedy Canuck; He does mail orders.. I don't think he has a website.

Here is the contact info;
N.B.Pease & Co.
Foundry St
Palmer, Mass
Do a google for the Ph number as I don't want to post it in case any web Bots will pick it up.... or PM me for it. Closed Wed and Sun; No recorder, keep trying. He knows his parts, I know he's been in business at least 50 years, has all the books, etc. Must be the largest parts collection in the east.

Slick Willy; well it might be, because he had a stock 35/36 Ford pickup to haul parts around for decades, but he sold it a few years ago. It did sit next to one of the buildings. This place is a small side street, dead end, by the rail line. Near the 3 way intersection Rt 32/Main drag, at the BP station. Have you been through Monson Mass since the tornado? No s--- I don't even recognize upper Main St by the church.Dayum

 

It`s all coming together Frank I like everything except you will be on the road before me....

 

Come on, you must have pulled many motors apart before the main feature at the circle tracks..

Just do what you need to, for this season. Bore it out next winter.

 

Oooh! Good to know. Thanks for the knowledge.

 

I worked late last night to get the eng compartment ready for the motor install, which I planned to start by Thurs AM.

I was going to wait till the motor was back in, to do the rear main seal. I thought trying to do the seal while the motor was hanging from the engine crane would be harder, but a friend talked me into doing the seal now...

Well, the bad karma of the car continues.. Look at the pics. I dropped the pan which was spotless inside, "except" for a 1/8" deep layer of what looks like metallic from paint, all sitting in a perfect oval shape right under the oval oil pump pickup screen. hmmm..

Then I dropped the rear main out to see that the crank is rusty So then I dropped a random rod cap, and it also had a bit of rust. And if you notice the prick punch marks on the rods..this has been apart before.

I said earlier that this motor was "too clean" in the valley to be 41,000 miles...now I know that is true. The only thing I thought of is that this was one of the 54/55 motors that lost a piston top when they were new? The 56 had upgraded pistons for that reason.

So, what do I do? My spare 56 crank came from a 61k motor that lost a rod 20 years ago and the owner put used parts back in, and nicked the crank when he tapped in the replacement rod/piston..

I hate to send either crank out to a shop that sends them elsewhere??

I am planning on pulling the crank in the AM to see if the rest are worse or better.

N.B.Pease may have .001 over bearings, and likely has .010 and larger.

I don't want to tear the complete motor apart, but I need to think it all out tonight. The 303 in the 40 needs cleaning inside and at least a set of lifters, so that's not the answer.

Yes, I still love my Olds motors

 

At least the firewall looks DAMN good, Frank!

 

Dang... what a drag. Hope you're able to get it sorted soon and reasonably!

 

Well Andy, I am still thinking it out tonight. I went back to the shop to clean a spot on the main journal with 400. I'm not feeling it will polish out...yet.

I really need to pull the crank out in the AM, as maybe some journals are far worse. Even the surface for the rope seal looks like it definately needs to be machined. That's really rusty. I quess the seller was right when he said the donor car sat in a barn in MS for over 50 years after getting sideswiped. The crank dried out completely of oil, then moisture set in.

The old situation where "while you are at it, you might as well do..." But this motor is strong compression, no smoke, zero blow-by, and quiet.

 

Frank if you want bring it up we or you can polish it or you can grind it if you want I have crank grinder almost readyto use (I just cleaned the Coolant)

 

Ya, i know the place! ive never taken the time to stop in there though. My sister and brotherinlaws entire family live up on the mountain just above the church on ely rd. Its still creepy out there, but their view is great now! There entire family was very lucky, only tree and roof damage, although two relatives were struck by lightning running into their house!

Next time im out there I will take time to stop.

 

Just a minor setback; the crank has a crack up front at the first throw.

On another thread yesterday, the gang all said my spare 56 crank with a nick or two will be fine.

I did not find out if I can sneak the crank out without pulling the heads and pistons, so I will try today.

Also am trying to measure my new-old Crower cam, as I might put it in now if I find out the overlap is not too much. I don't want a "poor low end" cam.

I still should be yard drivable by the end of the month, maybe even earlier I am thinking.

 

Subscribe Great old school stuff. My first hot rod (36 5 window) had that same olds in it.

 

Just wait to see the "old school" way I will put the motor together


I came in for coffee...I got at it early and wanted to try sneaking the cam out without pulling the intake and valley cover I had just installed a few weeks ago. I knew I could do it

Pic shows the stock 55 1.8 ratio cam and the much older early 303 1.5 ratio NOS Crower hyd cam. I think Heathen was correct about this being a reground stock core. You can see the measurements taken off of the base circles...missing like .180" or so..

I've have been driving my gearhead buddy nuts when I keep trying to accurately measure the Crower lobe sep angle, lash ramp, and duration. He finally said quite sternly; "just stick it in there!" So, by gosh, that's what I will do. It is definately a hyd cam; the lash ramp is only a few thou in height, so it can't be a solid.

The lifter bases look mint, it does not even need a timing chain, I have a new one here, but this one is tight. This motor has very little run time since the old rebuild. My buddy said that those old lifters probably are made from better quality metal, and since they were new back then, just run those instead of Chinese parts. So, I will.


Then I tried sneaking the crank out...piece of cake. No problems what so ever. Also, A hamber reminded me to check the 56 crank bushing, I did it with a bore gauge and it's the same, because this was a base model 56 88 that still had the Hydra which I thought was the same bushing as stick. It is.

oh, and when I was going though some old trays of lathe parts looking for another dead center to spin the cam on the lathe...I found a freaking correct Ford kingpin reamer...the real one that aligns to both bushings. Things are looking better

 

Things are going better today. I put the Crower 1.5 cam in, and then I needed to convert the rocker shafts to 1.5 ratio with McGurk adjustable rockers. The 1.5 ratio rocker stands are needed to get the alignment right for the pushrod holes in the heads. But the 1.5 stands have a bigger dowel pin to keep the shaft from turning. In the 2nd pic, I am making a fat 1.5 dowel into a stepped dowel so the smaller tip can fit into the small hole in the 1.8 shaft. A little green locktite and it's done.

There is only one dowel on each shaft. They are mild steel.

Then I wanted to see if my pushrods were still too short due to the reduced base circle on the reground cam. A friend was turning the cam while I found zero lash, and then I did some pre-load, and on just this one valve, it looks fine.

Last pic shows that there is an oil feed hole inside the threaded hole on the McGurks that must line up with the oil groove cut into the adjuster screw. You can adjust the valves quite a bit, but if you go too far either way, the oil will be blocked.


Going to Mass in the AM to get some new/old STD rod and main bearings. He has 8 rod bearings, a rear main thrust bearing, but only has 2 of the 4 main bearings. I forgot to ask if he has the unusual .002 oversize that were used for hand polishing a damaged journal. If he has 2 of those, I will align hone them to STD.

Got a call from a new customer today, seems that the local Model A place is now sending me work... I put that job off till March 1st, it's just an A that the guy wants to "put back on the road after all these years".

I now wonder if I can get my car in finish paint this year. It will be yard driving in a couple of weeks I think, but needs a lot of bodywork yet.

 

Hey frank, sounds like that olds is doing what olds motors do! I've never been to peas but I've heard the guy HATES hot rodders?? like run you out of the place hates them. if you try to buy a known hard to find custom part like a desoto bumper from him he will laugh in your face and tell you to get the heck out because you are going to ruin a bumper for somebody that really needs it???

I've always been afraid to go there.....

maybe next time you go I can tag along??

btw, I dont know if it will help at all but I have a pretty complete 1954 olds 98 4bbl motor sitting around. it was locked up from rusty pistons if it can donate to the cause let me know!

 

Revkev; yea, I never mentioned hot rods in the past, but I get desperate because the swaps don't have some of the stuff I need. I found the unusual bullet shaped, non-see through mufflers I really wanted, at Pease's. I merely asked "Just wondering if you ever bought out a parts place that had hot rod mufflers?". He said, follow me. We went though isles of treasures to get to a huge pile of glasspacks etc, and I found 3 of the exact ones I wanted real bad.

I just asked for old see through colored gas line, but he could not find any. So, he knows...maybe just mellowed out over the years. He is a real nice guy IMO

and Lance, the hamber that runs the Milltown show goes there, and he has tattoos and drives a rod, but i don't know if he drives it there



I'll ask for old speed shop hardcore stuff...maybe tomorrow...after the bearings are in my hands and paid for

And yes, we can hook up if you want to go, but most times I never get invited to tour any building. It's only when you are searching for a "match" to some vague part. What i have seen is incredible.

Pics below: is only what you see in the counter area

 

a place like that is always better if you show up to buy something with a repeat customer!

looks like a horrible place to shop by your pics!

 

An older friend of mine has been going there so long that he has permission to go anywhere in any building to look for stuff. He needed a dual split windshield and posts for a 1918 Chevy touring and found FOUR of them to choose from.

 

I went back to the old parts store yesterday to get some engine bearings. He did have a full set of STD rod bearings. The main bearings are 4 of one type, and one rear main. He had the rear main and only 2 of the other 4 in STD.

I hoped he had 2 of the old .002 oversize that I could resize to STD. He only had one of those, so I knew I'd have to try resizing at least one of the used .010 mains that I took out, if there was enough babbit on the shells.

I messed up the first 2 by going slightly over specs, but the 3rd one went great and ended up at .001 clearance before polishing the crank. So then I figured it would be real quick to resize the .002 bearing....NOT.... That one box was marked "not resizable". So I gave it slightly less than a .001 cut and it had copper showing..WTH? The babbit was only .001 thick!

Now, I only had one used .010 left to try, to have the last bearing I needed. I got really lucky and I got it to .001. Those .010 bearings are meant to be resizable because the babbit layer is very thick, even after the resize.

A friend stopped by so I got him to help lift the crank up and onto the lathe. I have the back gears engaged so it turns slow enough so I can use strips of crocus cloth to polish it. Never tried this before, but it should be a lot easier than rolling it around on a bench.

I might have the motor finished by Monday night, all cleaned, painted, and ready to go back in by Tuesday morning.

I saved so much money on the old bearings that I decided to get a new/old 11" clutch disc made in USA. ...and an old red tipped, side cowl mount antenna that my cowl once had. I need to make the one missing mounting post, but $15 sure beats ebay prices of $150 to $300. The antenna is very odd, it extends to 8 feet, and then being mounted about 2 feet off the ground, means it will be 10 feet high? I think I'll be able to find my car in a parking lot

Pic of the old parts place below. There are two more building not seen in that view, and other buildings elsewhere in town.

 

Well, I lost exactly one week with the engine work, the motor is set to go back into the car in the AM. I only need to install the steering box which will be quick.

Also a pic of the 37 Buick Roadmaster top shifter trans case... , that I put all the 55 Olds Selector transmission innards into.

..and a pic of an ancient Conoco oil filter that came out of this motor...this motor has been unused for 40 plus years I would guess.

I need a rest after the engine is back in. I think I will take Friday off to go to a boneyard...I think I found something for this car

 

looking good frank! wouldn't that babbit be 5 tenths thick if you were going for an extra thou total?? hope you didn't take off twice as much as you meant to.

Pease looks like a spot I could DROOL over forever! love those neat looking buildings

what did you find at the yard?? if you find any early small block stuff let me know. I need an early pcv plug that goes in the road draft tube hole.

 

It was a .002 over bearing, so the cut is .001 per side. That bearing was electroplated, rather than a bonded layer of babbit.

Being on a non-existant budget costs time and effort. Oh well, let's see if it makes it through the cam break-in.

I'll ask around about that piece you need. What years? That yard might have one.

 

ahhh my mistake, thought you were trying to take a .002 bearing to .001 not to standard size! I only mention it because I've had the radius vs diameter brain fart too many times myself

I'm pretty sure it's 63-67 chevy small blocks had the road draft tube hole behind the dizzy setup to take a hose that went to the pcv on the carb. my 283 is full of rubber plugs and drilled and tapped holes to make it fit a late model smog setup. even had a Q-jet with egr on bolted on it.

after the issues you've had with your olds I'm pretty sure I'm gonna open this sucker up and give her a look see to make sure it is what I was told.

 

Kev i think what you mean is that they deleted the road draft tube in 67-68 and used a small tower looking cap and had a 3/8 tube out of it that went to carb, the draft tube was deleted i am pretty sure i have one here i will post pic when i find it.

OK found it i think this is what you want?? Sorry for posting on your thread Frank

 

that's what I need! in 63 chevy removed the draft tube and started using that connector in it's place for pcv hookup, in 68 they went to the valve cover setup.

there are many ways to get around having the "right" piece. I've heard of guys pushing a rubber grommet into the hole or using a freeze plug with a hole drilled in it. I'd rather have the right one though!

I also must apologize for the off topic frank! If we get a chance to meet up I'll owe you a couple beers!