Yeah I think I might be considering that now unfortunately....I'll make the final decision once I get some weight on it with the body to see how the proportions work out. Does anyone have tips on removing a welded in front crossmember?
So I just came up with this over lunch and would like to see if I could get some feedback. I always like to have a plan so if I need to lower it a little maybe this will work. The drawing illustrates removing the center of the cross member and replacing what would be removed with a 2x2x3/16" wall length of square tubing which would run between the frames rails. The tube would be fully welded to the leftover crossmember and the frame rails. I figured this would lower the the car and leave the look of an original crossmember. Crazy? See if the drawing clears any of this up. Bascially I'd be raising the spring into the crossmember and hence lower the car about 2 inches. Has this been done or is there a reason this hasn't been done??
I've done this many times, usually just using the parts of the existing crossmember. You need to have enough room to get the spring in which requires no more than .125 wall tubing. Also make sure you leave enough room for the U bolts to clear the radiator. The stock crossmember appears to be the same so I wouldn't see a problem. I'm working on my Tudor on A frame now. I'm on the other end, I might be too low. Considerably easier to fix!
You may be right about the flat crossmember (and your sketch looks like a good idea). I think I've decided to do the same, so I might have some tubing for you by the time you get to town. BTW, I'm in love with the way the pinch in the frame lines the rails up with the shell. Awesome.
I can remember seeing someone doing this exact same thing. I just can't remember where it was. I'm pretty sure it was a build thread on here.. I don't see why not as long as it's fully welded in and make sure the angle is right for the leaf springs. Go for it! iPhone - TJJ App
Thanks for the input TexasSpeed - I'm back home this weekend and will be sizing up everything to see how it might all pan out. Pretty sure I'm going to go ahead with it, I just need a good weekend's worth of time. I'll keep updates coming...
Here's how I did my front crossmember. It's not exactly like you want to do but the same concept. Like someone said earlier use 1/8" tubing so the spring will fit.
Well thanks to the long weekend I was able to get the body set on the frame for the first time. Its been about 4 years coming. SO far everything lines up alright, but I have a little work to set up the rear just right yet. Can't believe how close the rear of an a frame just clears a T.
I have to give credit to Lowtruck for letting me borrow his wheels and tires to see how its going to really sit. And now for a stab at the chop. This is what I've had in my head for a few years now and I'm still baffled by it actually being a real thing. In the last photo you can see a line above the rear wheel where I'm planning on making a relief in the body and adding a body line similar to a model a or '32 to clear the tires.
Cool car, build it like you want. I like a T unchopped but they look killer chopped. I think it was cool that your grandad got to help thats cool for sure. Keep the pics comeing i realy like how this is going..... I 'll say this theres nothing like building it your self, real real cool ride.
Thanks guys. I know the chop is pretty severe, its something I'll address when I get a little further on but I think its going to be fairly heavy, I just want to avoid any correlation of it looking like or becoming a "pancake car" or R/R...... In the back of my head its my biggest fear, so far I think its going alright....
Start with a 8.5 chop first and see what it would look like. I had a 27 tudor body that I sold to a fellow hamber. I was going to do a 8.5 and see what it looked like. I even made a correct 1/24th scale model using an old AMC kit. I also moved the wheelwells up in the body to match a model A. If you look at a T, the wheelwell opening is really low conmpared to an A. Love the Build so far.
Thanks for the advice - I've been looking at adapting either the model a or '32 wheel well proportions. As soon as I dropped on the body it was obvious something had to happen. There wasn't even an inch between the body and tires.
Well I spent this last week hard at it and have come up with a semi completed front suspension. Here are a few shots of the shock setup and an idea of the motor mount/ engine situation. I'll be relocating the mounts early this next week. I'll update again when I have another mock up. Till then... some updates. I did recently pick up a plasma cutter...and to say the least its been an amazing addition as I think the work reflects its impact. I ended up splitting the boxing plates to locate and mount the engine mounts properly prior to the '38 x-member which is to come this next week. Floating. shock mock up. engine mount mock up. Credit to the Rolling Bones for the engine mount idea! checking proper fit. end of day mock up. I ended up tacking it all in place to check fit with the body next. Might be having to move the motor ahead a bit, but its a start.
Frame looks good! Keep going!! I've stalled out on mine! Might I suggest getting the body mounted to the frame and your seat mounted then figure out where you want the top chopped to. You don't wanna run around with your head stuck out the top!!!
Thanks Chad, I think thats going to be the plan. Pretty much set on the top being one of the last things to be addressed as I think it will rely on everything else coming together before hand. I also have some subtle body modifications in mind which will impact the chop. Believe me I'm thinking this one over....
looking good man! give me a hollar next time your in norfolk/omaha/lincoln and we'll get together and catch up. its been entirely to long!
It's been awhile since the last update, but that doesn't mean nothings been going on. I finally took the plunge and started in on the cross-member and transmission setup. A little while ago I came across a '38 x-member that I wanted to attempt to utilize for stock ford component locations. Plus I wanted to try something a little different at the same time but maintain that traditional look by using all Ford parts. Started out by doing a few repairs to the x-member. Took a stab a reinforcing the bottom side. Thats where the plate comes in.
Next step the stock cross-member had to come out. At this point it was all or nothing... Since it came from a '38 a little modifying was necessary. Before. After. Ended up narrowing the arms and taking out about 2in via a pie-cut. The front only ended up being about 7/8". End result. After a few hours of tweaking it dropped in.
I was pretty lucky this last week as I stumbled across an old set of pedals. Catch was I had to go remove them from the '39. Not easy, but the price was right. Since it was ridiculously hot my friend let me have them no charge! Initial install. More modifying had to happen since I had to pie-cut the front x-member arms. The clutch/brake bracket needed a bolt hole repositioned to clear the floor boards. I'll need to massage the clutch pedal in the end to clear the body but so far it doesn't interfere with either the frame or x-member. A notch was necessary for the brake arm but I'll be welding in a plate to the inside of the clutch/brake mount to reinforce the area where the notch is. As it sits for now. I'm still a rookie at this game, but I think its coming along. If anyone has some insight please enlighten. I haven't seen many model a frames go together like this so I'm somewhat making it all up as I go.
The Jalopy Journal
