One wire alternator vs the 3 wire one

So to sum this all up........

1 wire works and actually has decent availability.
3 wire technically works better and has really good availability.
36-3W is definitely NOT on crack. But judging by the reaction to a joking figure of speech should maybe look into meds.
Zman will continue to apply equal parts sarcasm, knowledge, and common sense. And the fallout will make good reading next time too

good luck Denise

 

i am in FREAKIN love with my ford 1 wire, and i loved my chevy 1 wire as well...

reason I love em so much is that I run higher amp alts just to be sure. 1 wires work better for that... not to mention that I love the simplicity and they are just as easy to get at the parts store as a 3 wire... just simpler and better working for me

 

first off I did not recommend anything, I merely pointed out that 1 wire alternators are plentiful and for the most part stocked by auto parts stores across the nation.

as for making an impression on my forehead, emoticon or not, rethink that.

There was no attack so you guys need to lighten up. Go back and read it. I guess you guys need to get better fitting panties, the ones you have on are way to tight.

My apologies to Denise for this getting off track, but either one will serve you well, and you will have no problems finding either.

 

Something else to think about would be battery drain when parked for short or long periods of time. I have a stock wired '67 Camaro 3 wire alt., stereo, CD changer, clock, TPI computer and can sit for months without draining the battery dead. I have the same exact set up in several rods BUT aftermarket wiring kit and one wire alt. Doesn't take to long siting unused to draw down the battery. I think it was on PowerMasters web site that pointed a finger at the 1 wire as a "possible" culprit .

 

Not sure it is healthy to have a love affair with an inanimate object, but good for you.

I have to disagree that 1 wire are better for high amperage. I spoke at length to a Powermaster rep about this at SEMA one year. He felt from an engineering standpoint the 3 wire are superior and generally offer a more stable charging rate. They make the one wires because the market demands it, not because they are better. Yes the better quality ones work but the inexpensive ones are really pretty crappy.

I have yet to find a "Parts Store"" around here that can even grasp the idea of a one wire. Typical scenario;
"Can I help you?"
"Yes, I need a one wire GM style alternator"
"What year car?"
"1932 Ford Hot Rod"
"My computer doesn't have that"
"Well it doesn't really matter what year car, just a one wire alternator will do"
"Sorry, I can't help you"

 

Not debating which is better. But it seems your issue is with the parts help. Part number 80500 will get you a standard GM 63 amp 1 wire alternator.

 

yeah, part numbers are easy, or just tell the guy you wanna open boxes

no issues

 

I guess it wouldn't be the HAMB without alittle drama thrown in.

I have a part two question for the masses now.
The reason I even had my charging system checked was my new Optima battery (30 days old in Big Olds) is starting to melt alittle on the side and extremly hot to the touch. So hot you can't touch it. The Optima guy said, after testing my charging system where my alternator was charging at 12.6 volts, that the melting is the result of my faulty charging system.

I kept pressing him for reasons why because I've had other charging issues thru the years with regular batteries in place and none of them have ever gotten hot and started to melt but he kept dancing around my questions even when I was pressing him.

Do you guys think the battery is faulty as well?
AND/OR is the faulty alternator the cause of the melting/hot battery?

 

Very, very interesting especially since Dad has a one wire in his '56 Olds. Big Olds can sit all winter and I can start him right up after months. Dad can not do that in his car. Dad was mentioning to me last night that he likes his one wire BUT I bet he doesn't have this little bit of info. I'm going to print him this thread.

Food for thought, thanks.

 

is it hot on positive or neg?

I had a bad ground that caused the neg to smoke and get real hot.

I want ot say that when charging correctly the batt posts should be 14.1 volts or something.

 

Hot on negitive.
Funny you should bring that up because a buddy mechanic just put (40 days ago) another ground from neg to the body. Could this be the issue? If so why?

 

At 12.6 I do think you need a new alternator, unless there are other issues, like too small of a main alternator feed wire - BUT - I would also contact Optima direct and ask about the "Melting" as that ain't right

 

It was the Optima guy (at the Columbus GG event last weekend) that checked my charging system and said his battery is fine and the reason it's hot and melting is because of my faulty alternator. While I agree my alternator needs to be rebuilt/replaced now that still is no reason for a hot/melting battery, in my opinion.

 

Hmmmm... charging at 12.6 and it's the charging systems fault? Mine charges at closer to 14 and my Optima is not melting. If he can't give you a real reason I'd say he's just trying to cover his ass and not blame the battery. I've talked to my Interstate rep about the decline in quality of the Optimas. I personally have not had one fail on me. But I have seen a few fail. Got one here that's all swollen on top. They didn't want to warranty it.

 

Sometimes the guys who work the shows are not, shall I say highly educated in the technical aspects, usually sales guys. I would contact Optima through their web site an talk to a real tech guy

 

The guy who I was dealing with was Jimmy Day who is something like the regional marketing director or something like that. Yep, he could "dance" real well. I wasn't impressed with his answers to my questions. I guess I do need to call and talk to a superior. I'd like to make sure I've got all my information ducks in a row before I make the call.

 

In my case the bad ground caused too much resistance, causing the post to get real hot.

How about having the alt checkt at Autozone or something similar?

 

i have used optima batteries and 1 wire alt. in all my rides for the last 10 or so years. ive never had a issue with one going out. now i have had a few problems with powermaster 1 wires straight out of the box!! i got one at powermaster right now that wasnt charging right out of the box. i have had a optima get the "melting" ring around one of the post, i dont remember what post it was though, i found the terminal to be alittle lose, so i thoght that was the problem? it hasnt gotten any worse,and that was about 2 years ago. i also dont have a problem with my optimas losing starting power with my 1 wire after sitting for a couple weeks. in winter or if i know the car will be sitting for some time ill disconect it.

but with all that said, i think it would be a wise move for you to just get a 3 wire with a national warrenty. seeing as much as you travel and all. if i remember correctly big olds doesnt have a huge amp draw, stereo or other high amp drawing electronics, so why would'nt a stock replacement "chain store" 70 or 80 amp alternator work for you?

 

I've never been too swift on electrical stuff but, my electric motor man told me onece that low voltage would burn up a motor. It stands to reason that low voltage in a charging system could cause heat in the system and maybe even cause the battery to get hot. Get your alternator rebuilt and making 14+ volts and see if the battery still gets hot. I'm betting it wont.

By the way, good for you for supporting your local rebuild shop rather than buying a Mexican reman. from a chain store. If it fails on the road you can get a "new" reman. on the road as easily as you can get a replacement. Good luck.

 

Not sure whether "investors" like Madoff or battery salesmen were garanteed first place in Dante's next level...if your charging system isn't "mis-charging" then the Batt's manufacturing issues are a likely culprit.

 

very important to have the body grounded. Electricity is sneaky, its always looking for a way to make a connection. If it cant get there one way it tries another, and will travel thru a drive shaft, thru transmission, and all bearings inbetween, etc.

 

12.5 volts is what your system should be running at if its working right, as far as blipping the throtle with a one wire there is no need, unless your planing on just letting your car idle till the battery dies, i just start my truck and drive, as soon as you step on the gas it starts charging, if your wired for three wire going to a one wire would just be more work, i love my one wire.

 

take the 3 wire alt apart and rebuild it yourself. it's not that hard

 

Denise, only a couple things cause heat in a battery. Heavy current in, heavy current out, and sketchy connections (internally or the battery cable).

So your alternator is stuck at 12.6V. Which isn't really the way somebody knowledgable will describe it. Because they actually stick on an amperage setting, not a voltage setting. ie the alternator is stuck putting out 40 amps. Depending on demand, the amperage can provide a wide range of voltage.

Knowing the condition of big olds, we can probably rule out a corroded battery cable connection.

Honestly my money's on that battery having a faulty internal connection. My 4x4 buddies have been going thru optimas about 3X faster than traditional wet-cells. We're talking a half dozen different vehicles all having the same issue. Different makes, models, charging systems, and different useage patterns. All the same issue, optimas lasting 9 months.

 

Yeah, I'm sticking with my 3 wire for sure. Now I just have to determine why the battery is melted and whos fault it is. If it's my charing systems fault then I'll buy a new regular battery and call it a day. If it's Optima's faulty battery then I'll take it back and fight them for a replacement.

 

Good point, pulling a used one off another car to continue on a road trip is a factor I had not thought of. Another reason added to the CON list for the 3 wire.

Yep, my pals from Detroit Speed have quit carrying the Optima batteries because of so many issues. Have been hearing about more and more problems lately. I guess I might as well toss this battery and just go with a regular one cuz I'm not sure if I want to put another Optima in even if they will exchange it for me. Last thing I want to do is get stuck on a roadtrip with battery issues.....I've got enough other shit to worry about going wrong.

 

I have a one wire and havent had any problems but when i rewire my car, i may check into a 3 wire. Could i convert mine to 3 wire perhaps? its a 200amp that was built by a local outfit. Never had an issue, always charges at 13.5-14.5 volts.

also, for the troubles with optima batteries, check into oddessy batteries. Out of all my buddies with optimas and others, I am the only one to yet to have a dead battery, and its been 3 years so far, 1750 cranking amps, 4 year replacement warranty.

 

Just as a sanity check, when you take your Alternator off the car to get rebuilt,have them check the alternator before rebuilding; this way you are only fixing one problem at a time and can isolate the alt problem and melting battery. My opinion: NEVER let anyone from Autozone, etc, touch your car...I had a Sears horror story from a time when I was on vacation and needed a tire in an emergency. Good luck, m'dear...


gaspumpchas

"chrome reverse rims and whitewall slicks
and she turns the quarter mile in 106....
door handles are off but you know I'll never miss 'em
we open 'em up with a solenoid system........."

"cherry cherry coupe", Beach boys, 1963

 

Why don't you do a tech thread regarding how to do it, including photos, for all of us to learn from?

 

heres a simple way to check your alternator, start the car and with it running pull the negative cable from the battery, if the engine stays running its ok, if the motor stops its not ok.