I don't know what it SHOULD be running at, but I have a 235 in my 40 Chevy truck. On cold days it's at 160. On warmer days it's about 175. It hasn't been HOT yet but... it shouldn't get over 180... Travis
I don't have a numerical temp gauge in my 54 Chevy with the 235. But I drove it to Viva Las Vegas from Wyoming and the needle on the temp gauge got close to, but never touched the center mark. And this was while ideling in some traffic while the air temp was about 85. I have no idea what temp the thermostat is, or if it even has one, but it is stock because I have not touched it. My anti freeze is not green, it is a nice ****ty brown and rust colored. That is after I drained the system, but didn't flush it, and then added 2 gallons of antifreeze and topped it off with water. I also have a 7 or 8 lbs radiator cap. It might run cooler for me if I flushed it, but **** it, it is only a 235 and will soon get yanked. Geno
If the thermostat's idea of what 180º is is the same as what the temp guage is saying 180º is then that's what it should idle at if everythng else is working correctly. But if the Temp guage reads high or the stat opens late then it could say 190º it's whether it changes drastically or creeps up at speed or in traffic that's important. it shold stay (within a few degrees anyway, like ±10º) at whatever temperature it says it likes most of the time. The temp guage in my Astro Van is wack, always has been I just didn't want the dash squeeks that would prevail after fixing it so I never did. If it goes over 120º I start worrying about it. (I think it's got a bad ground or something, all the guages work only when they feel like it. but it's got that "check engine" light if something's really wrong.) I run a 180º stat in my truck but I drilled a 1/8" hole in it because it was ****ing the top hose flat when it was cold so when the air is cold it will run at 160º but sitting idling or driving town it's at 181º and on the Freeway at 75-80 when it's hot it might creep up to 190º and Maybe go to 210º pulling hills because the timing's retarded 12º from usual when under load. bu that's it. Yea it's not a 235, its a SBC 262" with a 48 Chevy truck radiator converted to pressure, 7 pound cap. But again, the stat or the guage could very easily be off 10º. If it runs there all the time don't worry bout it.
I have no idea temp wise but I have a 160 thermostat in there and it never gets over half way. Gets close if I sit and let it idle for a long time. But doesn't "knock on wood" overheat. Highway and all....
I've had 3 235s in various stages of worn out to rebuilt. None of them ever came to even half way on a non calibrated factory gauge. However the extremely worn out 6 in my '60 wagon's been creeping up all week, but it never got to the hot side at all. I finally checked the coolant and it was rusty as hell. I just got done flushibg the rad and putting in fresh antifreeze. I wish you coulda seen the nasty state of the water in there. I guess I've been lacking in the maintenance department. After letting the car sit and idle foe ten minutes the gauge registers just as before. The car had a 160 thermostat in it before and it actually ran too cold, I replaced it with a 180 about 3 years ago.
I'd leave the Tstat alone. 195 isn't bad and a hotter engine will burn the fuel better, making more power, less emissions and less chance of fouling a plug. It's when you get into the 220's that you oughta be backing outta the throttle. Look into what the current crop of EFI motors run at. I just did a 3 hour tour in my truck, ran 220-230 most of the way. I didn't really care, it needs a new head but I had no trouble other than some ping, mostly 'cuz I screwed with and advanced the timing a touch. Chris
I just drove the '60 to work, everything's hunky dory. I guess I oughta to keep up on this maintenance lark.
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