If they are hydraulic, you can pull them, one-at-a-time, dis***emble them and clean them out. As long as you put them back together properly, and back exactly where they came from, it will be fine. That will only cost time, gaskets, and fluids. This is a common hydraulic lifter. No voodoo magic in there: And yeah, the timing set could have an issue. Those aren't much coin.
This has to do with how much movement You see When you rock the crank nut(balancer) back/forth an watching the rotor, You'll know if You feel play back an forth, an the rotor isn't moving...
I have heard some fairly alarming sounds coming from valvetrain, but yes, if it is more knock, then cracked flexplate*. *I did have one that proved to not be a cracked flexplate, but a cracked convert snout. Zero idea how that became a thing.
Flexplate is fine, checked, no movement whatsoever, flashlight, etc.etc. Converter now very tight. No ticking. Unfortunately its in the guts I think.
Could be build up on top of a piston. Rev the engine a little and slowly put cold water down the carb. It will remove carbon build up. worked for me.
might have thought of a solution--7,500 to see if tach will truly go to 8K. Now, where's that vest, helmet, spare 1/2" steel plate, or maybe that big brick in the yard that would fit the pedal! damm, forgot i'll have to run!
Me and my buddies did that with a 318 when we were like 14, only we used a broom handle on the seat. It did not blow up, it just got hotter and hotter and slower and slower and steamed more and more until it locked up . Those were the days lol
A 318??? I’m not surprised it wouldn’t ****ter. I’m a Chevy guy, but damn, those 318’s are tough. We did the same thing when we were younger, with several different engines and nothing spectacular ever happened. Like you said, they usually just locked up, however, we were laughing so hard, it was still fun.
Used to be tv commercials for STP and some others where they drained the oil, put in some of the product and then ran the thing with no oil pressure. I always wanted to see that with a 5-6K rev of the engine-think it would have been a beautiful thing.
Post #1 says: "have pulled plug wires and isolated it to #4". A lifter noise wouldn't go away when a plug wire is pulled.
No it wouldn’t, also dropping one cylinder wouldn’t have an affect on a thrust bearing I don’t believe. Rod bearing knock won’t go away pulling a plug wire. A wrist pin or maybe piston slap? may go away but not sure. I’ve seen engines worn out and or with broken parts run for quite some time - thousands of miles. Who knows how long it will run? If it was mine and I wasn’t going to tear it down I’d run a heavier oil and see what happens. Dan
heres something to read as I know nothing about gas engines or old cars... but I chased this same type of noise....it was a knock that,,, had many people listen to it and the came up with every idea of what it was.... but heres what it really was.... it was the key that goes on the crank to the balancer,... I had checked to make sure the balancer was tight... but with the belt on and bolt in... kept driving it and the noise seem to come and go at will...how I found it was when I took the front crank bolt out I could feel it move back and forth.... when I pulled the balancer, I could see a grove in the key way .... put a new one in and cured the noise....
Haven't gone back and re-read the whole thread, but a couple of questions. Does engine temperature affect the occurrence of the noise? Engine cold or raised RPM = Higher oil pressure. Engine warm, idling = lower oil pressure. Also, might want to check the valve guides and the valve contact area on the rocker arms for #4. Bring #4 to TDC, ready to fire, take screwdriver, push against the retainer and look for side play at the valve. Check the rocker arm ends for a groove worn by the valve.
again, tks for good replies. Had some time today so I checked the balancer/rotor movement, it had a little (prob. has a single chain with some stretch) but not like a whole tooth or so. Just said to hell with it, took it on the tollway and ran it 3K+ for about 12 miles, turn around and back. Thing ran great (except for a slight miss around 2500 that went away the faster it went, maybe plugs, wires etc.) and had no problems. Put it in garage and let it idle for a couple minutes, didn't hear anything (hood closed though). Had great oil pressure running and idle, perfect 190 temp, no smoke, etc. I can live with that, now if I can find the perfect beer joint off the tollway about 15 miles out one way, I can "fix" it once a week.
Got the fix! --take out hearing aids --tape over all indicators and gages --radio full up to whatever my grandson listens to that I can't stand --add 1 qt. each Marvel Mystery Oil, Seafoam, Li****oly, Rislone, Lucas upper cyl. lube, Techron, STP, etc.etc. Oh, add all to oil- hell, forget oil. --Start, rev engine to 5 grand, add 1 gal. cold water thru carb to break up carbon, or cast iron or whatever. --Smile, open adult beverage, strut around garage saying "I damm well fixed that ****er, didn't I"
There is a nice 327 short block on the wanted adds. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1968-327-short-block.1328531/ Dan
tks, but damm it I sold a solid 327 this last summer thinking it would sit there like forever. When this one craters think i'm going the 350 route since its going in a '69 elco and the 350 was pretty much the standard engine for them. Thought about an LS conversion but too much dinero and the 350 turbo trans has been pro rebuilt and is solid.
My sister purchased a immaculate 70’s Olds, but it had a knock. I pinpointed the noise to timing chain area and suggested to the brother in-law to open it up and take a look. Swing by and borrow my harmonic puller and get to work, I told him. He came up with a different idea. Tried walking out of the mall with a puller shoved in his pants. He fought with security and that added to his sentence. Eight months in the county jail. Dumb ***. Sister needs to move in with me for a couple of months. So I tackled the job on the Olds, removing all the **** to be able to place the puller on said harmonic / vibration thingy. Reached down and it fell off in my hands. NO PULLER REQUIRED. Well there’s the KNOCK. Eight months in the County Jail for being stupid.
I've had a lot of 307 engines --all had a piston slap or a wrist pin knock. tore them all apart but had no bearing wear. OF course there's always that one. if someone has put a 350 cam from an older 350 in it they had a run of bad cams and the lobes would wear down but you should know that by now. Take the oil filter off and cut it apart and look deep in the paper pleats of the filter -- look for metal that will tell you a lot if you know what kind of metal it is aluminum or steel. Aluminum is bearings and some steel is just due to age of mileage on engine.A good mechanic could tell you alot by looking at it. Just my opinion and as you can read everybody's got one.
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