Bought a bone stock deuce sedan and am think about replacing the stock chassis with one from So-Cal. Is that original chassis with a clear****le worth $10k? Just looking for some opinions. Thanks!
Keep the original one under it. Well actually it's all in what you're putting in it. If you are planning on have an engine with 3-4 hundred ponies then maybe that frame should be sold to someone with a flathead so that it can be kept as original as possible. But if you're going flathead which I recommend you do (hehe) then that would only make that car cooler. I would prefer an original chassis under my car but since I plan on throwing a whole bunch of torque at the thing I had Ionia Hot Rods whip me one up. I recommend you take a look at their frames because I don't think anybody makes a nicer looking frame.
Just a simple question. If you have an original chassis with a clear****le to it why would you swap frames and go to the trouble of getting a new****le for the car. If the frame is in that good of shape it seems more prudent to sell off the pieces you don't want and have the frame redone and run the original****le on the car these days. But you will probably get a cash in hand offer (maybe not 10K) from someone before the end of the day on the chassis and****le.
Saw them selling for that 5 years ago that were taken from under a RESTORED car and totally complete. If it's just a chassis- to engine & trans (or even and unrestored engine) it won't be worth that kind of money. If you don't already have a hook up with SO-CAL I can help you- still have connections on getting a deal.
I was thinking that a new frame might be more rigid and drive and handle better with a small block Chevy in it, versus an original one reworked. Just thinking from a driveability stand point. Thanks for the input tho. Always appreciated.
That's a whole nuther debate! It's more about cost and what you are capable of doing. If you are looking to mostly bolt stuff together- new chassis is the way to go. If you are a decent fabricator and the original chassis doesn't need a ton of repair you can put a Chevy in and thoroughly enjoy it.
I think that is going to be the plan. Its bone stock and in great shape so I cant imagine the frame needing a ton of work. Would prefer to keep the car complete but if chassis needs allot of work, is it more fesible to replace it with a new one.
Depends on what you want. SOOOO many factors. Do you want a Chevy in front of a '39 trans and banjo front end- or do you want an Automatic and 9-inch? Early steering or Vega? Dropped front crossmember? The more you add that your chassis doesn't have- the more the new chassis makes sense.
Looking to do a really nice traditional driver. I have a 283/270hp Corvette motor, automatic, dropped I-beam with hair pins or maybe a split bone, 9inch rear with a buggy spring and ladder bar. Thats it really. I want to run 85mph at 180 degrees all day long!
The answer depends on what you consider a chassis. Does it have an original restored V8 engine or a tired 4 cylinder? Does the front and rear end go with it? Does the radiator, firewall, and steering go with it? You get the idea. How about some pictures? After you sell the chassis how are you going to register your car? What engine do you plan to run when you are finished? Charlie Stephens
Chassis includes the motor and*******, front and rear end. A basic rolling chassis with exception of the body. I have another 32****le and I can stamp that VIN on the new chassis.
A friend of mine, happens to be in CO too, is building a 32 roadster on a rolling chassis he bought for $2000 about a year ago. It is all stock, less motor & trans. We all agree that he got a very good deal.
Like I said, unless you are a fabricator- you will be way ahead with a new chassis if that's the set up you want to run.
I can some of the work but not all of the major stuff so I will have to farm that out. I still think keeping the stock chassis is the way to go. I like the fact that I have a complete 32, meaning body and chassis.
You don't need to be a fabricator to put in a chevy & 9". He can completely build what he wants with little more then hand tools these days and a few catalogs. Save your money and use the chassis you have. Use the stock wishbone. Everything you describe is bolt on.
Cutting and welding will be necessary to hang an automatic******* in a stock deuce chassis. It's all do-able, just offering my experience with this.
what were you thinking for an auto?? should be a T5 or some such for a 270hp 283! theres fun to be had winding through them gears!
I agree. My 40 coupe has a stick and I do enjoy shifting that M22, but you dont shift on the highway and I really enjoy hitting the open road and just cruising and a turbo 350 or 400 seems ok.
I used the original frame rails that came under my 32 3W ... because I like having the numbers on the frame that Henry Ford's employees stamped on it ... 78 years ago. I have a fabricated K member ... and I used a 700R4 transmission. The 3W has a 430 HP SBC ... and the boxed, original chassis handles it GREAT. My coupe came with a good NC****le dated in 1951 ... and I like the FACT that the number on the chassis ... has documentation back to 1951. Use the original frame and sell off the stuff you do not need. The body and such will fit your original chassis a LOT better than another frame
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