Projects Our new Project: '36 Ford 5w Coupe Build

Glad you got it resolved - now let's see some pics of your build as you progress!

 

eh there isnt much to share pictures of right now since we havent started welding anything into place. When we do i'll be sure to update

 

A little update:

Still reconstructing the rocker/b pillar area. Everythign is getting body screwed into place for right now. Itll be an easy fix when we're ready to weld everything into place. We dont want to start welding everything into place until we're confident everything is where it should be. If we make any great progress this weekend i will keep everyone updated

As for other news:

We're trying to decide on a color scheme for the '36...already. We have a line on a great deal on paint right now so we need to decide. Body will be one color, wheels and engine will likely be a contrasting color.

Our idea for paint? keep it old school. No bright metallic-type paint.

Where thinking Washington Blue for the body but then again our '50 is pretty much that color.

Any great color suggestions with examples??

 

I know this is the color set for ford 35 but....

Gun metal or greys. But a cream or venetian yellow would be nice too.

 

You have to start somewhere,now that you have the car your halfway there....

 

that is true, very true!! we're pretty adament about accomplishing a serious amount of work over the winter. Hopefully that occurs

Thanks for the color chips! We've thought about a cream but we're in love with the darker colors. The gunmetal would look neat with a bit of metallic in it! Classy but a bit of modern too. Black was an option and still is but we had the thought of not following the crowd

 

What about a cream candy

I'm sure whatever you do it'll be great!!!

 

Thanks Saxon! a pearl cream sure would be something. We were thinking a metallic gunmetal would be pretty slick too. Thanks for posting those color charts! i was browsing various color charts online. We need to hurry up and decide on a color so if anyone has any suggestions or examples of some classy colors that would make this coupe stand out....please share them. For now; im resulting to color chip examples and surfing the hamb for picture references. thanks much

 

One day at a time....

 

yep one day at a time but we have a line on free paint: no matter what we chose so a color must be decided now

 

Just so you know. Soda blasting will take off paint but will not remove rust very well. I would suggest taking it to a knowledgable sandblasting company if you want to get rid of the rust. You won't be happy with the resultls if you soda blast it. Moneys tight and I would hate to have you waste your funds on a process that will give you less than desirable results.

 

Thanks. We have t decided. My dad had a 41 power wagon soda blasted and it came back like new. We shall see

 

s i have a question for all of you who are using EMS replacement patch panels on your '36 coupes. The natural panels have a curve to them to follow the lines of the car. The EMS panels come as flat metal. How are you guys bending your patch panels to the way they are supposed to be? Bending ours to the slight curve its supposed to be is proving to be quite difficult with the body-line bead. We're trying not to put any kinks in the metal but with the strong bead on the metal; it doesnt want to bend and its puttnig slight bumps in the bead even when worked very slowly and easily to prevent any damage. So whats your trick?

 

I used a combination of Lancaster Shrinker, English Wheel and my knee to get the proper curvature-

 

not sure what panels you mean but if you shrink the flange, it will curve the panel. if you don't have a Lancaster you can shrink it by hand tucking and hammering. Hang in there ! Youre not alone I have a top- half of a coupe too lol
and post pics! need motivation!

 

we dont own a shrinker or an english wheel haha so we are attempting to do it by hand. We're referring to the patch panel behind the b pillar. We also noticed that the cowl patch panels also have a slight curve to them on the original metal. We were working on them last night and trying to accomplish a slight curve to them was growing quite frustrating attempting the slightest bend on them. The other patch panels didnt seem that bad to bend. we'll try the knee method.

 

Updates?

 

^^^^^


As for paint choice updates: When the car ever gets to that point the color is likely going to be a very dark, rich, glossy blue with black nailhead engine, black wheels.

OR

A deep, dark, vintagy type red with black wheels, black nailhead engine, black grill.

 

Hey Farmergal and Joe. Congradulations on the "new" car. I can supply you with some pics if you haven't found them already here are some. The car these were made for was a 37 but there's small differences. How they go in is the same. The first two photos are of the floors in my 35 three window.













I still have the patterns here somewhere for the rockers. I can trace them and send copies if needed. I made the floors with a hammer and die that I made for the job. Can be done without a bead roller.

Doug.

 

If these panels are the kind that have a 1" or so bead on the bottom, and also have the raw lower edge going under the car horizontally for an inch? Then, yes you could use tuck shrinking, but it would take quite a few small ones, so it won't get kinks in the face of the bead.

A small shrinker works real nice on these, if there is enough of that lower raw edge to grab with the shrinker. It would be like an L shape panel and you shrink the bottom of the L at the raw cut edge.

I have never tried it, but I wonder if you could heat shrink that edge. Heat it, then quench with wet rag?

Where are you all working on this? I have a shrinker; I'm south of the Eagleville/Mansfield line on 32 near that little breakfast diner.

 

we're on the mansfield/willimantic line by the expressway off route 32. The old Sunny's? ahh i think i know your whereabouts. I drive that way everyday and have seen an old car or two out in your yard Thanks Pensive! Those are very, very helpful to us!

 

I just found your pic of the rear quarter patch panel on post 57 page 3
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1434982&d=1316641127

Anyways, the inward facing lower flange looks very wide where it goes under the car. I don't think a simple edge shrinker will be able to pull a bow in the bead area. Edge shrinkers work best with 1" or 1-1/4" or less on the flange....and with a bead, it is even harder to get it to bow.

EDIT: You should get on Youtube to see if there are some vids of "tuck shrinking". There must be. That process really does work, not hard to learn, and it will work on that wider inward flange.

You can always practice on a scrap piece of 20 or 18, just bend it 90 degrees with the same width flange, and try some tucks to see how it works. Metal is fun, kinda... but it takes a while to figure out what the metal will do, when you do something to it.

 

Glad to hear it. Let me know if you need any other details.

You can stretch the center of the panel by hammering on dolly, which results in a convex panel. It does the same as an english wheel only slower.

Doug.

 

I found this badass tech by our very own TUCK...of course I found it after I rebuilt my cowl. great pics and the patches he used for the inners would work well for the outside if you need the notch part patched . That has a curve too, hell everything on these things is a dadgum curve!
Pensive...you've got mail!
http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=155

 

I've got a question for the 36 coupe owners: Does the lower raw edge of the quarter panel patch in this pic need to be that wide? (The part that tucks horizontal under the body). The 32 patches I used are way too wide and need trimming, and then the edge shrinker can fix it in seconds..
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1434982&d=1316641127

If the guys say it is too wide, and has to be trimmed to 1" or so, I can zip over with the shrinker, if you can cut the tack welds? it would be good if the door can go back on, so that as the panel starts to get a bow going, we can eyeball it from behind or in front of the car. Then the curve will flow with the door bottom curve.

Let me know, you must be less than 5 minutes from here.

 

Im not sure if the lower raw edge is supposed to be that wide. From what was left of the lower portion of the car i believer there is supposed to be a "trough" there. It would build back vertically on the other side and then meet the floors. This is probably the reason why these cars rotted out the way they did; they held dirt and grime in them. I dont know if that is supposed to be that wide but for now its just tack welded there so we have some brainstorming ideas. We have a plasma cutter which makes timming quick, easy, and painless for us.

I will try the youtube suggestion, we've printed out all the pictures from '36 build threads here on the HAMB so we have 2 folders full of reference photos. Our problem is we only have a limited number of metal working tools to work with.

Thanks for the help F&J I'll let you know how it goes with the research and if we need a shrinker i'll be sure to let you know. Thanks for the offer; its very much appreciated!!

 

we also dont have a single stitch of the subrails left so not sure how we are going to go about making those. that could be scary because according to Tuck's thread; there is a curve to them? ah hell....we will figure it out. the more pictures the merry. thanks much to all!

 

If you are stuck and making zero progress, I'd find out from the 35/36 coupe owners how wide that flange can be trimmed back "first". Like right away

I don't trim those flanges with a plasma because it makes a minature hardened edge that the teeth on the shrinker does not like. I just use hand shears, then shrink it lightly the full length of the panel, then keep test fitting it to get the bottom bow to flow with the door.

If you find out that than flange can be trimmed, the shrinker will bow it in a few minutes,,,you and Joe will be shocked, after struggling so long. Is the panel really kinked up bad from hand bending? Pic would help, if you think it's bad.

 

the patch panel you're referring to hasn't really been touch...its just sitting there for reference. so its in A'ok shape.

The cowl patch panels are the ones giving us a hard time.

Ill kee you posted.

 

Well if you can't shape it yourselves, you can make cardboard patterns that fit that other 36 that is close by, then bring the stuff here to use the shrinker.

Get the patterns for front patch and rear patch on one side fitting good at the bead, then flip them over to see if they fit the other side of that car real good.

geez, winter arrived overnight