whats up all....i want to put an overdrive trans in my coupe(700r or 200r), what year trans can i use, lock-up or non lock-up convertor, if i find a truck trans can i ues it???thanks,mike
I think it depends a lot on what you are putting it behind and what car its going in. 200's supposedly are good to around 250-300 hp, any higher and you will want the 700. Demensionally the 200 is the same to the TH350 so depending on your swap it could save some driveshaft work. The 700 is longer and I think wider at the case itself. I'm not a tranny expert by any means, but I think the lock up converter is the only way to go. You can get kits to make them work without the computer controlled stuff. Just me .02 Bill
Mike, I personally prefer the 700R4. It is the easiest to adapt to hot rod applications since the TH350. They can be made to easily handle 450-500 hp. I also would recommend retaining the lock up convertor. We have a way of making the convertor lock up with out using any electronics. DAVE
Either one will require you to take care with the TV cable adjustment. Not too difficult to work out but critical. Go with the lockup converter. The TCI computer elimination kit replaces a 1 wire pressure switch with a 2 wire(non-grounded) and adds an external vacuum switch. The same kit fits either transmission and both pan gaskets are included. I put a 200R4 behind a 250/L6 with a single 1 barrel. Works great ....so far.
You want a 700R4 92 (I think that's right year cutoff) and earlier that has the traditional style hydraulic valve body. After 92 they have the electronic valve body, and the trans is technically called a 4L60E. Looks similar and has many of the internal rotating parts that interchange. The electronic version requires a computer to operate. A 700R4 will handle your 348 without any trouble. I believe the factory torque rating is about 350 ft-lbs, but many modified 700R4's are holding up to about 500 ft-lbs. BTW, the 200R4 is not so bad, that is what the Buick Grand Nationals with the turbo V-6 use, and you know they make some power. Also the 200R4 is a direct bolt-on to the B-O-P bellhousing pattern. Many big block 455's are using 200R4's and holding up after modifications. The early 80's 700R4 were weaker, just get one from a 87-92 and it will be fine. A 2wd truck version is not really any significant differences than the car version. Same dimensions and hooking up to the engine. Use a lock-up converter. I have a 700R4 behind my healthy 454 in my 38 Chevy. I did break one, but so far the second one is holding up OK. If i were really racing and beating on it, i would upgrade to the 4L80E, which is like a OD turbo400. It requires a computer and is much more expensive than the 700R4.
I always pull my 700 cores out of vans. The GM trucks started using the electronic speedometer sensor in 88, but the vans used the normal old cable style for years later. It's not critical, but it does cost money to change the electronic VSS over to the cable speedometer drive setup.
Keep in mind it will be important to have the right gears in the 3rd member if you drop in an OD tranny. I have a 700R, and with 3.25 gears out back it is really cool to run down the Interstate at 70mph+ with the motor barely hitting 1,800rpm, but around town I have to be sure to keep it from going into overdrive or it will about die at anything less than 50mph. Even tho the 1st gear is still low enough to readily spin both rears off the line...that last gear is seriously tall and quite a jump from 3rd. I plan to swap in 3.55 gears when I get the time/money.
The lockup is the only way to go. Avoid the 11" for a v6 buick, they have a higher stall but won't take a beating. If you need a higher stall speed Phoenix Transmission can hook you up as reasonable as anyone. 700R doesn't need a computer.
i was planning on 4:10's, and prolly a 200 4r, just because its the same size as the th-350, i dont race much, so im really not worried about the 200 blowing up.
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