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Overheating FE,,,again

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Beep, May 18, 2010.

  1. frank dog
    Joined: Aug 2, 2006
    Posts: 655

    frank dog
    Member

    Yes. Autozone sell a kit for about $10.00. I didn't mess with radiator neck.It'll work automatically.
     
  2. Thanks. I be at AZ at 9:00 a.m tomorrow morning

    LOL, I built a "one & only" blown and injected 430 CI Lincoln powered AA/Fuel Coupe which everyone said "can't be done". I'll be dammned if this &*^%#@% Ranchero is gonna beat me
     
  3. I have a bigblock chevy in a truck that would run hot on the highway and then would cool down when i got off the highway. What I found was that my shroud was to tight and would not let forced air on the highway pass throught. I redesigned the shroud so that I had about 5 inchs of rad top to bottom free of any obstructions.I also installed a remote trans cooler to keep any added heat from entering my cooling system.Hope this helped out !
     
  4. Truckedup
    Joined: Jul 25, 2006
    Posts: 4,660

    Truckedup
    Member

    I believe some GM vehicles,Vettes I think,had flaps built into the shroud.They would be*****ed shut by the fan at lower speeds.but on the hiway the airflow overpowered the fan and would open them so more air passed through the radiator.
     
  5. madgrinder
    Joined: Feb 5, 2005
    Posts: 323

    madgrinder
    Member


    Why I NEVER tank my engine parts.

    Pressure washer, bore-brushes, and detergent-based degreaser only.
     
  6. plainphilthy
    Joined: Sep 9, 2007
    Posts: 43

    plainphilthy
    Member
    from atlanta ga

    My fe352 was the same way. I switched to electronic ignition, a flowcooler water pump, an electric fan mounted in front of the radiator that is temp controlled and a new overflow tank with a 180 degree thermastat. Now it runs at about 190 degrees constant, even in stop and go traffic.
     
  7. OK guys, I'm back to working on the old Ranchero again after a few months off.

    1) I had the radiator disasembled, tanked and rodded. It was clean as a whistle to start with, but I wanted to absolutely confirm that it could not be the problem. It is a four core large radiator and the guy said that it should cool any 390 engine.

    2) After days of searching, I found a new lower radiator hose that fits and has the spring inside so it can't collapse.

    3) I installed "another" 160 thermostat just to be sure. I drilled three small 1/8 holes at the outer edge to prevent air being trapped at fillup.

    4) This Ranchero has a water/mud splash panel (1/16 steel) that fits on under the grill, from frame rail to frame rail and just below and in front of the radiator. It is supposed to stop water & mud from clogging the radiator fins. I drilled about 20 each 1 1/4 inch holes in it so air can pass through it to the lower portion of the radiator.

    5) I removed the electric fan and put the 7 blade fan with clutch back on it.

    6) I called Edelbrock, I have one of their 600 cfm carbs, to ask about running the vacuum advance on timed-ported or direct manifold vacuum. They said if it has electronic ignition, the cam is mild and with an uato*******, which it does, use the timed port. Mine was on the direct manifold vacuum port. I made the switch.

    I have started it up and it seems ok. It gets to about 180 and holds. But I have not yet driven it on the road and/or in traffic. That will come later.

    As to a shroud, none yet, but I will build one this coming week. Plus I plan on building a small (1 " x 36") air scoop that will fit just under, but behind the grill to scoop and direct air to the lower portion of the radiator through the holes I drilled.

    I will report the progress later.
     

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