Featured Projects Overheating problem 33 chevy

Two PCV valves without atmospheric venting will or can cause additional problems down the road. Running with crankcase at full manifold vacuum may displace things like valve cover, side cover or oil pan gaskets by trying to***** them into the engine. And lip seals like in the timing cover are designed to work a bit better even when there's slight pressure in the crankcase. Under constant high vacuum they may allow unfiltered outside air to be drawn into the insides of the engine.

Though none this will have any effect on overheating.

 

I looked up the part number of the water pump Acdelco 252581 and it says it is a impeller rotation reverse. When I ordered it for a 1968 camero 327. I thought that the reverse rotation was for serpentine belt drive systems. I still have the old water pump, and could look to see if the impellers are different from what I have on it.

 

That would be a good idea to check and certainly cause your issue if it is reversed also maybe even cause the bubbles.

 

Hopefully I should know this morning, I'm pretty sure that's my problem. My next question is with a standard flow pump, should I go with a high volume or regular flow.

When I took my radiator to the local shop here to be worked over, the onwer said that this radiator was one of the best flowing radiator he had worked on in a while, that's why I ask if a highed volume flow would be better.

 

I have removed the one PCV and getting a breather cap to go in its place...now I know

Thanks,

 

Now I'm confused, the old pump looks like the new pump. Could the engine have the wrong pump to start with?
From what I've researched these pumps are a reverse rotation, am I wrong.

 

I think this is correct

 

Since you are running a V belt pulley system, you need a water pump for the V belt system. That would be the old Chevy water pump set up.

If the motor you have originally came with a modern serpentine belt system, the original water pump on your motor would have been a reverse rotation pump, and would be incorrect for the V belt pulley system you are currently using.

Using the pictures Anthony posted (even if the arrows would be incorrect), if you can see which direction your water pump actually turns when the motor cranks over, you should be able to determine if the pump you have is correct or not by the way the vane on the punp would move the water.

Back in the old days, you could order a water pump for a V belt drive system and you would have gotten the water pump you need.

 

Unfortunely this was a basket case, and had to figure out what parts were missing and which ones were correct. I got it right 90% of the time. I did go to the parts store and got what they said was OEM for "68" 327 and that was a v-belt drive. The impeller blades are exacity like what I have and what Anthony pictured, and my pump rotates the same as the crank clockwise. I have the correct pump, I'm going to put it back together and run it when my tags get in and see what it does out on the road and if it does anything different. It still puzzles me about the constant bubbles in the filler neck.

 

Wasn't there also the added confusion of having a reverse rotation pump and some reverse coolant flow engines?

 

I believe they reversed the pump impellers because the serpentine system reversed the direction the pump pulley had to turn, in order to make the serpentine belt system work with the other driven accessories. By simply reversing the direction the water pump turned, the rest of the pulleys could turn the proper direction, then all they needed to do was reverse the pump impeller so the coolant would flow the correct direction inside of the motor. More cost effective then any other way.

 

[QUOTE="ClayMart, post: 15736255,

Gene you are correct, the problem is most so called online experts are miss identifying the impeller blade design. To me that's the confusion part of these water pumps

 

My experience is that 33-35 Chevy's have quirks when it comes to cooling. The grill shell (mainly the insert) is quite far forward of the radiator. Unless well sealed, air passes thru the grill but will go around the radiator.

Force the air to go thru the radiator with shrouding on the sides between the radiator and inside of the shell. The air moving thru the trans cooler and radiator should then be sufficient. Good luck!!

 

I'll look at that area, I do have a 1/4" x 2" flat bar cage that supports the radiator to the frame and the grill shell only has about a finger width between that, so not much air goes thru there. Hopefully my fan shroud draws enough air.

 

I have a 33 chevy standard [grill is narrower than the master by an inch] when I had the mild 283 in it it ran almost too cold. I ran a 192 thermostat .
with the built , de-stroked 327 I found on very hot days in traffic it would creep over 200. I put a smaller water pump pulley on to spin both the fan and pump faster. problem solved. I run a walker brass radiator and no stroud. no room for air to go around the radiator and my standard hood sides have a full complement of louvers.

 

Maybe install the cooler horizontal EG: flat not vertical below the fan and it'll cool fine

 

Your set looks good.
- good brass radiator
- trans cooler somewhere undercar or front of radiator
- good fan and tunnel

You just need to drive and test. right advance (ignition), right coolant flow are important, no aircap there....
I think 200 is not disaster, its OK start to make all right.

409cid didnt like alum. "china" radiators. Walker brass radiator and all problems disappear.
Flathead Ford new pumps are too effective, need to reduce flow.

Of course timing and right fuel "coctail" is important. If engine very "lean", its more warm...

Aulis

 

Ain’t that third hole on the right a very important BYPASS HOLE.The new pump looks to be a clogged up mess. Check your head for the same hole. Old pump looks like third hole is flowing. Something to investigate my friend. My old***** could be wrong.

 

These 2 things are excellent on any cooling issue.

 

Yeah in the pic it does looked clogged, but before I reinstalled the water pump I cleaned all of the ports. I even used a drill to spin the pump to see how much water it displaces.

 

I looked into this, right now I have a crank pully that is 7.300" in diameter and the pump pully is 6.25" in diameter. I couldn't go much smaller on the water pump pully for fear of it rubbing on the water pump. With those dimensions my pump pully is rotating somewhat faster than a 1:1 ratio

 

the zip tie passage to the head , out

 

After seeing that video I went out and removed the pump and that by-pass hole took a whole 6" wire tie, so I guess it's clear. One more item off the list.

 

I finally have a update on the little mouse motor.
First the list of things I corrected with everyones great suggestions and ideas.
1) Verified that the temp gauge was reading correctly. (yes it was)
2) Verified that the thermostat was opening up at the right temp (yes it was)
3) I thought I had a 16psi radiator cap, instead was 13psi. I changed it to 16psi.
4) Moved the transmission cooler to the lowest postion in front of the radiator and grill shell. It only covers the bottom radiator reservior no cooling cores
5) Added a 3/4" lip to the opening of my fan shroud.
6) re-positioned the fan depth within the fan shroud.
7) Verfied that the water pump was the right rotation (And it was)
8) Test the water pump with a drill in a tub of water to see how much flow it had. (it looked good to me)
9) Increased the fuel pressure from 1.5 psi to 5.5 psi. To correct a possible lean fuel mixture.
10) Corrected the ignition timing, it was way to advanced. (not sure if that had anything to do with the overheating, but made it had to start.
11) Verified that the by-pass hole at the water pump block was clear, and it was.
12) Added a radiator over flow catch can (had nothing to do with problem, except
anti-frezze on the floor)
13) Bubbles in the radiator fill neck...still a mistery. It could be that the fill neck is not at the top of the radiator and the top radiator hose is putting fluid on the top of cooling cores and creating air pockets and what I'm seeing is the bubbles from that...sitll not sure, but it sounds good to me.
14) Ran a compression test on all cylinders and all with in specs, so no blown head gasket.

The results:
Ran to the gas station at 65 mph, round trip 16 miles...coolant temp 185 to 190.
Setting in the shop without an external fan****ist and was around 200

I guess it's now runable, Thanks again everyone, now onto the driving bugs that were discovered in those 16 miles.

You all and this web-site is pretty darn cool
Thanks.....

Pic for effect

 

Great news, thanks for the update.

 

COOL!