I'm a decent gas & mig welder, but have never brazed. I have a chopped '48 F1, and the parts were tacked together 20 years ago with mig. After reading on the HAMB that gas was a good alternative for body work, I figured I'd gas the truck back together. I went to my local welding shop (Praxair) and asked what he recommended for filler rod. I walked out with a flux coated all bronze rod (3/32" FC-15). I wasn't aware that I was buying brazing rod (duh) till I got home. I'm useing a Victor with a 00 tip. OK, enough background, here's the questions: 1) Will it be strong enough if done correctly? 2) Any special setting on my regulator/torch? 3) What's the largest gap I can fill (I'm****uming not much)? 4) I'm planning on 'heat - dab the rod - flow - move on' in small sections between the existing tack welds. Is that the way to go? 5) I****ume it has to be really clean. Correct? 6) Am I on the right track? Any tips you'd like to hand out would be great. Thanks, Takcett
#1 Practice on something else first. #2 Get some Copper coated Steel filler rod. Done correctly,Brazing is plenty strong,but prone to corrosion due to the disssimilar metals. #3 Gap filling is a matter of experience. #4 Practice on something else.
In my opinion brazing is for repairing exhaust rustouts on your beater. If you really can gas or Mig weld run back to the supply store and get your money back on the brazing rods. Its NOT what you want for holding the body panels or patch panels of a car together. Filler hates it too! It will cause bubbles to form in your filler work over time if its not cleaned perfectly...and sometimes even if you do clean it perfectly. Your rig deserves better...and I haven't even SEEN your rig!!! Bill
Well damn, there goes my plan to chrome it. Sounds like I got some bad advice at the welding shop. I'll pick up a bundle of 1/8" steel rod and weld the damn thing. The 3/32" I have seems a bit fat for this. When it's hot enough to melt the filler, it has holes. Thanks! Tackett
I agree with Hackerbill. With one exception, Brazing is perfect for building thinwall spaceframe race car chassis. But you do need a special brazing rod for that. And never, ever use brazing for a structual part that will have bending loads on it.
paint and plastic filler don't stay stuck to brass for long, and you can't hammer weld with it which is why I would gas weld anyway. I suppose it could be leaded over and sealed that way but, the only time I really ever braze anything it's for cast iron repair. I do know it's one of the strongest ways to join mild steel. if done correctly it can be just as strong as a fusion weld. the flux coated stuff is the way to go if you're gunna use it, but only on mild steel or iron not chromemoly, chromemoly will crack. make a good fit, with someplace to pile the brass, (you can't make a***** joint) clean the area and get it hot to a dull red and dab it on there, don't get it too hot and use a slightly carbonizing flame. I like a orange flame, not quite sooty. it has it's place but not on my body. Paul
DAMN! Missed it by this >< much! Heheheh How's it goin' Alex! Hey! I said you could use it on thin EXHAUST tube! I was sorta right!!! Bill
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