I bought a torch set from the family of a deceased club member a few years back. Now it's time to buy some new hoses and a much needed rosebud but I'm not sure what cross references to the torch body I have. All the torches are Purox and this is the number off the cutting torch which shows nothing on a Google search, the torch body also has a 33 on it. So would this be the same as a Victor 300 ?
Any good welding supply should be able to help you out. You might consider rebuilding the valve head and replacing all the O rings just for safety...they should have those parts too.
I was trying to order off Amazon and save quite a few bucks over our over priced welding supply outfit.
Don't forget to add the anti flow back devices, your local supplier will know what they are called. They prevent any flame from getting back to the regulators and everything going BOOM. If they are not already on there.
My Victor aircraft set needed some parts, ('O' rings, etc.; my 'mixer' was obsolete, but would you believe I was fortunate enough to find a nice young man with a new-in-box mixer???) He said it was in his top drawer in his bureau, bought it new in '75. (same year I bought my set) When I moved into my new shop, my mixer disappeared...loosened both nuts on the hoses, and ran away. I did go to my welding supply for 'O' rings, suggest you do the same. Don't you know... You're playin' with fire!
Hose shouldn't be an issue as they are pretty standard you just have to figure out what size you have. From the trouble I had with my Harris torch after it sat for a number of years I'd follow their suggestion to freshen up the regulators.
They're called check valve's and they go between the hose and the gage. The acetylene check valve has a cut in it and the oxygen is smooth but they won't interchange. there is a flow direction arrow on them.
The last time I was picking up a tank for the mig I ask about a rosebud but they didn't want to talk about anything other than selling me one of their complete new setups. I did use this setup a couple years ago so it hasn't set dormant for a decade or nothing, I'll just buy the hoses off Amazon and drive a couple towns over to a different supply store. You can see the setup in the background of this photo for what it's worth.
Why don't you call ESAB, they own Purox welding supplies. http://www.esabna.com/us/en/support/contact/index.cfm
Hey buffalo, I have had very good results with Strate welding supply rebuilding my old torches. Al from Dunkirk .
Hoses are pretty much universal and your rose bud does not attach to the butting head, it attaches to the hose.
They have check valves that go on hoses on the torch end and they have them that go on the hoses on the tank end
Check valves at the torch end will also protect your hose. I have seen hoses burst about every foot or so all the way back to the regulator. Bones
Purox and Victor don't cross if memory serves. Might be about the same size BTU wise, but you won't be able to physically put together different tips to different bodies. If you're running a Purox handle, best to get Purox rosebud. There's some off-brand stuff that does cross, but it usually crosses to Victor style, so it probably won't be much help to you. That said, ebay or your local weld shop. Usually the small shops will order you whatever tips you need.
I've heard years ago that every Oxy/Acet. torch fitting was different from manufacturer to manufacturer and almost none of the parts will interchange. I prefer Victor because everybody stocks their parts.
I just picked up the exact Purox handle this week from a neighbor, but mine came with a 5’ whip that is 3/8-24 female to the torch and 9/16-18 male on the other end. I can hook up my present female hose ends (9/16-18) to the whip on the Purox handle, but in your case you need 3/8-24 male (to your hose) x 9/16-18 female adapter fittings to connect to your regulators.
Even though the Purox body and rosebud I have, date back to the 60s, and looks to be about the same size as your torch, the body and rosebud don't look the same as your torch. The torch was a model sold in Canada, and is only marked on the main body. LD08973 W-275 There is a UL sticker on the cutting attachment, but it is worn to the point that there is nothing readable. The numbers on the cutting attachment are: LD09160 CW-275 This would tell me that it is the second set of numbers that you need to find for a cutting attachment. This torch and cutting attachment are surplus to my needs, and I am willing to sell. The only problem is, that I live on the west coast of Canada, so the shipping cost might be significant. If you are interested in the torch, complete body and cutting attachment, but no welding tips, PM me. Bob
To bring this up to date, I found the adapter fittings at AirGas welding shop right in town, all set to go with my current torch heads and the standard hose I had purchased.
Victor welding kits are available in several job related sizes. The mixer on several of these use different welding tips for thicknesses in metal graduated in numbers and ought for smaller tips. The cutting torch also fits on the mixer. As to replacement, as far as I know all of these can be repaired by the factory authorized technicians and specially shops that do this kind of work. I learned to weld correctly on an old set of Smith's at LACC, having been trained already to stick weld. I bought the Victor set I still use in Glendale thirty years ago and other than replacing 'O' rings, I have never had a minutes trouble out of them. Is this one of those owner satisfaction deals? Probably so. I have a larger industrial quality cutting torch with the mixer built in for thicker metal that slices 1/2" stuff like a knife. If you buy something that can be repaired, the old cowboy in me wonders howcome you need a new one when it's cheaper to just get it fixed and get back to work. Unless you thought a cheap one (of which there are a lot of made in China crap out. there) would do. Purox is supposed to be a good enough brand a man could get it fixed like new, unless you been using it for a hammer to separate cuts like I've seen some numbnuts do. That is like hammering nails with a pocket watch. Sooner or later it's going to break the good stuff inside. Otherwise the quality products are not from the throwaway culture that has replaced quality with quantity. Except, of course, for the swap meet, low buck offshore crap. If I missed answering at least part of your question, pardon me for butting in.
right about using as a hammer...but equally right when you say how few parts are inside to even go bad!-they're pretty basic!!...
I started using oxygen-acetylene torches in the very early '60's with just random pick up training from various sources and have had much more formal instruction in the service and on the job over the years since. Latest (October 2018) issue of "Speedway Illustrated" has an excellent article on cutting torches and their safe use starting on page 78 written by Dan Anderson. This is the most concise, easy to comprehend, factual, no BS, no drama included information that I have ever seen or heard to date. I haven't seen the magazine on our local news stands, I subscribe. Grassroots circle track based, a buddy into roundy 'round might have it. Any one having issues using cutting torches would do well to seek out the issue for a read. Ed
There are a bazillion configurations. Cozying to your local supplier will pay dividends. Sent from my XT1710-02 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A special cutting tip I found on EBay was said to be "Bargain...Last one!" at $45.00. I 'watched' it in my cart... Stopped by my Airco dealer, mentioned this tip...my counterman walked to his bins, same tip: $13.50. New Victor, I grabbed it.
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