P & G Valve Gapper

Cool, thanks weathrmn! Looks like I need to get the 111 with the 1b barrel or find the 300. If you find your instructions in the box and can scan them, I'm sure they would be helpful to others! Also, if mine's for FEs, then I can print them and put it with it. If I decide to sell it sometime in the future, they will come in handy for the next guy. My dad taught me to adjust them with a feeler and everything seems fine; but hey, if there is a way to be precise, seems like the way to go.

 

Mines a model 300 that came from Crane Cams dyno room that I picked up at the bankruptcy auction. Haven't had a chance to play with it yet but now I have the instructions too. Thanks!

Has the initials CB engraved on it. Wonder who that was.

 

Yes, there's an advantage for fleet owners and worn-out rockers. How many racers are going to run worn-out junk?

The link to the instructions says use the P&G with the engine running. Probably theoretically possible, but I wonder if the dial indicator would survive very long. I know I never used mine on a running engine.

I've still got a SBF base around somewhere. IIRC, there was a little cable plunger, like a camera shutter release for picking up the rocker arm against the spring loaded fingers on the base. Those were too weak for the tool box and broke about every third engine.

This P&G Valve Gapper story is straight from Ed Iskenderian's mouth to my ear. When P&G was trying to get it out into the marketplace, they came to Isky to get it in his catalog. They asked to do a demo on an engine on Isky's dyno. Bones Balogh had been testing a SBC and had a chart of what it was making. P&G re-set the valve clearance to a gnat's ass and they ran it again; basically no change in horsepower. Ed then told Bones, "Take a feeler gauge, make one valve .002" looser, the next .002" tighter all the way down and back." They ran it again, basically no change in horsepower. Ed didn't put the P&G in his catalog.

jack vines

 

In case anyone is wondering, the 111 Series 2 is the correct valve gapper for the Y blocks. I picked one up at a decent price. No instructions but Gil Baumgartner's T-Bird page linked earlier page explains it.

Once you mess around with it a little bit it will make sense. It's designed or can be used on an idling engine. Been using the remote starter and cranking the engine over just to see how close I had the valves using a feeler gauge.

So far they are all consistently about .023", spec is .019" cold, .018" hot. Not a big deal but the lash should be closer to spec and consistent across all cylinders when done. Nicely made tool, they were about $45 in 1961