Paging all chassis gurus, need split bone pointers

I didn't read everything....

Here's how I mounted some split bones.
Into the side rail of a boxed frame.
Tapered bung welded to outside rail, bigger tube to access the nut..
(cotter pins get tricky)kinda like the game operation.

SB forged deep drop arms # 1109 will clear your wishbones.Going underneath.

 

***uming you have room for the spring to flex, I would leave the crossmember alone out at the rails and cut about 8 inches out of the center of the crossmember leaving the vertical wall sections in tact (front and rear) and add a new fabricated piece of similar wall steel tube to the top, finessed (slight wedge) to take out some of the caster. You could use it as a way to help lower the front more if desired, if not, just modify the very center part of the crossmember to give you your reduced caster angle.

That's what I'd do, but I'm NO ch***is guru!!

 

Look out... I'm everywhere!

 

Boy! You guys get a little wiley when I check out to work for a few hours.

I found the parts I need to put the bung in a tube through the rail, so that's on the agenda this week. The bones give me just what I want as is, so now I just need to manage the spring seat angle. It shouldn't be any trouble to rotate the cross member a few degrees in the center.

Vaphead, thanks for the lead on steering arms. I'll give Eric a shout as soon as the budget recovers from my vacation.

 

Please show us the outcome

 

Will do. I dug up some 1 5/8 tubing last night with 1.25 i.d. that should do the trick for the bungs in the rails.
I have a side job going to install a 3-link suspension in an old Opel GT. If i can get it done before Friday, I'll jump on this. Vacation is over and I'm flying back to Amsterdam Saturday, so it is crunch time.

Thanks again everyone.

 

OK, first issue resolved here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3081304#post3081304

The spring perch is next. Gimme a couple of weeks. Damned day job!

 

Scotty---I haven't been on the board for a long time man, busy with other **** these days. To do what you want to do--weld a pipe sleeve into the frame at the desired location. Make up a peice of 1/2" or 5/8" thick plate that will just fit into the end of the pipe spacer and weld it into the end of the pipe that is closest to the outside of the framerail. Drill a hole through the plate in the center and ream it with a tapered reamer to match the tie rod end. Put the nut onto the threaded end of the tierod THROUGH THE OPEN END OF THE PIPE FROM THE INSIDE!!!--The pipe will have to be large enough inside diameter to allow a socket to reach inside it to tighten the nut. If ya do this right, nothing will be visible from the outside of the frame.---Brian----ah ****---didn't read page #2---