Paint gurus--I would love your opinions

I hate to start yet another paint thread, but I don't want to hijack someone else's. I have read at least 30 threads on here regarding the best paint products and sequences, plus I have been talking to some bodywork guys and the local PPG rep, so I welcome any input.

I have a '54 Cadillac that is sanded down to the metal and although there are a few small spots where the metal has rusted through, the vast majority was surface rust that has been ground out and smoothed. I would love a satin black finish (not quite flat black), and am strongly considering Dupont Hot Rod Black. Working from the metal up, here's a summary of what I've been told:

1. SEM's Rust Mort to neutralize the rust areas
2. (3) coats DP epoxy primer, mixed 2:1, over the entire car, sanded down where filler will go
3. Evercoat 106 Rage filler for any rust spots or dents too small for a welded patch panel
4. K36 high-build urethane primer
5. Not sure about the final paint yet--single stage, base/clear, etc.

I've long enjoyed restoring old cars but this is my first time painting one, so I'm a bit overwhelmed with the various opinions and products. Someone made a good point in a thread on here that he would do a gloss paint job if he had to do it over again due to the better resale value of the car, but the truth is that my brother and I can probably pull off a satin paint job on our own (he's got pretty good experience), whereas I would need someone to do a gloss job for me. Plus, I really do prefer the satin look.

What do you guys think about my method? Thanks for any help--

 

I'm not a big K36 fan,PPG has a primer which is more solids based and has better holdout characteristics(won't shrink as bad),the number is DPS3055.Other than that you should be okay.

 

I would have a couple problems with your choices. I am one of those guys who does not like to put a "band-aid" approach to rust removal on the outside of cars (under paint). I prefer to remove the rust as much as possible. Spot blasting, acid scrub, oxygen removing chemicals, whatever it takes. Converters are not a quality way to go.
Once the rust is completely removed, epoxy primer. Use one that you can use body filler under or over it. I prefer House of Kolor. (sorry, was never a big user of PPG products..I'm sure they're good, just never had a lot of experience with them)
Body filler, any major brand works well. Unless you're working over a touchy substrate, I don't buy the real expensive stuff. Dynalite works for me!
I am not sure of what you mean when you say "Evercoat 106 Rage filler for any rust spots or dents too small for a welded patch panel". For rust "pits" it's OK to use filler, but not for rusted through holes, no matter how small they are!
I use epoxy instead of high build all the way up to final paint. Just my way of doing things.
As for paint, use a real paint, as you mentioned, Hot Rod black works, but is expensive! About $90 for a quart of paint, with hardener! The final finish is a bit shinier than I liked on my 51 F-1, but the next time, I may add a bit of extra flattening agent to it.
A better "low buck" alternative is the "flatz'" paint from the internet, or just add flattener to black Centari (acrylic enamel). Use hardener with it, if you plan of topcoating it with some other paint later. There used to be other options available, like R-M underhood black, but I think most were lacquer based, and may not be available. Eastwood still has a nice underhood black available in quarts, and is lacquer based. Reasonable price. Personally, I'd stay away from any synthetic enamel (like Blitz Black), or use of an enamel without a hardener.
If you plan on putting nice finish paint over it eventually, be sure you use a paint now that will be compatible with whatever you use later. That is, if you put flattened Centari on it now, you will be limited to using Centari later, good for solid colors, but not metallics, pearls, or custom colors (urethanes).
Urethanes don't particularly like to go over lacquer, but lacquer isn't real hard to sand off completely. If you want to use modern BC/CC or single stare uros, use a urethane now.

 

You would probably be better off spraying the gloss paint if your going to do it yourself only because you can cut and buff it , this will allow you to sand any runs dirt or other problems out. With the flat or satin finish you get what you get. Pat.

 

Thanks everyone for the input--when you've spent months of greasy work getting all of the mechanicals right, you don't want to go and screw up the part everyone sees.

 

Lets see some pics of the progress so far

 

Hoboy, that Caddy looks great--and since you asked, here are a couple of progress pics. I have just replaced the rear window and am waiting on a salvaged front fender from Arizona since battery acid ate mine up.

 

You don't really want my opinion.

 

(QUOTE-chopolds) "Once the rust is completely removed, epoxy primer. Use one that you can use body filler under or over it. I prefer House of Kolor. (sorry, was never a big user of PPG products..I'm sure they're good, just never had a lot of experience with them)"

This is sooo well put and often, sooo well missed. I agree with the procedure chopolds layed out. HOK has a very good high solids epoxy primer. PPG's DP primers do not have the solids needed for a foundation primer/surfacer. You also need to remove the rust chemically, first, to be able to have the primer do it's job of sealing and protecting, not just covering up. Epoxy DOES NOT nuetralize rust.
After removing the rust, the DP primer, followed by K36, will give you a good foundation.

There are other systems as good or better in varying price ranges. I've used "Utech", Transtar" "Sherwin Williams" "Sikkens" "Dupont" "PPG" and some others over the years.
They all have good, better, and best systems. My favorite (for rusty old cars) is sandblasted steel, DA'd with 180#, self etching primer followed by a good quality 2 part urethane primer/surfacer (wet on wet).

The best way to prep rusty steel (old cars), is to sandblast/sand to remove heavy surface rust, then scrub and wash with (phosphoric acid) metal prep, followed by a phosphate conversion coating. This is a lot of work but it duplicates the way metal panels were prepared at the factory before priming. This gives the steel a corrosion resistant phosphate coating ready for primer. If you use this system do NOT use an etching primer, use a good quality direct to metal primer, preferably 2 part epoxy, urethane, or comparable system.

overspray