Hey Im getting ready to paint my 35 and I was wondering what the best process would be. my dad is going to be painting it and he hasn't painted since 89 and we want to make sure that we are going to be coating it the best. back when he originally did it they told him to use an epoxy sealer first, and then do the body, or bondo work if needed, then shoot the primer block it and then shoot the paint. we were looking for an epoxy sealer, and one guy told us to use the matrix systems epoxy primer, and then another guy told us to use evercoat primer filler and that it works just as well as a the epoxy sealer and we can do bondo over top if that's what we want to do but we don't have to we can put the bondo down before the sealer. so my questions are has anyone worked with these primers and which one is better? and what is the best process to painting the car?
Find a local carquest and buy Dupont products. They're quality and will do a nice job for you. PPG is also good.
Answers first. What is the start point? Bare steel, primer, old paint and which type of each product ? What color and type of finish do you want ? Price issues? Dupont is now Axalta and some products are no longer available.
we are going to use ppg paint starting with bare steel. the primer that the ppg guy gave me was evercoat primer filler the cab is going to be Laguna blue and the fender wells are going to be a midnight blue what do you mean by finish? I am on a budget the ppg guy said that we could get everything we need for about 600.00
Type of finish-----acrylic lacquer, acrylic enamel, acrylic urethane, polyurethane, clear coat etc. A lot of painters will probably suggest epoxy primer on the bare steel followed by a primer filler for block sanding. The advise I give for the use of primer filler is to forget the word "filler" in it's description. "Filler" implies that it can be sprayed to a heavy thickness, which it can, but it can and will crack if abused. Better to use plastic filler for "filler" if needed.
The epoxy you start with is a primer and not a sealer. Best thing to use on bare metal and then put any bondo over it. The only evercoat primer filler product I'm familiar with is a sprayable bondo. Definitely not the thing to start with on bare metal. If you're on a budget then the first thing to do is stay away from anything from PPG or DuPont (Axalta). Everything you need to go from bare metal to a finished job in 2 colors ain't happening for 600 bucks from PPG unless they sell you house paint.
Which Evercoat primer did they give you? The 4:1 primers like Superbuild and Finishsand are a epoxy polyester hybrid and can be sprayed direct to metal. With that being said if the project is going to sit for a long period of time without a top coat as you work on it or you are in a humid area it is best to put an epoxy underneath. You have to pile high build on pretty thick to get it to crack. We sell a ton of it up here and in 12 years I have had ZERO complaints about cracking high build primer.
why stay away from DuPont and ppg if im on a budget? I was looking at spending about 800 to 900 on paint and supplies.
I want to say that they gave me the finish sand primer its probably going to sit for a couple weeks while im prepping for the final paint job. im in az so there isn't a whole lot of humidity here but I do want to get a sealer on it to protect it just in case
Who on this earth recommended using acrylic enamel and clear? If you're going to clear it then start with urethane base. You can buy base from Wanda, an excellent product from Akzo Nobel, for less money than you'd spend on acrylic enamel from PPG. The Wanda base with SPI universal clear will give you a superior job for half the money, or less, as compared to PPG.
To get any feedback on what you already have you need to give us specific product names and who manufactured the product. Googling "finish sand" gives a polyester primer from Evercoat. All polyester primers are essentially sprayable bondo.
im not at home and I don't remember which one it was but those were the 2 that the guy was talking about and I bought the one that you could use as a sealer and potentially as a build primer the other one the guy said you could use for that but it was harder to work with
what I have right now Is evercoat 4:1 primer its either the finish sand or the super build those were the only 2 that he recommended as being good for what we are doing. im not at home right now but I can post that later. I picked that one up last Friday a while back my dad was told to use the matrix systems urethane primer and he picked that one up but not sure which would be better I also picked up the evercoat long strand kitty hair with harder for the body work after the sealer is put on
Your best bet is always to put an epoxy down first. Can it be done in other ways and have success, yes, I see it at shops all the time but the safest way is epoxy. I would return the Kitty Hair and get a good quality filler (try Evercoats Rage Ultra if they have it or Rage Gold if they don't) as unless you have some major problems Kitty Hair is not what you want to do body work with. As for the Evercoat primer both do have an epoxy in them but they also have talc so they will absorb moisture if left for longer periods of time. Again the safest bet is to use an epoxy first. If you decide to go with an epoxy and you have the Finishsand I would take it back and get the Superbuild. It uses the same hardener it just has a way better build characteristic to it. I believe the Matrix urethane primers recommend an epoxy under them as well. Body work*****s and is time consuming there is no point in trying to save a few bucks to have it come back and bite you in the****. The other nice thing about Epoxy and the Superbuild over urethanes is they don't have ISO cyanate's in them so they are safer to use.
Anything beyond the makers recommended mil thickness is at risk. Leave some in the bottom of a can for a while and watch what happens. It's a fine product when used correctly.
PPG for 600 from metal to clear, fat chance! I'm using mostly budget branded stuff and have over 600 in my paint job. That's etch, poly primer, primer, single stage for the body and color and clear for the interior.
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