I have a few questions: first what primer is actually black? The last time I bought black primer to run for a short time , was actually dark grey. I really want back, this is to cover up the body work on a chop on a black car. Paint will come later this summer. second, is blitz black a satin or flat black? and can it withstand the elements? any help would be apreciated. thanks, jeff
I bought some etching primer the other day...it was black......looks real nice when layed down and tough too.....I think it was made by NASON.......
sikenns has a great primer called colur build it is a high fill and easy to sand but very costly. you can make any color you want with it. the black is really black but when it is sanded it becomes more of a dark dark grey.
Is Nason a PPG product? And is an etching primer good for high build applications. There is a little body filler in the area to be primed. I guess that it doesnt matter if the primer is a high build. Just looking for a 'cover up' primer. This car has to be cruised and we wanted it to be dressed in its best black. Sikkens sounds great till you get to the cost. I dont have any Sikkens products, so I would have to buy it all - reducers and hardners. I really appreciate the help. I like real world guidence . Sometimes the sales reps just say what you want here.
I've got the sikkens on my "A". You get what you pay for. The sikkens will go farther in the "fill/build" than most others. If you need it for a cover-up type primer that you can sand and reprime later, you can use the color build black and the sealer hardner (there are 2 hardners for color build primer-sealer/primer) and add reducer. This will give you a satin/flat black tone that you can scuff and put fill primer on later. If you mix it 1 part primer to 1/2 part (sealer) hardner to 1/2 (or a little more) reducer, then 1 quart of primer will give you 2 quarts or a little more of sprayable product. This can also be put wet-on-wet over most good etch primers. Put on at least 2 or 3 coats for some protection from the elements. 2 coats of this in the sealer form would be comparable to between 4-6 coats of DP90 in film thickness. I'm guessing that 4-6 coats of DP90 will cost pretty close to what 2-3 coats of the sikkens in sealer mode will run. Don't use DP90 over an etch primer-they are not chemically compatible. overspray
Nason, is a low end brand of Dupont so any Dupont jobber should have it. Etching primer is made to be applied at .5 to .75 mil thickness and will not do any filling at all. Primer fillers are generally in the 2-5 mil range.
Sounds like that first part was well covered, but here's my two cents. If your trying to save money I would just use blitz black, it's cheap and so far I haven't seen any problem shooting other paint over it after sanding, bodywork, and priming, maybe someone else has input on this? It looks satin to me and alot nicer than any flat black I've seen, sure looks alot better than DP and seems to hold up better. But a PPG guy told me that you can put filler and paint right over the DP without sanding it even if it's set for months, I've never tried it and I don't know if it's true.
Scott, I appreciate the offer , but I will decline. I think we will see primer this weekend. Can anyone help me on the blitz black, what is it? I went to TSC and they have an implement enamel, it is called 'low gloss black'. Is that what I am looking for?
Get it down to bare metal & use the DP90 that someone suggested (it's Dittzler/PPG's epoxy). then full it with a good brand name bondo - it sticks better to the epoxy than to bare metal (feathers better too). Then prime it again with the DP. Later when you get back to work on it sand it & use a high-build on it wherever you need to do blocking. seal it wit epoxy again before shooting paint. The epoxy is a little expensive but it's money well spent! The epoxy is not that hard to watersand after it's dried a week or two. You can prime/paint over it within a week without sanding. FYI I've been building custom cars for 30+ years... BTW any satin or especially flat paint will not hold up to the elements as well as gloss will. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!
Sikkens has a cheap(er) line called Lesanol. I think the big difference is in the warranty and tech support- important to body shops but probably not to the home builder. There are some high fill, sandable, self etching primers out there, kind of a one step product but the ones I've used were green or yellow. Maaco's shoot a lot of Nason, for what thats worth. I know you can't get it off the booth fan without a grinder or sandblaster.
Etching Primer should only be used on top of bare metal. Its a first step primer. then you would spray DP90 over that Is this something thats going to be painted some day or are you just throwing on a coat of FLAT BLACK? Tuck
Don't forget, most primers are not waterproof...your bare body will rust under the primer if it gets rained on a lot or if you wash it a lot or if it sits outside a lot (it's called condensation). You'd be better off with a brand that is waterprooof...not water resistant. If you run DP90, it's going to chalk up on you after a few months and turn a ****ty gray, then you're going to have to do it again...providing you want that look...and it requires sanding before you shoot it again. R-
Hey tuck this is going to get painted soon, it just needs to look presentable in about two weeks. The car is black originally and we just need to cover up the chopped top.
Blitz Black is an alkyd based synthetic enamel. It could be sensitive to the strong solvents used in urethanes, acrylic enamels and lacquers which can make it wrinkle or lift should you put these products on top. Try to plan your system if you are going to continue the work later to avoid having to sand it all off to start over. In an effort to save my typing "finger", check on my Tech post "Bondo 101" for some info on primers and body fillers. Good luck. overspray
For this reason I think the epoxy is the way to go. It will hold up (protect the metal) better than most (all other?) primers in the weather, & you can water sand it & put anything you want over it when the time comes to finish the work. BTW no need for an etching primer if shooting epoxy over clean dry metal. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!
The Jalopy Journal
