paint sealer question

After I prime and get ready to shoot sealer and have done my 400 paper if I hit base in a couple spots can I just shoot sealer on it or do I have to redo primer,Thanks

 

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no yes sealer over will be ok

 

I'm not sure exactly what your asking.

 

sorry ok i see/ get what hes saying now ...

 

I think what he's asking is this...

If he sands through the primer during the final sanding process and exposes some substrate...bare metal or filler... Can he just spray the sealer over the whole thing without re-priming and sanding the bare spots.

If that's the question...the answer is yes....as long as you haven't exposed so much substrate that you take away the benefit of having primed and blocked it in the first place...

In other words.... A few A"shadows" and "light spots" won't matter. Serious exposure of the substrate should be primed again.

Post some pictures if that's not a sufficient answer..

 

Here is a related question I'd like to ask. If you kill yourself to block sand primer and everything is dead smooth are you going to paint over the unsanded sealer if it has orange peal? Will that telagraph through to the paint surface? I've seen finished paint that was blocked/wetsanded and buffed, but you could see orange peal UNDER the the paint if you looked at the right angle. Bob

 

just what 37 kid says. for that reason i dont use sealer.if it dont lay flat u cant wet sand it and the op telegraphs thru the topcoat. i wetsand primer 400-600 thenshoot topcoat.

 

I use one wet coat of sealer primer right before laying down the first color coat whether I'm spraying base/clear or a single stage urethane. This will hide a breakthrough if you should hit bare metal, filler, or lead when doing a final blocking with 320 or even 600 wet. The sealer will also fill the 320, 400 or 600 paper scratches for a better finish.


Another plus is that you can get the sealer mixed to any color you want. Sometimes I'll even have it mixed to match the color I'm spraying and I can get away with just a couple coats of color on the jambs and inside the trunk to save some material.

If you can't lay the sealer down nice your not going to be able to lay down the paint either
Hope this info helps

 

Just did my 32 last week

Final blocked with 320 paper. Sealed with red primer sealer over the grey. Maroon single stage paint over the sealer. Click on the pics








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Thanks I just hit a couple little places like on lips on frt fender.I put sealer on and then flash for 20 minutes then base coat then clear.Wish they still used old school laquer (spell)Dang this new stuff.

 

Would somebody school me on the diffence between sealer and primer??

 

Just use a good combination primer/sealer and be done with it. Of course they don't build as well as regular primers, they lay out very slick like a sealer.

 

I use sealer as well. Just for those reasons listed above. If you go through a little in a few spots and don't want to seal the whole car, just spray sealer of the same tint of your primer ( no shadows or color changes possible that way) over those question able areas. For a decent paint job, we spray and block, spray and block and a 3rd time if it is a show car or high end paint job. Then we spray sealer. If just a decent paint job, we then spray the base and clear. If a high end job, we spray a few coats on, then sand with 600 and 800. Then base and clear.

 

Choptvan, you are sanding sealer with 600-800 correct? In my mind if the primer and or sealer is PERFECT and smooth the paint will look perfect after it is wet sanded and buffed. Bob

 

The primer is meant to prepare the surface. A sealer is used as a barrier coat between the primer and the color coat. It adds a layer of protection, and "encapsulates" the repair area. When cured, the sealer also prevents any solvents in the color coat from penetrating and reacting with anything beneath it. When the sealer is tinted to a color close to the color coat, it also helps create a uniform base, and can reduce the amount of color needed to achieve hiding of the primer or OE finish beneath.

 

Sure can be smooth. If you are REALLY good at spraying it and get it perfect. But even then I notice a bit of orange peel here and there. And for a PERFECT show ca paint job, that doesn't cut it. For me anyway.

 

I agree. trying to achieve that look I seal, then bc/cc two coats of clear. block with 600 then 800 on an interface pad then wet coat of base and a drop coat, three coats of clear. leaves a great surface under the base and cuts the nibs down to nill.