Yes! It works great and removes paint and not metal. Just keep it moving so you don't build heat in 1 spot and warp the metal.
The surface conditioning tool from Harbor Freight as well as Eastwood, work very well. It's especially well suited for removing lots of material from flat panels and leaves a clean substrate for priming. Where these tools lack is when metal is pockmarked or where you need to get into smaller areas or grooves. Then you're going to be using either a wire brush or other mens of paint removal, or best yet, abrasive blasting. But the SCT can significantly cut down on the amount of blasting you'd need to do.
It's a great tool. I had the original SCT tool several years ago, but the abrasive wheel attachments were very expensive and hard to find. A couple of years ago I picked up the HF version and it's been a game changer in the garage.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...r-would-i-be-better-with-a-da-sander.1334796/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/surface-conditioning-tool.1214980/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/are-these-worth-a-crap-strippers-inside.1285245/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/want-to-buy-a-new-bodyworking-tool.1238666/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/contour-sct-from-eastwood.1193516/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...hink-about-the-eastwood-contour-sct®.1282319/ You can take a look at what others have said and over time. Hope this helps.
Looks great, Ken What should be used to protect the bare metal if it's going to be a while before it gets prmed and painted?
All of us are bound by time/money. I'd say to plan ahead and strip only when you can turn around and protect the original steel and all your hard work. Don't allow "going to be a while" in the middle.
The body work will be done by others and their timeline is unknown right now. Can't even get an idea when it can go in. But, I would like to get some of this paint off while I can. What about regular primer in aerosol?
Ask them! A bunch a goofs online aren't going to do the prep 'n paint! I'd work on everything BUT that. Get a solid timeline before you start. If you've read about body shop jail, you know the word solid is doing the heavy lifting in that sentence. If it's driving you nutz, strip the jambs. They are hidden and require a ton of finger work, not power tools. If you goof, it's not disaster!
To protect bare metal use OSPHO or a similar product and should be good for 5 to 7 days depending on humidity. I’ve heard discussions on compatibility issues with paint but I’ve never had a problem.
Bought one to strip my '53 F100. Works great! Time will tell how long it will last, but so far, so good.
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