I ended up buffing the car. the paint came out much better than I expected and I'll probably buy a touch up kit for some of the worse spots. I also went out and bought a motor. I bought an amc 232 out of a 69' american which I'm told should bolt to the factory bell. I'm planning on rebuilding the motor at school and will probably work on the brakes so I can flat-tow it there for installation. BTW thank you for all the suggestions and knowledge it is much appreciated.
Here's what you need to do to put a 69 232 in place of your 195.6: https://theamcforum.com/forum/196-swap-for-232_topic83286.html As far as paint... touch-ups rarely look good. Right now you have old faded paint. Any new touch-up mixed the correct color will be a bit brighter. You can get paint mixed to match what's on the car, but then you need to paint the entire panel or above/below a "natural" parting line. For example that spot on the right fender just above the wheel. To properly fix that you need to paint the fender below the chrome strip. The strip doesn't go all the way to the headlight, but you can see the sharp line between the tip of the chrome and the headlight. Paint below that line. If you don't mind the patina look just get some matte clear in a spray can and spray over any spots you don't want to rust. Also check the cheap paint shops in the area. Maaco and Econo-Paint are around here. I've had cars painted by them several times over the years with good results. The key to any paint job is prep! I took everything I could off the cars myself then wet sanded after doing any body work myself. They will do body work and a little more prep, but at an added cost. If it's something you can't do or aren't comfortable doing let them do it, but still o as much prep as you can. I've found that the easier you make it for them and the more work you do to get it ready the better they tend to do the work. I even had one shop call me and tell me there were a few scratches showing through and they wanted to keep it another week and put a second coat of paint on. I asked how much and they said no extra charge, it would be good advertising for them and that I'd done so much work to make the job easy for them they wanted it to look great.
The paint looks much better............ but the grass is much longer, and the lawn tractor has not moved!!! We can see where your priorities lie.
Looks great, like an honest survivor. I wouldn't worry about touch-up. Just keep wax on it, and it won't get worse. Focus on installing your newly acquired engine. Oh, and finding an "L" for the grille.
Could always employ the Watson tactic of covering up paint flaws and/or damage. Do scallops or similar over the affected area.
It looks pretty darn good in the photo. This is what I think of when it comes to patina - some worn paint and a few nicks and chips, not whole panels covered with rust. Worry more about getting it running and on the road. I've wondered about how hard it would be to swap a 4 liter Jeep engine into a Rambler, my understanding is they're an evolution of that engine.
From Eli English's Instagram. Note the highlighted comment- Also note there is a major difference in patina and rot!
First you do what you want and can afford. My preference is if it has a good look keep it,it’s only original paint once. What I really do not care for is the fake patina where someone paints and sands thru and then clears. If your going to put in that much effort spend a little more and make it look finished.
Looks pretty good. Most guys used to work the damaged areas. Get it down to bare metal. Then primer. Red oxide goes nice with areola pink. Even primer shines up when it's buffed and waxed.
I commented before but the frigging word "patina" is so over used and miss used that it is mind boggling as most people can't tell actual patina from rust, rot and decay. On the other hand these days I would rather see a guy with a nice solid old body with not so nice paint on it but no rot or decay on the body spend their time, money and effort on building a safe car with a good solid chassis first rather than getting carried away getting body work and paint done and then cutting corners on safety items.
Don't be a downer, Debbie. Attitudes like this drive people out of this hobby. Maybe keep your elitism to yourself.
Agreed, that comment you were responding to is the "why aren't young people interested in cars?" starter kit.
had a Macco paint job on an OT car once...it shined I didn't know mud could shine like that and didn't realize wash before paint was extra.... paint sticks to mud when you hot pot it
It buffed out nice. I'd have no issue touching up the chipped and scratched spots if you want to. Get as close to a match as you can and just fill in the missing bits with a brush. It'll be fine. 232 should work well in there, it's gonna be a great car.
Man, I hate the "if it aint a tri five or 32 ford it's junk" attitude. Some guys are in the hobby to keep history alive through old iron. Some guys only see dollar signs. As for the topic question... patina can be good or bad, just like paint can be good or bad. The difference is you can't go to Sherwin Williams and get a gallon of patina to roll on your car... great patina is the result of just-perfect weathering over decades... it has to be earned, it's the mark of a real honest car, and it just can't be faked, no matter how hard some try. When a car has good patina it's a bit of a shame to wipe it away... like cutting the crust off your pizza. I think your Ramb er looks great and especially after the buff job. Wax her up and ride with pride.
Please use something other than imgur, as a medium to post pictures, could you please take some more pictures and post them here so I can what the car looks like after you buffed it out! Thanks from Dennis.
Does anyone else look around their neighborhood and realize they are the neighborhood Burt Munro??? or just me
The Jalopy Journal
