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Hot Rods Paint Work.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by GordonC, Mar 17, 2024.

  1. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,456

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Guys I need a little info. I recently repainted the hood and front fenders on my A roadster i n single stage paint. The fenders came out pretty good but I had a problem with the gun when spraying the hood and it got some orange peel. I know, they almost always have some, but it was more than I'd like. So I wet sanded the whole hood staying away from the louvre area as much as possible, and then worked it with compound, and then finally buffed it out. It looks pretty good for the most part. In this pic you can see how it is. My question revolves around getting the louvre area to now more closely match the rest of the paint. I know it will probably be a lot of hand work (ok with that) so as not to damage the paint on the edges of them, but does anybody have any tips or ideas on how to approach getting the area between the rows up to the same level as the rest of the hood. I can't get in that area even with my small buffing machine so appreciate any help or info. 20240317_161304.jpg
     
  2. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,054

    BJR
    Member

    You need to do to the louvers what ever you did to the rest of the hood to get it to match. Lots of hand work.
     
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  3. You can get mini pneumatic buffers fairly cheap. You will probably need to pick one of those up and then lots of hand sanding. Tape the edges so you don't cut through.
     
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  4. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,456

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I hadn't thought of a mini buffer but I'll check it out. I am ok with doing a bunch of hand work. Just wondered if anybody had some tips on what they have done that has worked out pretty good. Thanks guys.
     
  5. I would just sand it all down and paint it again....it would take less time and effort
     
  6. KenC
    Joined: Sep 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,126

    KenC
    Member

    Let me know how the mini-buffer works out. I have one in the drawer that has never been used.
     
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  7. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 10,435

    Lloyd's paint & glass
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    In my opinion this is the best option for a consistent look with the least effort. Usually when I try hard to lick my wounds, I wind up completely redoing it anyway.
     
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  8. JohnLewis
    Joined: Feb 19, 2023
    Posts: 545

    JohnLewis
    Member

    Miniature buffer with a cone buffing pad. Or they make buffing sponge pads that are coned for a drill. Typically you would use them for areas behind handles or mirrors, popular for in between rim spokes. One of those might work for you.
    Edit: You can get those in small sizes and different shapes as well. A hour glass shaped pad might work for you as well.
     
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  9. HOTRODNORSKIE
    Joined: Nov 29, 2011
    Posts: 594

    HOTRODNORSKIE
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Your going to have to cut the paint for sure, you can buy mini sanding block try starting with 1000 grit you might have to step down to 800 then step up to 1500 then go to 3000 Trizac finish with 5000 less buffing that way, Buff with a mini wool then finish with a mini foam pad protect those edges.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2024
    GordonC and mikhett like this.
  10. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,456

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I ordered a mini buffer tonight. I'll give it a whirl when it shows up and see how it works out. Worse case if need be is I sand it down and spray it again as noted above. Thanks.
     
  11. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,319

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    And tape off the edges of the louvers, so you don't burn the paint off of them!
     

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