Paint

One thing that I do, besides all the above, is that I spray the entire vehicle with a light mist coat of Isopropyl alcohol, the 90% stuff, to kill static electricity. Then a very light last tack with a new tackcloth. As mentioned earlier you need clean air, clean floor, walls, ceiling, lights, clothing, airhose, clean everything. If you haven't tried the alky trick you'll be impressed the first time.

 

OOPS! just saw that you used newspaper....like Earl said, the worst thing available. On a funnier note, i'm allergic to newsprint. The ink makes me sneeze like crazy, so its easy for me to avoid that stuff.

 

Hey chainsaw, if ya gotta use newspaper, tack it off real good, then wet it down with a 50/50 mix of water and alcohol(poor man's wax & grease remover) Mist it on pretty good with a spray bottle to dampen the newspaper--that'll help hold the fibers down
Good luck with it!

 

Well , trying my hand at cut & buff. Used meguiars 105 & 205, most of the dirt sanded out using 2000 gritt. Still not perfect but alot better then when I started. Its hard to tell, 1st pic before, 2nd after. And for you sharp eyed viewers, yes its opposite sides. Dirt looked the same on both sides before buffing.

 

Even the best body shops get dust in the paint jobs.

One line on the insurance est is always "nib and sand and buff for dust"

 

Chainsaw, I got to tell you, it looks pretty dang good! One of the biggest things is prep. If there is ANY dust anywhere on or in the vehicle, it WILL come out. I have been in the paint and body business for 16-17 years. I would suggest getting some thick plastic and covering the walls (think of making a make-shift booth) and everything you don't want paint on. The stuff gets every where and on every thing. You are doing a great job from what the pictures show.

 

On prep, I was always taught to wash everything on the vehicle before. any dirt/dust on the frame,bottom of cab, or bed, or inside of fenders, under hood, and anywhere else it can get, will come out at the worst time. Also, rememer with our nice summer heat and humidity here in DFW, use the proper reducer and hardner. If you use a slower hardner (high temp) the paint will stay tacky longer and allow more trash in the paint, on the other hand if you use a quicker hardner (for cooler temps) you generally get more texture (orange peel) in the finish. It is a fine line to try and balance. Welcome to the fun world of paint!

 

Beyond having a clean spray area, the best trick to spraying Single Stage Enamel at home is to spray it on a rainy (drizzle) day. Enamel is not effected by humidity since it dries slow. The rain will keep the dirt down outside.

 

It was in the low 70's when I shot it, I used a fast hardner. I also used omni mk. I asked for paint ,thats what they gave me, I didnt know it was lower end paint. That stuff took forever to dry, Think the specs sheet said 45 minutes, result lots of dust.