Guy who owns a restoration shop need paint advice for his own vehicle. Yawn......... I still call B.S. If you can't make a decision on what to do with your own shop truck, how do you make customer decisions? Some other message board?
Wow, a lot of douchebags replying here. I just dont' get it, a guy asks a straight forward and upfront quesions and a few have to shit up his thread with their comments. Why, are they insecure, have low self esteem, does it make them feel better to insult and bash some complete strager on the internet. Maybe the guy only does work on late model stuff and out of respect for HAMB members he is asking thier opinion in a painting technique he is unfamiliar with. I used to work as an auto mechanic, I got out of community college in 98 and only ever worked on fuel injected vehicles in my years of turning wrenches, would it be wrong of me request input on on carburators here? As far as my response to his questions... I talked to a guy recently who liked to use PPG DX685 Flattening Agent. You add it to two part catalyzed paint to reduce the sheen of the paint. You can adjust the sheen from semi, to eggshell, to flat by following their tech sheet or adjusting the ratios for somthing in between. You get the durability of the two part catalyzed paint with a reduced sheen. I found these two links using Google: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/p-162.pdf http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Paint/P-162_DX685_Flattening_Agent.pdf Good luck!
I have used that flattening agent in single stage (DCC) with mixed results. The flat clear seems to work better for me...
I used Omni MAE Acrylic Enamel on my T coupe because I was going for an old time gloss look. I think I hit the nail on the head. Also I have used Nason Fast Dry Acrylic Enamel with good results in the past. Omni MTK single stage IMHO is the best bang for your buck and seems to hold up well. Hope I can help Hack
Hey, I'd suggest you avoid the use of flattened clear finishes if the look of an old oem finish is what you're after. Again, a good detain guy can dial in the exact sheen you want without the problems of a bc/cc finish. If your single stage finish dies back in a few years, you can buff and seal it, if you shot it in a two stage cleared finish, you'll be looking at a new paint job when the clear packs it in " Do not reach greedily for the Kool-Aid "
Lay down acrylic enamal, then wet sand starting with 1500, 2000, 2500, and finally 3000, then hand wax, no high speed buffing. It will have somewhat of a shine (like it has aged), but not typical high gloss new paint shine.
If you don't care enough about what your truck looks like, why should anyone trust you with theirs? YOU might think it just a shop truck but to a potential customer it IS a business card wether you like it or not. If it is not an obvious beater, they're going to think it's the best you can do, period.
This is a good way to go. Just put a little flattener in it. It should give you what you want for the look. Sometimes it's tough to figure out what you want. Nothing wrong with asking questions. I don't care how long you've been doing this kinda thing. It just helps to ask a question about what look you're going for. Mike
The Jalopy Journal
