Painted my car with rustoleum

No doubt the old DP was top shelf, but have no fear! The aviation industry still uses the "older" systems due to their superior performance and they are easily obtained from suppliers like aircraft spruce. They are made by companies like Stits, and PTI, Randolph etc. Downside to them is they dont contain talc like the DP primers had, so they are more sensitive to topcoat windows and may require scuffing. As an added benefit many of the aviation primers are tinted to look like a "zinc chromate" 1k primer, so it fits in for our vintage cars if there is some primer exposed on an interior section.

 

Rolled on Really? Where is my Roller?? Great Job.. Looks fantastic!!

 

well heres my .02.
There is a whole world of Rustoleum NOT on the Home Depots shelves.
As an operating engineer in charge of a local college power plant, I know where i speak from. Rustoleums COMMERCIAL LIST consists of a vehicle line, and they have thier own reducer specificly for SPRAY application, as well as hi gloss, semi and flats. and at least 5 seperate specialty primers, Ever see a dull UPS truck? or one thats rusted? Rusto warmed up to 105 degress before shooting will look like Imron when it dries. before changing trades, i shot everything from gypsy cabs to a fire truck with it,
So dont badmouth what you dont know about.

 

ive used rustoleum for years . i did not find that you could not paint over it with regular paint . no fish eyes or rejection . hmmmm maybe im just lucky !

 

Sounds like this stuff would spray well with a turbine spray system if it likes being warm.

 

Yes...yes it does.

 

I shot a Harley black thru a binks 7 at 110 degrees and 65 psi unthinned. LONG before powder coating was the kraze. (1970)

heat is your friend with any enamel, especially spray bombs, get a hot plate and old 2gt sauce pan,100-105 degrees water. rotate back and forth between 2 cans, best way to shoot hammertone.

Just finnished Rusto spray bomb repaint.
safety red
hammertone silver
hammertone black

 

I paint All my minibikes with Rustoleum. Tough as nails and good shine. Up to 5 mini's now. The Rustoleum safety colors "Pop". I spray mine though, thinned with acetone through my $9 HF purple gun.

I don't know if I'd paint a car with it though. I do paint brackets, pulleys and mounts etc with the gloss black oil base paint.

 

Love the color...might wanna snip that zip-tie off before the family dog decides to chew on it and drag the bike around the shop ( dont ask how I know).

 

My old ditzler manual lists 160f for spraying synthetic enamel. Never personally tried it.

 

This rolling is a lot of manual work, I would not recommend it unless you are like me and don't have an air compressor and cheap...lol It's a scary start and had me rethinking what I started at first.
This worked for me and I'm really happy with the 35 bucks I spent but if I had money I would either spray regular automotive paint or get it done. I believe in both sides of what a paint job should be and won't criticize either. This is not a how to but a "what to expect" pictorial.

First two coats and I had not done a test panel to figure out you need to roll it again right when it starts setting up.



second application, two coats, still looks scary




rolled again after setting up




after it dries

 

Years ago when I got my model A the fire wall was all butchered up. My uncle gave me a straight rusty one, my cousin & I sand blasted it and painted it with a brush using rustoleum rusty metal primer and let it dry in the sun. Later I installed it in my A. Several years later when prepping the truck for paint, I wet sanded the fire wall, then primered over the rustoleum and painted it with acrylic lacquer, that was over 26 years ago and the paint is still holding up well and not chipping or peeling from that rusty metal primer.

 

The paint on old radiators was asphalt based. It's flexible and self-healing. As of a couple years ago it was still available.

 

The first time we threw paint at our project, i was like OH SHIT!
Some member wanna bash us for doing it this way--OH WELL!

<STYLE>.ExternalClass .ecxhmmessage P{padding:0px;}.ExternalClass body.ecxhmmessage{font-size:10pt;font-family:Tahoma;}</STYLE>OK. as far as our 'rustoleum roll on' job it was a lesson to my 18yr old son(DJ) & damn near every neighbor (once again i was the focus) about how cars/trucks were painted back in the day{with a brush},that our vehicle is O/T & was seriouly fucked up & looking like a rat rod (not in my drive way!) my 18yr old son & myself painted & did all the body work with tools made before 1960,i do not have a air compressor that handle spraying paint, The next project will be done in a more modern process, hell we only have $75-90 dollars tied up in the WHOLE paint job,to the guys who wanna talk shit about us doing it that way,your missing the whole lesson here it's my son's project & he learned how to do body/rust repair without spending money he didn't have,so he has a desent looking vehicle-NOT some fucked up P.O.S rat rod looking shit can with a super low buck paint job--THAT he is proud to say he did it while working with his dad!
old guys bitch about how young kids don't wanna get involved in old cars,my son had no real fancy to get off the Damn computer or Xbox & do anything that involved manual labor til this! now he is proud to tell everybody he did this while his best friend has his eye on a new fiat 500
D.J now understand taking pride in his work because i wouldn't let him half ass anything during this build & he now understands why i work so damn hard to save old iron....Sorry for the long rant but i had to say it.--chuck

 

Man, that color is the cat's ass! Your car looks awesome!

JW

 

I dont like to slam on people , but this is not good. It looks like a cheap $50 rustolium Paint job. If your happy with that, then thats all that matters.

 

I just got into that temp range and stuck there, after i panited the wrong car by virtue of POPPING a spray bomb in runaway hot water.

 

just wait for a hot day and youll be bummed on how sticky the paint is....

 

HUH?
painted mine 2 1/2 years ago and it has never been sticky.
maybe you didnt follow instructions

 

I really like the 4-door sedan that used black and red! I think it looks like "vintage" paint for a lack of a better term. I had a car that was shot "satin green" with the Ace hardware brand stuff and was surprised at the comments I got. The hue was right and more than one guy stopped and asked what process we used to get the old original paint look after the chop. On some cars it works on others it would be a crying shame.

 

I had the same thought. Ive never had synthetic (alkyd) enamels get "sticky" after they cured. Granted they do take much longer to cure than either a lacquer or 2K paint.

 

I just painted my cab and grille with Rustoleum. Thinned with paint thinner, a few drops of hardener, and sprayed it on with an HVLP gun. Went on REAL shiny, but has been dulling down during the cure. I like the muted sheen, it looks old-timey. Don't hate me.

 

Looks pretty damn nice to me!

Wondering why you used mineral spirits/thinner when it seems some say to use acetone - or is that just if you roll/brush it? Also, "a few drops of hardener"?

Were you following some kind of ratio's or formula or just doing it by "feel"?

 

Thanks! I've tried acetone, but I like the way the paint flows out much better with paint thinner. Just a personal choice thing. I use about a dozen drops per quart. Takes about 24 hours to get past the tacky stage, and another 48 to set up hard enough to handle without worry of fingerprints. Yeah, thats a long time, but I'm not in any particular hurry.

 

Most reducers for Syn. Enamels contain mixtures of both fast evaporation solvents and slower solvents (to help flow out). A 75/25 Acetone/Mineral Spirits mixture works well as a medium temp. Xylene by itself workes well, and with the addition of 5% mineral spirits workes even better on gloss finishes. Dont be affraid to mix the solvents, experiment and see what works really well for you. As long as you stick with Toluene, Acetone, Xylene, Xylol, Mineral Spirits, Ethyl Acetate and the like you will be fine. Syn. Enamel is pretty forgiving.

 

A lot of these paint jobs look pretty good for Rustoleum, heck I couldn't even tell. I've used it before on wheels and other parts but never on a whole car. I did notice that rustoleum seems harder to clean out of my gun than the acrylic enamel's I've used. I've also found that I can get a gallon of single stage acrylic enamel for about $70.00 - $100.00 online and at my local Sherwin Williams automotive. If Rustoleum's $30.00 for a gallon plus $30.00 for clear coat (if you want to use it) why not just spend $10.00-$40.00 more and get a paint that's made for cars?

 

So is mud.

 

Are you implying they're synonymous?

 

We have all seen terrible paint jobs that used top dollor products. It's refreshing to see good results from affordable products. Aren't you glad I commented on this clapped out issue. Worn out or not; I almost read the entire thread. Yea; it's a little slow at the office. Did you see that replay from the guy who rolled his paint on? Wow!

 

Depending on where you stand on the topic it could be taken any number of ways.