[/qoute] Speak english. Today's flatteners are made with talc. Ever let a can of flattening agent sit for a few weeks? Kind of resembles watery chalk. What is chalk made of? Talc. What is talc? Pourous. The stripes went over lacquer which protected the entire job. Therefoire making the flatteners not an issue in overall durability. The entire point to putting primer over a base is to achieve the look you all so desire while still maintaining the protection we all need. Its not that hard.[/quote] i fixed my post, but whatever, dp will fail if u leave it out long enuff, there isnt enuff dry film to protect it for ever. overapplying will leave a film that will never dry and keep the top layers soft. no need to put primer, a flat single stage is a safer bet. dp gets ****ed up in the sun quick, it chalks out within 5 months of sitting outside. flattening agent may have a porous material, but it wont make the clear porous. im not going to leave dp as a topcoat, there is no point when there are other options, dp gets expensive nowadays at 250 bucks a gallon kit.
I wouldnt leave it in DP either, nor would I put primer over a single stage; but when someone asks for a product thats flat, but holds up to weather, is cheap, is OK for temp use and comes in 97 different colors, you sometimes have to bend the rules. Anything will fail if not properly applied, left out forever, used in a manner other than directed, but were not talking about years here. (I don't think) The reason I say DP is because I would have no doubts about leaving it on underneath the job, something like Hot Rod Flatz or something of less quality I'd rather seen sanded back off. I'd vote for HOK Epoxy, but I think its a sin to drive a car in that color.
sem metallok is comparable and not as ugly. brian lynch recommends using the black sealer and leaving in that for a bit, we both know since its urethane and catalyzed, should hold up decent.
The Jalopy Journal
