Projects " Peel and Seal" for sound deadening questions ?

A question. Have you guys noticed all the 10-year-old pickups that have rust on the boxes above the rear wheel wells. I think about sealing the interior panels of an automobile with these products will speed up the process. But if you do use these, you must clean the metal and seal it by painting the surface. Then you must use as little seams as possible. Layering it from the bottom up. Like shingles on a house so water can`t creep under the edge. I`m not a fan of tape on joints either. Just another place for water to seep under neath. I have been tearing the interiors out of cars for over 30 years and have seen the effects of rust and rot. No matter how many miles on them, you never know what lies under neath. Model A`s have the least amount of rust, compared to the cars from the 50`s. And the least amount of floor insulation.

 

Fair enough Gene, except that the OP asked about a specific product by name. I have also seen the photos of the Eastwood stuff, and yeah, that was a mess! I've not seen or heard about anyone having the problem with Peel and Seal, but there's always the possibility that someone has had a problem, nothing is perfect. But the probability of good results with this product, from all the positive reviews, is pretty good.

 

Hey, Gene;
What is the actual difference 'twixt the black or silver foil on the noico? Other than color. It's all hidden anyways after upholstery/carpets.
TIA.
Marcus...

 

Don't use the peel and seal from the hardware store unless it's the non asphalt based product. The stuff will stink up the whole car, and likely also let go if put on the inside of the roof above the headliner.
I've used lots of the type that's got the dense dark gray foam backing on everywhere in my car builds and it's great. Comes in 12"x 15 ft. rolls for around $20, and a couple rolls will do most cars. Might need 3 rolls if you got crazy applying it inside doors, and other places too.
Frost King FV516

 

The difference is just the color of the foil, and the sliver could be painted. Under carper or upholstery you wouldn't know the difference.

I chose the black simply because at the time of my last 3 builds (all with the NOICO black), I had no idea how long it would be before a headliner (or anything more then carpet on the floor) would appear. My coupe was 1st built in 2012, by 2018, still no headliner (did get carper & door panels). Since 2018, still no headliner, and at this point I don't expect one. The earlier stuff I put in the coupe was silver foil, and was quite irritating (reflections off the silver). You don't even notice the black. My 2nd build left here with no headliner. My 48 has a temp headliner, carpet, and door panels, but may or may not ever get a real headliner.

I guess for me the black buys a little (or a lot of) time to save up for an interior, or buy to more important things on the list. An acceptable insolation, sound deadener, and a non-rusty metal interior, that doesn't reflect light, all in one product that can reduce the immediate need to finish the interior was a huge plus on my budget. Sure put me in the driver seat faster.

 

The peel & seal from Lowes has worked fine for me, have used it in 3 or 4 cars over the last 10 years or so. Sticks fine, no melting or odor. I only use it on the floor or large flat panels though. Personally I think it's a waste of time to do the entire inside of the car. But then my cars are pretty loud, and have air leaks or I drive with the window down. I usually wear ear plugs on long trips any way, so what good is sound deadening?
Love the sound of a V8 at full song...

 

When using the Home Depot/Lowe’s stuff be careful of cut edges cutting you.

 

Maybe, I'm the minority here.....IDK. I used the EASTWOOD SOUND DEADENDER......
I've read previous posts regarding melting, dripping, etc......
I doubled up on the floor, and surrounding.........NEVER had an issue, what so ever.......
Exhaust is real close to the floor, and I can sit on it without any heat...... Maybe a bad batch at one time, and others got it. IDK. Just seem's like people grandstand only things they've used, and that's gospel.......
Just like mufflers.....Everyone say's "this is the best"....... Until you've proven that you've tried a bunch of different products, and can provide proof, I'm calling Bull Shit!!!!

 

Did a Model A pick up for a customer. It was dripping before the interior was finished and running down the road.

 

One of the biggest reasons for the rust on rear wheel openings on the trucks is the spray on foam used. It is to expand giving some strength and also expand to keep rattles down. guess what it holds moisture. Big problems.

 

Hey, Gene;
Thanks. I kinda figured that. For the extra $$$, I think painted-over would be just fine. .
Marcus...

 

were you using peal and stick from Lowes?

 

The shop that built it used the Eastwood brand. It was about 5 6 years ago. Somewhere I have pictures. But that was 3000 pic`s ago.

 

It seems that people are using the term "peel and seal" as a generic term for any foil backed asphaltic or butyl rubber material; kind of like "kleenex" for any facial tissue. It confuses the issue because all those types of products may not be the same (most likely are not). Eh, what're you going to do. I tried to keep it straight, but people are going to do what they do, you can't herd cats...

 

I edited my post above, for clarity.
Typical Hamb thread, you kinda have to read between the lines.

 

Go get "Cool It" by Thermo Tech from Summit...or NAPA should carry it as well and even your close race car supplier will have it becuz some drag racers put it on tte firewall to kill the heat. A 30" by 60" will run you about $60...and sometimes Summit has a deal-"buy two for $XX.XX". I've used this stuff for years...and am sold on it...

R-

 

dont model as also have wooden floors? hardly a fair comparison.

 

Metal floors with wood inserts. More places for water to creep into. Model A`s were not water tight from the factory.

 

I doubt there are many actual 'manufacturers' of this stuff (coated film production is pretty specialized)..... made by a few companies and private labeled for many more, so accurate comparisons are hard to make, except for the type of 'deadener' material (butyl, asphaltic, etc.).

 

X-II
6sally6

 

I used similar in my 35 Chevy however went to Dynamat in my 46 Olds.

 

Invest in a good sound deadener. Doing things twice is never fun...

 

Good information for my next project....once the weather warms up.

 

Ok so what works the best to get rid of the tinny sound in the doors?

 

^ I put 80 Mil Noico inside my doors (inner and outer sides) then put foil backed closed cell foam sheet over that. My doors went from tinny to Cadillac.
Another spot to put sound deadener is under the top of the dash. The top of my dash extends forward into the cowl and goes forward to the engine compartment. I did the same here as I did the doors and it made a noticeable difference.

 

If you want to be truly traditional, as found in any number of older resurrected hot rods....
use crumpled-up newspaper.


Seriously tho, I'm contemplating the same thing as I'm working on some interior stuff now too. Good thread.

 

Call me, uh, whatever. Sticking that shit all over everything just seems off to me. I can see inside door skins and ¼ panels, but the whole floor? Inside on the door shells? Not feeling it, never have. Did an old Wagoneer for a guy and the builder had that shit under the door panels. What cluster fuck trying to get the door panels off. I guess I'm trying to say it has a use but buying into the "Frank's Red Hot" philosophy ain't it. However as was said above gotta do whatcha gotta do.

 

Peel and Seal has been great for my use. No smell, no drips. One 6" width x width of door strip takes out ALL hollowness.

 

I wonder if there is a chance the materials will cause condensation & eventually rust?
Like a vinyl top.
I want some insulation on the roof for heat .... still hesitant though.