Projects " Peel and Seal" for sound deadening questions ?

I used the peel and seal that Home Depot sells in my doors and cab and it's worked great. Been fine for almost 20 years. No smell and seems to be very well adhered.

 

I just put this stuff on today. Not for sound deadener, but to try and keep some header heat out.

 

If any of this peal & stick stuff is actually well stuck to the inside of outer sheet metal, condensation can't form where ever the material is stuck. Condensation forms on the cold side of metal when the other side gets warm faster, and moisture is present. All of the peal & stick acts as an insulation preventing the condensation from forming. If you leave sections not covered, or if the stuff is poorly stuck, condensation can occur just as if there was nothing there. When pressed or rolled into place its stuck pretty tight to the metal. It takes some effort to remove to remove the well stuck stuff.

The glued stuff works as well to prevent condensation, as long as the glue holds up and the material is held against the steel.

 

So why did you not cover the underside of the cowl, and do you intend on covering at least the front 1/2 of the floor? You are leaving the job 1/2 done, in my opinion.

 

I didn't cover the top of the cowl or the front floor because I didn't think that it needed it. I don't think I'll have a big heat issue from the top of the cowl, it's really not even part of the engine compartment. As for the floors, I'm not sure yet if they will get covered. I only did the firewall already because it was easy to get to while the dash is out.

 

Just a heads up... Home Depot does not carry the Peel and Seal brand. H.D's brand is called Resisto. Roll size is the same. You can find it at your local Home Depot in isle #22.

 

I used Kill Mat in my 53 Dodge. It helped quite a bit with the noise but when you are running Cherry Bombs nothing will cut all the noise. I was surprised with how much it helped with the heat. The roof of that black cab would get smoking hot but after the Kill Mat there was hardly any heat transfer into the cab. It is not sold as an insulation because they would have to do all the "R" factor rating and testing on it which runs the price up but believe me it works.

 

Ran the numbers myself and Gene is right, the Noico from Summit is a better deal overall. Got a box from them and used it inside the doors,1/4 panels, rear firewall and part of the floor. Then did the inside of the door and 1/4 panels. Use your heat gun and a roller and I believe that shit is forever. This is all on the 26 coupe in my avatar. Haven't had it on the road yet but just opening and closing the doors it made a hell of a difference.

 

Lately I have been running FatMat XXX on the metal, topped with Noico, topped with 1/4" MLV over areas where sound is produced, followed by varying thickness of high quality carpet padding.

 

Man Gimpy, that should do it.

 

Like Anthony Myrick said earlier, it's the "poor man's Dynamat". But comparing the two is not comparing apples to apples. You may get by with the big box store roofing peel and seal but it was really not made for this application and will not work as good as the actual various butyl rubber sound deadening products. I bought Dynamat Extreme through an acoustic dealer for about 2/3 the price that the automotive stores were charging.

 

So I have insulated a ton of cars. The mass loaded stuff is good for sound and acoustical control mainly. You get into the stuff like Dynapad, Foam with a vinyl middle later then you get into the heat blocking factors. The bubble wrap stuff is a ample heat shield also if you need something cheap.

End of the day, covering the interior with peel and stick or dynamat etc will cut temps down some for thermal radiation, but alot of work for minimal payout if thermal is your main issue. I found strips of the dynamat or peel and stick to be just as effective for acoustical blocking out. If you take apart a late model OT car the floor boards are coated with some like built stuff just in strips in some areas.

If I was to do a car today, Wheel wells, strip over the trans tunnel, strip down both floor boards one on each side, going front toe board to rear under seat area. Then either foam or bubble wrap insulation, jute and carpet.

Side note the bubble wrap foil sounds kinda like diapers when stepped on if you don't use jute... Don't get harassed by your buddies for Depends and have to moon them to prove them wrong.

Search Amazon for dynamat or fatmat etc some times you can find it with no marking for alot cheaper. Heat gun is a must if you are in a cool climate to help adhesion.

 

What material is that?

 

I'm an "imposter" of sorts here in that I build campervans. But here's what we know:

Butyl mat was tested by audio nerds and they found that 25% surface coverage was most cost effective in eliminating panel vibrations. Our experiences are similar, and their are weight penalties with butly, as by design they mainly work by adding mass to panels that would otherwise resonate at unwanted frequencies.

Our rule of thumb is if the panel sounds tinny, then we add butyl. If it's a dull thump, it's good to go. For actually cutting out sounds of exhaust and engines we find padding, foam, and jute are more effective. Look at what sound booths use: foam!

We use 1.5" Thinsulate in cavities to keep temps livable in the living cabin, but it's also useful in certain areas of a road car if you have hollow voids.

 

I have used 15 lb roofing felt, and 30 lb when I could find it. Its a great sound deadener, floor pan heat forms it to the pan, it can be removed easily, and inexpensive. The Ford dealer I took for ride in my '40 said it was quieter than the new Lincoln! I have not been able to find any Spec info on the heat reflection capacity of any of the various types of peel and stick, etc.

 

I've had good results with FatMat products. I did the entire cab with "Rattletrap" which is their foil faced butyl product. From the top of the firewall to the seat base is also covered by FatMat floor liner which is a high density closed cell foam material. On top of that there's thick jute padding and carpeting. Heat and road noise are virtually nonexistent.

 

Peel & Seal is made of the same material (asphalt) as the cheaper sound deadening products. I used it in one of my cars. It is NOT as good as the butyl sound deadeners (such as Dynamat), but it's better than nothing...

 

Hey everyone, I stumbled upon this forum and thread while looking into installing sound deadening in my new to me Bel Air. I'm hoping to get it done this spring, so I'm doing my research for now. I'm curious if anyone can share any of their experiences and the final outcomes of their similar installs that hasn't been mentioned already in this thread.
While I've found numerous online guides detailing sound deadening installation processes, sound deadener test outcomes, and sound deadening product choices, I'm eager to learn about any inventive approaches and solutions others have experienced. Your help would be greatly appreciated!

Edit: I ended up finding some really good reading material on the subject. Figured I would come back and share with others. Enjoy

Sound Deadener Products - Reference Information & Guide
Sound Deadening Material Buyers Guide
Sound Deadening Material Testing Results

 

MigJasper
If you have read this thread from the start to the end, you have seen what the experience of many builders (both individuals and pro builders) have had and have freely shared. Other then maybe an update from less then a year ago, I would be surprised to hear of many more different approaches.

If you are looking for strictly sound deadening, strips of the butyl based peal and stick on open areas of sheet metal, followed by some thick foam or Jute backing works well. Generally the thicker the sound deadening material build up and the more specific different material is used, the more effective it is (some one reported they use 1.5" of several different material) I suspect that was pretty effective.

If you are looking for insulation and sound deadening, you need to cover as much of the surface as you can with as thick of material as you can. Anything left uncovered will allow heat to enter your ride as will poor door, window seals, and other openings in the floor or firewall. Layers of different product is more effective then a thin layer of anything. Sound deadening and insolation is expensive and adds a lot of weight to a vehicle, and as the thickness grows, the cost effectiveness of additional material gets reduced.

A bit about the metal protection, most of the peal and stick stuff needs to be applied directly to the clean bare metal, and it needs to be pressed completely tight with out air between the material and the metal. If it is sealed against the bare metal, it will protect the metal from water condensation, but probably won't help much with standing water (nothing is very effective with standing water). The peal and stick stuff does not do well sticking to painted surfaces. Any void in the coverage allows the chance for condensation to get between the material and the metal.

The closed foam stuff is pretty good at not soaking up water, but it can happen. The old jute stuff (I have no idea if the modern jute backing is better or worse) was horrible at collecting water and could retaining the water for long periods of time.

 

has anyone tried it long-term in hotter climates? I'm curious if the asphalt smell ever came back after a couple of summers. I’m considering it for my floor pans but don’t want to deal with mess later on. Any updates on how it’s holding up over time would be great.

 

The asphalt stuff is intended for a house roof. I would not apply the asphalt based stuff in any automotive use at all. No place. No time. Spend a few bucks more and buy the butyl based stuff.

The butyl based peal and stick seems to work very well, there is no odor, and doesn't start to break down until the temps reach the 140 and up range. How hot does it get where you are?

I have the butyl stuff firmly pressed onto the bottom side of the roof in my coupe, its also applied to every underside of all the outer body sheet metal in the passenger compartment of the car, including the inside of the firewall and the entire floor pan within the passenger compartment. There is no head liner in the car, if it goes bad, I'll know it really soon. Its all been there for 10 or so years, and probably 80,000 miles.

The car sits outside all year around, winters can get to -30F in the winter, and upper 90s+ in the summer around here. The outside of the roof on my car is painted white, so that doesn't adsorb as much heat as a black roof would, but the stuff inside my roof looks as good as it did the first day I put it there. There is no hint of it coming loose from the inside of the roof, or the inside of the firewall. I have no concerns about the same stuff under the carpet on the floor at all.

If you intend to put it on the floor without covering it with something, be aware the foil backing is pretty thin and can probably wear through (you cut the foil with a box opener knife to fit the stuff into the vehicle when the material is new, the foil is very thin). Once the foil backing wears, tears, or gets pealed off the butyl, I would expect things could get messy pretty fast. Carpet or a non moving floor mat would protect the foil for a very long time.

 

I've used it on several builds over the years. No smell and it is hot in central Florida. Clean surface well and use rollers to press it to surface. Inexpensive and it works.

 

I like that stuff most are doing !
But not what or how I did, in 1960,,I need to add some temp n sound control to a full custom Henry J, I was building{ on very low teenage piggy bank.
So looked n found in the trash,some black house rug{ about 1/2 inch thick} and only saved to clean part.
Made two layers of rug*,looked good an soft/ Made my own alum screw down door sills to hold rug= All looked great an cost close to zip.just time. One Gal I dated,always took her shoes off to ride,and loved it. Some times I like old way better.

 

The inside of my engine compartment in my V8 Corvair is done in peel and stick. Worked great on my application. Really quiet

 

I use it on every car I build never had a problem coming off in the heat and i live in Florida. Also no smell.