Technical Pertronix Install Questions

Couple quick questions on Pertronix…
I installed the 6 volt, negative ground Pertronix install on my 54 Bel Air’s 235.
When installed, vehicle was a strong runner, after install, it ran once (pretty well) and then afterwords wouldn’t run again. Wouldn’t take to ether, wouldn’t take to timing. Like there was no spark, it was quite weak but present. Reinstalled points, bam. Ran great again. Strong.

I am told these have no ballast resistor, I am hearing conflicting info; “add a ballast,” “use the recommended coil,” “you don’t need a ballast,” or “it was bad out of the box.”

so this leads me to my core questions:
What have you experienced?
I hear the 6 volt 54 Bel Air was not given a ballast resistor, is this true?
If true, do I need to add one? Or am I truly OK without? Given they have a non-ballast system wiring diagram, I imagine I don’t need one.
Yes. I did search this issue quite a bit, but no real resolutions or root cause documentation.

info and advise appreciated. Just want to have a good runner. And yes, I know points will survive electronic attacks, but driving my 54 Bel Air would be far down on my list of things to do at that given time (sarcasm).

 

From what I understand only time you need a ballast on pertronix is if it runs at 12 volts(most points cars are 12v in start and 6v in run position) or if it had one on the car stock. On your car you should not need one. Also from what I understand the correct ohm coil is extremely important on pertronix. Still figuring out the coil for my 12v 53 Bel Air before I pull the large cap hei and install my own pertronix converted points dizzy (sbc swapped). Another thing to check is make sure the pickup tone ring under the bug hasn't come loose. Would check condition of bug while there too

 

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the ‘bug’? New to points.

 

The solution seems pretty obvious to me.

 

It's the same part whether points or electric. The plastic piece with metal contacts that spin that are bolted to the distributor shaft to connect power from coil to respective plug wire terminal

 

Understood. Everything visually looks good, didn’t notice any play, the car only has 34,000 on it, so luckily most of it is clean and not clapped out. I will recheck.

 

On the bug mainly check for cracks or burn spots

 

You need to use their coil and it will run for ever with no problems.

 

Indeed! The rest of the universe calls it a rotor or rotor button.

 

You can always call Pertronix if you aren’t clear on something. They have great customer service.

 

I agree. I have run a 12 volt pertronix with the pertronix coil and 12 volts to the coil for several years with no problems.

 

My experience is only from reading the Barn for many years, is that they don't like the vatying surge of generators.
Happiest with alternator's power supply.
Or as tubman put it ( and he knows his electrons )

 

If its a Pertronix II they seem to be self sensing so pretty much any coil will do with or without balast. Its still an inductive discharge system but powers the coil for a fraction of the time compared to a points system.

The gap between module and the rotor is important though.

 

Pertronix got a bad rap, but most problems I saw where related to wrong installation/parts.
1. use the coil they recommend
2. use the wires they recommend
3. biggest common mistake: never put the positiv cable on the positive side of the coil (which will burn out the module after it run just fine for a while) It really needs to be directly on something from a keyed source. Never use the pink resistance wire from the ignition.
4. get a Ignitor III (don't even think about I or II)
5. Some tachometers mess with the system. If you run into trouble, disconnect it first and see if that is the source.

 

Sounds like a "laundry list" of reasons NOT to use a Pertronix.

 

I think some people just don’t get it , they think new is better , and new ain’t traditional !!!

 

I have Pertronix units in 3 of my vehicles, the longest about 11 years, used their coils and wires, followed the directions, haven't had a single issue.

 

It was called the "bug" by lots of folks back in the '40s and '50s. At least where I grew up.

On the six volt model , VOLTAGE MUST BE SIX OR BEDTTER.

Ben

 

I only have experience with 12 volt Pertronics units. If you use their coil, and follow their instructions, it will work perfectly. I have had one on my CJ3A for more than 10 years, probably 15 years, and never a problem. Also had one on a 54 Buick. Both vehicles started better, felt like they had more power, and ran smoother with the Pertronics. And yes I know how to set up a points distributor. Now maybe the distributors were warn and Pertronics compensates for that, I don't know, but they both ran better.

 

I have switched back to points, when the pentronix works it's great but when it gives up there is no warning, it just quits!

Mine gave up the ghost in 5 o'clock bumper to bumper traffic and it was near 100 degrees, I was in a turn lane, talk about people pissed off. HRP

 

If you've been on the hamb long at all, you knew when you read this thread title it was going to devolve into an argument about points. And you knew exactly who was going to be whining about it... Lmao. Some folks sure can dish out the criticism but not take it. The thread doesn't say "should I be using petronix or points?"....

Every time there's a question thread about adjusting points I'm gonna start up with the ol "why anyone would use points is beyond me...."

Hamb-book strikes again! Lol

Cheers to those who answered the ops question...

 

I ran a Pertronix II on a generator for 7 yrs before changing because of adding AC, 11 years now trouble free with no spark plug changes or cleaning. Use their recommended parts. Call them for support. Make sure EVERYTHING is clean and dry when installing. Good luck.

 

This #5. I had same problem on a 12v Pertronix a while back. Disconnected the tach wire and it fired right up.

 

I don't mind changing points at all, but it's getting harder to find matchbook covers

 

I’ve had two Pertronix modules fail. One lasted around 7-8 years and the other one just a couple. Went back to points in one car and the other has all MSD components. I won’t buy any of their products again.

 

It does not appear they make a 6 volt, neg ground, 6 cylinder Ignitor III. I do see in the instructions they say to use the red to the positive on the coil, is this incorrect? To my understanding, there is no ballast resistor on the actual wiring in this car, just the 12 volt.

 

I used a Pertronix and their coil on a 327, never a problem, then put it on a 355-same thing, no problem.
--and I am scared of working on my own car, especially if it goes south on one of Houston's freeways or known side streets. Little fellers with big weapons cruise around just lookin' for cars to "help".

 

There are a lot of people on this forum with a lot of real-world experience and knowledge. Because of this, many folks come here asking questions seeking this knowledge and experience.

If a question is essentially "How can I make this inferior equipment work?" I believe "Don't use that inferior equipment" is a valid answer.