OSPHO's instructions say that it should not be washed off with water. Just wipe off excess while still wet, then let dry overnight. Shoot compatible primer.
I see in your avatar that your coupe does not have the original headlights, but rather a '40 Ford look-a-like without the park lamps. I recognize this because my first car, back in 1963, was a '37 Flatback 2 dr, and had the same, or similar, sealed beam conversions. My question, for anybody out there, is who made these, and are they available anywhere? Surely they were an improvement over the original lamp and reflector setup. The '37 was such a mile stone car with a solid steel roof, cross steering, an alligator hood, and the headlights built into the fenders. Like so many of us, I often wish I had never gotten rid of that car and still had it today, 55 years later.....RooDog
I have been using the Home Depot Phosphoric etch and prep and Rust Mort for year with never an issue. I always keep it wet and apply it with a spray bottle or paint brush. I use a scotchbrite pad soaked in the liquid or a stainless wire brush, I keep scrubbing the surface to remove the surface rust until its gone. I will do it outside and apply it, go work in the shop,(10 - 15 min) come back and reapply until the rust is gone. then I use a liquid soap degreaser and spray the part down and lightly washing with a well used scotchbrite pad. I then use a electric pressure washer that I have set up at the shop and wash out all out the nocks and crannies of the part. This is followed up by blowing off and wiping with a clean rag until its totally dry. I have had parts in my shop that have been treated this process that have been bare metal for over a year with no signs of rust. When its time to epoxy prime I always use a primer that recommends etch before prime for better adhesion. This is the primer that I use. http://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refin...ay-2014/PPG-Introduces-MBE-200-2-1-VOC-Primer I use SPI primer on parts that are not etched. Hope this helps.
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