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Technical Photo/Advice Request: Split A Wishbones

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by powderfinger, Mar 30, 2018.

  1. powderfinger
    Joined: Mar 16, 2018
    Posts: 27

    powderfinger
    Member

    I'm working on a hiboy coupe build right now, and am not sure what axle and wishbone setup to go with. This is an extreme budget build poverty pony, so I'm trying to use what I have available and save money wherever I can. I have an A axle and wishbones that I would run, but I am having extremely polar reactions to this idea from those that I've run it by. I know most people prefer the later ones as they are longer and have more caster and don't hang as low underneath the frame, and that that's the "better" way.

    Can anyone provide photos of cars that have been built using a dropped A axle and split A wishbones? I haven't been able to find a lot of information on this. I will be building my own mounts for the wishbone, so getting the correct angle and position for them isn't a problem.

    My main concerns are that they would end up dangling too far down below the frame rails, causing cosmetic and possibly scrub line issues. I am also told by one knowledgeable person that they may be too weak to handle the output of a stock-ish SBC although I think that may be a load of baloney.

    If anyone has any experience or suggestions to offer I would be grateful.
     
  2. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 2,374

    1946caddy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from washington

    I'm using a 37 axle with Model A split bones and a reversed eye Posie spring. It's mocked up at ride height in the photo. I don't for see a problem with camber change when hitting bumps since I don't plan on going off road. The camber change would actually be more than if they were not split. The most important thing is to have the bones level at ride height. Your camber would than be adjusted by pie cutting the front of the bones. I prefer to cut the top side so the gap is closed when adding camber. After splitting the bones, you can get threaded ends from speedway to weld on the end. I tig welded the first p*** and wired the cover on a positioner. I do level from the bottom side and not where the level is setting.
    The engine size doesn't have any effect on the front of the car but this knowledgeable person may be referring to using a Model A rear end setup
    352.JPG 022.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2018
  3. powderfinger
    Joined: Mar 16, 2018
    Posts: 27

    powderfinger
    Member

    Thanks! I feel a lot better about running them after seeing yours. I'm not sure why the only photos I've seen of them have the bones hanging WAY below the frame but this seems to be the solution I'm after. I'll make sure they sit level at ride height, I have the front section of the frame swept so that should help bring them up closer to the frame as well. Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  4. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,559

    mike bowling
    Member

    Stock axle with disc conversion, split "A" bones. Ran out great. '30 Tudor 7-21-09 037.jpg
     
  5. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,559

    mike bowling
    Member

    4 " dropped axle, stock "A" split bones. another good driver. ( owner Gary L.) DSCN2284.JPG
     
  6. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,559

    mike bowling
    Member

    Stock axle, split "A" bones. DSCN2176.JPG
     
    InstantT and Vanness like this.
  7. powderfinger
    Joined: Mar 16, 2018
    Posts: 27

    powderfinger
    Member

    Thanks Mike! I feel a lot better about running the A bones now. That last car sits great.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  8. X38
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 17,498

    X38
    Member

    ...and bent spring;)
     
  9. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,559

    mike bowling
    Member

    reverse eye without a reverse eye! It came on a front end like that "old school"!
    chopped 3" and channeled 4" ( didn't want to buy patch panels)
     
  10. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    I started a new thread without reading this first. I am trying to make the same decision. Is it ok to split the front and leave the rear bones attached to the ******? Should you leave the hard motor mounts in place? Other option is the float a motor mounts. Maybe springy yanking the motor back and forth?
     
  11. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Caddy: You are talking about 'Caster', not 'Camber'. Just so as not to get the readers confused. Good looking 'bones, by the way...
     
  12. Texas Webb
    Joined: Jan 5, 2010
    Posts: 5,110

    Texas Webb
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I think you mean caster.
     
  13. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 2,374

    1946caddy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from washington

    Your correct, should read caster.
    And here I thought I could make it the entire year without a mistake. :oops:

    I'll probably use these to attach bones to frame.
    https://welderseries.com/-p51209625
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2018
  14. dmdeaton
    Joined: Nov 25, 2017
    Posts: 502

    dmdeaton
    Member

    I used the same wrong term
     

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