Technical photos 1932 rails with 1936 bones

I've got a 1932 ch***is and want to install a ford 9" with 1936 bones I'm looking for photos or links to builds
Thank you Guy

 

They sometime interfere with the frame at the kick up. You need to mount them low on the axle. The low mount lets them clear and it also reduces the bending stresses by aligning them more with the thrust of the wheel. It also lowers the car. Use a 40 front spring. They ride great with them. The mount holes in the bones should be at least 2 1/2 inches below the centerline of the axle.

 

I'm in the middle of that process right now and don't know if I will be able to use the 36 bones and get the car as low in the back as I want it to be. The stock kickup needs to be recontoured and the c-notch raised vertically to get the stance down. The 36 bones mount pretty far outboard. We'll see. A LOT of guys have done this over the years it seems and there seems to be good info here on the HAMB.

 

Doing the same with my Tudor project.

 

Don't know if this will help you, but I have a 36 rear axle (Banjo) and radius rods under my 32 Tudor car. I reversed the main leaf, then removed 2 more leaves. This lowered the rear almost 4 inches and the ride is excellent. If I ever have to transport fat people in the back seat, I have added air shocks

 

Here's one I did in the past , made more of a ladder bar out of the bones

 

Here's some more shots

 

Last one

 

I had a similar setup but I used the ch***is Eng bolt on mounts for the split radis rods. It Uses aheavy tierod end with a threaded tube. i turned them side ways so the taper pointed up. I had this on a 27 highboy and on my current project 32. It is adjustable and plenty strong enough.

 

Excellent Guys Thanks!!

 

Rusty knows what he is doing. Adding the top bars and webbing is something you need to do.

 

We did this: Fabbed an upper bracket to which the split wishbone bolted (shown here tacked before final alignment and welding)..



Dave

 

I'm not using a '32 frame, but I'm using 36 bones with a real short rear end (modified). I used Pinewood's 35/36 bones mounts (mount tight against the axle) on a 3" axle, with an early ford front spring de-arched. The spring hangers on the bones are forged and my torch would not get them hot enough to change the angle on the spring hangers. This limited the amount of angle I could set the bones at (to keep the spring hangers perpendicular to the axle). I was able to grind a bit of the (Pinewood) mounts away a tad bit so I could mount the bones inboard a bit on the axle. I also cut two saw blade wide slits in the tubes to angle the bones in even more. I ***ume these things might be able to help if you need frame clearance.

Here are some photos from links I saved.

This is lowsquire's car.

 

Excellent Thank You Guys!! Happy Holidays

 

What about tube shocks with this setup, can you guys give me some advice on what you used with pics of the mounts. I used a flattened 40 Ford rear cross member and 40 Ford
front spring.

 

Im in the process of using a 36 spring & bones but rather than heat & bend the spring mount on the bones I used a cutoff wheel & cut the mount lengthwise & after I mock up bones in correct position Ill just TIG weld it back onto the bones & hope to use the 1/2" hole in bones for rear shock mounting have some Speedway shock bolts for that try

 

My kid used the shock kit from Posies on a '36 rear and flattened '40 X-member in original '32 rails. 'Bones cleared the frame OK.

Please disregard the ****py welds from the previous owner, they were ground down or ground out and re-welded as needed.