pic request for 30/31 ford roadsters please

i have a 30/31 ford roadster body that is going to be my next project. i would like to see pics of projects and completed cars for ideas please. thanks

 

Google carnut there is a **** load of pictures.

 

Here's mine!

 

i would really prefer the hambs members cars, please

 

heres mine..its a bit further along now, engine's in, etc....

 

Nice, looks awesome, what motor are you going with? A flathead right?

Me-oh

 

ha, nope...just a 63 vette 327-3 deuce combo, has 461x heads, and a rumpity cam with a muncie 4 speed. I like flatheads though..maybe next time.

 

Yeah, It is

 

Here's mine, it will be nailhead powered

 

That's cool, keep up the good work!

Me-oh

 

This one belongs to a friend of mine..........

 

The three quarter front view, before the grille shell was dropped to gain a better looking hood line.

Last pic, as it is now.

 

I just wish I could find a fairly nice and together 30-31 roadster body without resorting to Brookville. Good looking roadster c9. About what I want to do but with a model a frame. I don't suppose anyone has a 30-31 roadster body they want to sell reasonable???

 

Here's mine---Brian

 

People ask me when i'm gonna finish it and i tell them i can't improve on it.......

 

Thanks.

You may want to consider what a gennie A body costs nowadays, how much of the bodywork you can do and how much you have to farm out.
Makes the Brookville a much more palatable deal in a lot of cases.

When I started this car - 5years ago, I know, it's going slow, but I do other things* - I found a pair of 29 roadster bodies which would have been ideal for the lakes car I envisioned.
Fairly rusty, only one had quarter panel rust-through and you got a pair of coupe panels with the body - which may or may not have worked, don't know for sure there.
Price was right, $500. each.
I turned them down due to the work required to get them up to a reasonable level body-wise.

An acquaintance bought one, stuck it on a 32 frame, SBC, T-350 etc. and about the time I moved to Arizona it was bare metal & primer and looking pretty good.

In a way, I'm sorry I didn't buy the two 29's, but I'm more than happy with the Brookville.
Officialness with the real steel deal is not a primary thing in my life.

There are some deals out there on restored and not-quite-restored A roadsters.
I'd be inclined to buy one of those, yank the body for the hot rod project, stick a still reasonably easy to find coupe body on it, prime it and sell it.
Then do the re-pro frame bit and all the rest.
I'm guessing you wouldn't come out too far behind.

*Insulating the garage the last few days.
After seing 22 degrees F. inside and 10 degrees outside - a fairly new garage with drywall etc. - one morning and finding it tough to work out there even with a pool of warmth provided by the propane heater I had to do something.
I still have the Ford 9" locker spread all over the workbench, covered with rags and the rags are covered with styrofoam pellets.

 

My Dad's '30



Doug's '30

 

You have a lot of good points c9. I'll go brookville if I have to but I'm still on the lookout for a gennie body. Thanks for the opinions...I really do appreciate other peoples views.

 

het c9 can you tell me a little about your frame? where you got it. if it is a 32 how much did you have to pinch it?
thanks

 

This is my 30 roadster PU. Bob

 

Here are some build pic's of my 30 Roadster PU. Bob

 

Here's a couple for ya

With fenders

Mates car without roof


and with roof, made from a fibergl*** 34 roof modified to fit.



Binga

 

At the risk of being a smart-*** . . . the pic shows the start of the frame.

American Stamping frame rails, Speedway front and rear spreader bars which were used to set the frame up to 32 specs.

There's a lot of info and pics about this, both pinched and un-pinched in the Tech Archives about Rolf's coupe build.

Basics are, I didn't pinch the frame, but I did have to spread the rear frame rails 3/4" outward per side to bring them flush with the inside of the wheel-wells.

You do have to cut a 1" or so notch out of the body at the front of the wheel-well where the well sheet metal kicks in toward the center of the body.
This will allow the body to drop all the way down so as to minimize the mid-frame gap between frame and body due to the 32's swoopy frame and the straight sided bottom of the 30-31's.
You'll end up with a 105" wheelbase with an A crossmember in the usual Deuce front crossmember location and the rear axle centered in the A wheel-well.
The 32 wheelbase is 106" fwiw.

There's more, but those are the basics.
Key point is setting the body longitudinally to where the firewall hood flange sits at the correct transverse distance horizontally from the frame on each side.

Rolf elected to pinch his frame very slightly and he explains why in his website - the address is in his tech article.

In any event, building a 30-31 A on 32 rails is considerably easier than the 29 on 32 rails imo.

 

that is one of the most beautiful 30/31 ford roadsters i have ever seen. i love the roof. i have never seen anything like it!

 

Here's mine. Damn, I wish it were further along!

 

hey cheater casey what engine is that? rest of drivetrain?
thanks c9 for the info

 

Brookville....built it....drove it....sold it. They make a great hotrod body.

 

Man oh man I saw this roadster today what a bad*** car!

 

I always like seeing your car Mr. Hatch.
Hope for the future vis a vis my 31.

Anyway, looks like you're running a round tubing A windshield frame.
Do these frames have provisions for weatherstripping?

I'm still dinking around with the home-made 1/2" x 1" rect tubing 32 style windshield frame on my 31 and need to have some kind of weather stripping on it.

Th 32's are easy with their channel on the underside and outside of the verticals that take the "T" shaped weatherstrip, but I don't have room for that once the gl*** et al goes in on my home-madeframe.

 

C9....Glad ya like seeing it. It's got a great new owner and it's getting enjoyed daily. Yes....the windshield frame(round tube) has weatherstripping, but not good enough. I finished it with 3m stripcaulk in the corners and with the top up, it stayed pretty dry inside.