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Projects Picked up my first project! 56' Chevy 150

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by braydenh, May 25, 2016.

  1. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,989

    NashRodMan
    Member

    Just saw this thread now. Nice car and congrats. Lots of good advice here. For the urine smell...I had the same issue over this winter. Went to the pet store and bought the urine odor killer. Works great. May take a few times though. After taking out all the carpet and seats I scrubbed all the metal and let it sit. Repeat till smell is gone. Good luck!
     
  2. braydenh
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 27

    braydenh

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Started painting some things today. Wire wheel on a drill, sprayed black. Keeping it simple. Will be wire wheeling entire frame, wheel wells, engine bay (minus the firewall of course) and re spraying black paint to clean it up. The cars not entering Sema, I just want it to look good to the average eye!


    [​IMG]

    Also decided to swap a 350 v8, and turbo 350. It will be cost efficient ( parts wise ) to do the swap, rather than rebuild the 235 I got. And a hell of a lot easier to find parts for it as well.


    IG : braydenh56
     
  3. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,566

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    You can buy aftermarket side mounts for the engine and a rear crossmember for trans with brackets to bolt/weld to frame for it, but Ive used the factory stools you have already, you will just need to move them back into the v8 position holes there in the frame, you will need to get you some correct v8 motor mount brackets that bolt to the front of the motor but I have drilled the 6 cylinder ones to work.
    If you can come across a 80 or so back camaro, nova etc trans crossmember, that is what you need and what some suppliers even sell in the after market kit. you would also need to fab (drill) a couple short pieces of angle iron to make your side brackets to bolt/weld to inner frame rail. (look at pics of a kit)
    The side engine mounts would probably be better since there is so much distance between points of front stool mounts and rear trans mount but Ive done three like that and seen several and had pretty good luck so....but then mine were pretty mild,
    I probably would prefer side mounts if I were gonna be gettin very rough with it.

    I also think there is a bell housing attached type kit, kind of like factory, that you can put on the 350, never used one of those yet tho.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2016
    braydenh likes this.
  4. That 350 can be made to look more period correct with a set of valve covers and a few other goodies.
     
    braydenh likes this.
  5. Short of blowing it all apart to paint every last piece, the scrub and paint process is going to be a respectable "driver" job! It's easy to roll down that hill. Pull the sheetmetal. Bust loose all the fasteners, buy all new ones. Then stress out over every little splash pan and bracket... Good way to have it apart for a long time. But I build slower than snail shit, so your results will vary!
    You'll be so glad to drive your car, little stuff won't bother ya.
    The HAMB is pulling for you to scrap those wheels!
     
  6. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,887

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    Get it running and hit the outside with some light cut compound and some polish, youll have something to enjoy for more than the summer, nice solid start
     
  7. jeffd1988
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 537

    jeffd1988

  8. jeffd1988
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 537

    jeffd1988

    Posting this to really help for smell.and Sanitize.get this at your local home depot.
     
    luckythirteenagogo likes this.
  9. braydenh
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 27

    braydenh

    Thanks jeffd1988, interior work is still a couple weeks away, or until I can't take the smell in my garage any more. Hah!


    IG : braydenh56
     
  10. Subscribed!

    Your car is looking great. It cleaned up really nice.

    I replaced the broken 235 in my truck with a 261 and the original 3 speed now I'm going the V8/700r4 route. I wish I did the V8 right off the bat. You will make alot more power for alot less money than the inline-6.
     
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  11. jeffd1988
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 537

    jeffd1988

    No problem im subscribed here on this post. Your car has come along way with just a clean up on that engine bay. Love it. Looking good.
     
    braydenh likes this.
  12. mcnally351
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 448

    mcnally351
    Member
    from boston

    Nice start. Cool build
     
    braydenh likes this.
  13. bostonhemi
    Joined: Dec 1, 2011
    Posts: 707

    bostonhemi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great. love the 55-57 chevys
     
  14. haileyp1014
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 935

    haileyp1014
    Member
    from so cal

    image.jpeg
    That is good stuff,used it on rental home after filthy tennants.states it kills AIDS/hiv.
    Seen this on Cl for $3000.4 door to two door.
     
    jeffd1988 likes this.
  15. ironman3452
    Joined: Jun 1, 2016
    Posts: 2

    ironman3452

    64 at home 1.jpg 64 at home 2.jpg 64 at home 3.jpg 20160527_163058.jpg here is my 64 panel found her in a field, she had been there since 1997, now she is home, and the fun begins
     
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  16. Flamed48
    Joined: Apr 19, 2011
    Posts: 686

    Flamed48
    Member

    Here's a bitchin 150
     

    Attached Files:

  17. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,566

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    That could be cool if you could get all that spray paint junk or whatever it is off, you need to probably start you own thread dedicated to it, I like the old lettering even tho I cant make out what its says............you could fix the bad spots on the bottom and blend them in with the patina it has under all the funk after you get the funk cleaned off.
     
  18. Umbra
    Joined: May 15, 2015
    Posts: 38

    Umbra

  19. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 13,613

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    That More Door has been floating around for a while. Seen at Pomona Swap Meet. Needs lot's of TLC.
     
  20. braydenh
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 27

    braydenh

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Little update : removed all drum brakes, brake lines, started to wire brush the engine bay (leaving the firewall blue and respraying where needed) currently sanding frame and repainting black.

    List of to do's: find a rear diff that will work, find a disc conversion kit in Canada ( our dollar is bad compared to the American dollar), front v8 motor mounts for a SBC, transmission, finish sanding and painting underside and frame and engine bay.


    IG : braydenh56
     
  21. philo426
    Joined: Sep 20, 2007
    Posts: 2,097

    philo426
    Member

    ...and fix the rot above the headlight eyebrows after the running gear has been sorted out.
     
  22. Torkwrench
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 2,729

    Torkwrench
    Member

    What's wrong with the rear axel?
     
  23. braydenh
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 27

    braydenh

    Torkwrench : ill need to have something with 370 ratio, I'm thinking a 9" Ford. I do a lot of highway driving to get into town.


    IG : braydenh56
     
  24. A 3.70 ratio was available to fit our '56 chev axle housing. If you do alot of highway driving, I would think you would want a taller gear, like the 3.08. Do you know your ratio now?
     
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  25. braydenh
    Joined: May 9, 2016
    Posts: 27

    braydenh

    No I don't! Haven't had time to really get into that. Been busy with work and hunting down parts!


    IG : braydenh56
     
  26. While the '55-'57 axle housings will fit in a '56 because of the rear leaf springs, the pumpkin/differential from '55-'64 will fit. Available ratios (from memory) 3.08, 3.23; 3.55, 3.70, 4.11 & 4.56. The commonly found gear ratios found in '56's are 3.55's, and 4.11 (overdrive cars). 3.23 debuted in '57 when Chevy went to the 14" wheel and 26" diameter tire. If your car isn't an overdrive car, and the rearend is as-delivered from Chevy, it's likely a 3.55. Gas mileage or low highway rpm guys look for the 3.08's & 3.23's. Performance oriented guys want the 4.11's and maybe the 4.56's.

    If you would choose to put a different gear ratio in your original chevy axle housing, look for a differential from '57-'64, as the diff has thicker webbing which translates to more strength. The weak point on them is the spider gears on the non-posi's which fall victim to sticky tires and hard starts. Otherwise they are pretty dependable as they are essentially the same axle that was behind the 409 equipped cars.

    Gotta56forme/Scott
     
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  27. Torkwrench
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 2,729

    Torkwrench
    Member

    It looks like your 56 was a factory 235 six and 3 speed, or 3 speed overdrive. If it was a 3 speed, it would already have a 3:70 rear end. If it was an overdrive, it would be a 4:11. 1955 and 1956 PowerGlide cars had 3:55 gears. If you wanted something higher geared, 3:36's are very common in 58 - 64's. Those were mostly in Powerglide and TurboGlide cars.

    As previously mentioned the 57 - 64 center section case is beefier than the 55 - 56's, with the Posi units being much stronger than the open differentials. The open rear ends will stand up to some abuse, if one is careful and isn't running slicks, or sticky tires. The 55 - 64 Chevy rear axel is a good, tough, and dependable rear axel. In general, the stories of them being weak are greatly exaggerated. It's difficult to believe that some guys recommend swapping an S-10 rear axel into 55 - 57 Chevys.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2016
    volvobrynk and braydenh like this.
  28. The seats in my '59 Ford were mainly dirty, no bad smell, just musty. I used this upholstery product, Tuff Stuff. It foams up and lifts the dirt out of the seat. I gave it 2 applications and it worked well, and the interior smells great. I took everything out of it, primed and painted the whole interior. The carpet and padding also hold a lot of stink if you still have those.
     
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  29. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 13,613

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Still running the stocker in mine (avatar photo). It's all in how you drive it and mine is a pedal car. Not to say that I haven't side stepped and paid the price. But I knew what I was doing therefore no blame. Those stockers despite there age will give you many years and miles of service. I drive mine anywhere lonnggggggggg or short distances.
     
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  30. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    I basically agree on keeping a stock rear end for a street car. But, there are some rear end gears that are stronger due to the thickness of the ring gear; 3.70 and 4.11 factory gears have really narrow ring gears. That can result in "deflection" where you get aggressive with it. 3.55 and 4.56 ring gears are fairly thick by comparison. An open carrier has 2 spider gears, a factory style Positraction has FOUR spiders, double the strength. If you run an automatic transmission, the rear end will be fine; get aggressive with a manual shift transmission, and something, sometime, will break. My Delivery has a stock rear end housing, a Positraction unit, 4.88 gears, billet caps, and Yukon axles. It also has traction bars to help with wheel hop (to constantly load, then unload the rear end, because of wheel hop, leads to broken rear ends). I just sold the Olds/Pont complete rear end I had for the Delivery; I just decided to keep the car basically, factory part stock. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
    braydenh likes this.

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