Pictures! Rust repair on a 1933 Plymouth Project

Ive been working on a little rust repair on a 1933 Plymouth, and thought some of you guys might like to see it and get a little better idea on the work that is done at Siebert Custom Paint and Body.

It has rust in all four corners, in front and behind the doors. The p***enger side was worse, and is were I started. Made the patches using the beadroller with a combination of the bead and flange roll, and then the bending break with the fingers moved back for a radius on the bottom bend. The rear patch needed some curve, so the shrinker made short work of that. Got them to fit nice, and then took my time welding them in to prevent any unnecessary warpage, and a little hammer and dolly work here and there while welding and after I was finished, along with the shrinking disc to help with the final smoothing.

There is a nice album with these pictures and more at http://www.siebertcustom.com/Current.html
(you can also start a slideshow that works pretty slick to view them all)

Click on the 1933 Plymouth for a more complete album regarding the Plymouth and these repairs. If people are interested, I will continue to update with more progress pics when I get the chance. I didn't start this post for an entire project build log, but more for some of the rust repair involved in the project.

If you want to see some other rust repair, there is a Camaro with a pretty major case of cancer and botched repairs that needed fixed also on the Current Projects page. Of course more car albums to come when we round up all the pictures of past projects.

Brian
www.siebertcustom.com

 

Great fabrication, this is also the type of work I enjoy doing. Looking good!

 

Thanks farmer, I do enjoy it as well! I am working on the other side today.

 

I almost got the other side done Thursday, I should be able to get it finished tomorrow as long as there aren't too many distractions.

 

Heres a few more pictures of the Drivers side repairs. Got it finished this morning.


Check out www.siebertcustom.com for more pics and details of the work done there.

So far on for photo albums, we have current projects as 32 Ford, 33 Plymouth, 51 Mercury and a 69 Camaro. Finished car albums that we have up are 29 Model A Phaeton, 32 Ford, 23 T bucket, 29 Model A sedan, 47 Chevy and a 40 Ford. You traditional guys will probably really like the 29 Model A sedan.

If you check any of them out, let me know what you think, or if you have website suggestions, as we are working on it.

Brian =)

 

That looks great!

 

Thanks 56! For anybody needing work done, there will be an opening in the shop before too long if anybody is needing work done. Call and talk to Perry JR, and tell him your from the HAMB.

Brian =)

 

I have updated the photo album on the current projects page on the website, with more rust repair, cowl filling, body work and misc other stuff if you are interested. This is Perry Sr's project, and he is doing most of it, I just helped out with the rust repair in the lower corners of the body, filling the cowl vent, rear pan and straightening some of the panels.

Brian =)

http://www.siebertcustom.com/Current.html

 

Great work.

 

If you were in california I would definately have my car occupying that spot! Keep up the good work.

 

Bring it on down, im sure labors cheaper here than there. We have done quite a few cars from far distances.

 

I would but couldnt afford to get it out there haha

 

I figured I would add filling in the cowl also.

You can see in the pictures how it was cut out, piece fitted and then tacked in. Then by skipping around, I usually tack to were it is within maybe 1 1/2" between tacks, then start the tack in the middle of the gap, or beside existing tack (ive done both), skip gap, skip gap, skip gap, tack, skip gap, skip gap, skip gap, tack, so on to minimize heat build up, while cooling down the panel in between tacks with a blow gun. Keeping my movements consistently as even as possible. after each p*** around the panel, its nice to grind down excessive weld height and hammer and dolly stretch the tacks back out in between p***es. Doing it this way allows you to control the warpage and deal with it in small amounts, as opposed to dealing with a bunch all at one time at the end.

I usually do not make welds longer than a 1/4" as if you do longer, then the heat builds fast. By doing this, you can minimize warpage, grind the welds (without building up heat) and then stretch the weld area with hammer and dolly, and then touch up with the shrinking disc to help lower any over hammered areas and level it all out. Then a minimal amount of filler, or some polyester, or high build primer.

You can see in pic 3, were I have made tacks, stopped, ground them, hammered and then made another p*** around the panel with new unground tacks. Picture 4 is after a handful more p***es, however I waited to grind and planishing until after that picture. You will also notice that I did skip a couple gaps (as a couple are single tacks instead of multiple) because the gaps ended up being smaller than the others, so I skiped some to even out the gaps for later p***es. The more consistent the better, but the worlds not going to end if you have to compromise a little.

Brian

 

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Your metal skills are great, I like it. There's nothing more satisfying than metal work IMHO. Keep up the good work!