As I will build my 32 in purist late 40’s race style ( not Bonneville ) The question is how common it was to pinching the frame back in the days ? This was a thing I did not know as I always thought, and did like the 32 frames both front and rear original. So when this idea came stronger to build up a hot rod I was not shore on a 5w or s 3w but after seen Larry Rolling's coupe the card was on the table. Took me several pictures before I actually saw that the frame was modified. After realise that, it no going back. I really like the slick design when hood goes equal to frame and grille ends in front and the a heawy std axel. And on rear its as importation to frame just comes out under body nice and ends with a tube bar. After look into to bought a body or a car it went fast is over my budget at the moment. A Henry hot rod is at least 50K and can easy also be 80K or more today, and I need chop and could seldom use that chassie. If a Brookville body was on the car I could sell that chassie, but the body would then be priced as a new one ( based on the pricing I see on add's ) The B-ville body is now equal in price unassembled as assambled and get close to 30K less extras. A custom chopped 3w body on a bare custom frame rails as I like will cost me 1 million SEK and I will not pay that ( 10 SEK = 1 USD ) A car do not cost those money so it's not make any sense. -So I need wait and see. But the idea of start up with a chassie came then up. I has actually found one with all parts I need overhere in Sweden. Price is high but might be Ok. One friend told me don’t mess with the chassie now, just make it ready. But I really like the pinching in design. Question is how to do it front and especially in the back - and how common was it do this type of things back in late 40's ?
I don't know who was first to pinch the highboy frame rails, but I would guess it was the 1970's or later.
Oh, I thought this was old tricks. A street rod for me is a car with a CSB/aut and cousy interiour, tilt sateering wheel and fenders. So Larry did go modern ways. Well it's free to do whatever, but I thought it was older ideas.
I would bet the Doane Spencer roadster was the first to pinch the front frame rails. But even after he did it early, there were VERY few until the 80's or so. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ncer-roadster-from-52-69-more-details.536915/
I've done countless 1.75 pinches but the full pinched frames are few and far between. I agree Spencer was one of the first.
The slight pinch just eliminates the gap between the grille and frame rail. Leaves the horns on and all. Makes things cleaner. The full pinch (horns removed) makes the rails fully hid behind the grille for a drastic smoothing.
The last time I checked, the body is about 25K . I think it was an additional $7500 if you wanted it alreadt chopped. Bare frame rails are about $800 .
Oh, I will learn ; 'Roller' ( thank's ) Pinch is clean, really like it. Yes body is at 25K but if you ask B-ville now it's near 30K, then add all extras ( I need/like ) and firewall, hood, grille etc and their chop is to small for me so get a pro shop chop/tilt and other works needed to body as fill the roof etc I got a price at 25K for that and then add the frame with modifications I like and cross members x3. Crate is 700 USD and add freight cross US. Then freight to Sweden and taxes near 5% and top of all this add 25% in sales tax, and that get me around 1 million SEK or more. That is a totally ridicules price for a repro body. I has a buddy here got a older street rod from USA 32 5w Henry not chopped with a original frame and fender with a CSB/auto and he bought it ca 4-5 years ago at 250.000 SEK so say that exchange rate today mean 25K. Compare that to me at 1 million SEK for body and frame, he got at 1/4 of that a complete car. Shore can't be compare but anyway. I never seen a Henry 32 at that pricing now. Remember Swede's like this cars so he payed market price. If I now start with a frame I really need look this over as it is a 3w or no body ( and I need a body ) and I has look over several alternatives. -Best might be to wait, save up and bought a done deal car.
Take a vacation to the US and attend a large event with lots of the type of 32 you like in attendance. Bring a bank verification letter with you, and start approaching the owners of the cars you prefer. Then you will be money ahead, and can drive the car all the way back to the Port of New Jersey.
While it may be a more costly start than a fresh build, buying a finished car or someone else’s incomplete project to use as a starting point for the car you want t build will often result in a lower finished project cost. Whether in the US or elsewhere the suggestion from alchemy is a good one.
I don't think you are going to find a steel body 32 complete and save any money. You are facing a similar conumdrum to what American buyers face when considering steel vs fiberglass. The difference is the resale value once its complete. You might find one at an auction thats complete but thats taking a chance that you would be the high bidder. You can bid by phone at the Mecum auctions. If you win, they probably can help you with shipping arrangements, as they sell a lot to overseas buyers. At the Street Rod Nationals which is the premier event for them, approximately 10,000+ cars attend each year. I would hazard a guess that the single most represented car there is the 1932 Ford, and the majority of them are 3W coupes. Probably a few hundred of them...... and I'd guess that at least 75% of them are fiberglass. Most of those owners seem quite pleased with what they have. Would they prefer steel........probably most will, but when they are done, its really hard to tell that they ain't steel. Put steel fenders, grill shell, running boards on them. You might want to come to Louisville Ky for the SRN this August and have a good look.....and maybe you can find a complete car that you like. Brookville will also be there so you can talk pricing first hand. As far as your chop goes, too much often ruins the look.....unless its gonna be a flat out race car look.
I think the OP has been looking at The Rolling Bones for inspiration. I have a friend who is close to the Bones boys and he says their current builds are running in the neighborhood of 200 to 250K. That'll make you pucker up a little.
I would prefer a Henry but realise the issues, but the frame and parts I like I found that more easy. I can live with a Brookville and a new frame. ( but no fibreglass for me ) One way is has a pro built it say in 2 years and part payments. I do engine, details, paint and doing that idea I'm Ok with new made parts as the Winters in rear etc, but still a flathead but I might use a C10 transmission, but the original 32/36 bones. When it comes to price tag at 200K or more I'm out. I has several ideas but one big factor is the time is not right as both high prices and exchange rate. One way is go to a big car meet and see what happens.
I know it's 'glass, but appears to be a good value: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...3-window-hi-boy-fs-trades-considered.1203961/
On a 5.5” chop for a 32 3w coupe, well me I think it is way cool with the tilted front window ( as ex how Larry builded his car ) but this is personal. On a chop over that it goes over to a salt flat racer. Do a 3” chop on the style I like is to soft.
You have two threads going , both covering pretty much looking for a car, This one for sale in Va Just seen last week @ a show, Pic dont do it justice, do not care for paint scheme , this Guy always selling 32s. Location is Manassas ,What yr budget in US $, 40,50,60,70?
As I recall, on 3 Window Larry's rod, there is no door glass as the chop is so severe, there is no way to get the glass inside the door. Just something to consider.
I can have a high budget as it seem needed, but even if a perfect car in my style I’m kind of limited on haul it out direct. It need be stretched out and I like that road. Seen many cars from 60K and up ( Henrys ) but it dont make sense as most parts will not fit my ides. I pretty much now has some alternatives. 1. To find a Henry ( older hot or street rod ) but at my budget I hardly think I find one, as they are to expensive. If a good price I need go over fast and its not that easy by banking either ( did it before in racing ) 2. Get a chassie in parts ( as I has found here ) I need and work it over and try find a Henry. Problem is body is hard to find and expensive and it will be work and chop etc. Work needed to be solved in one way or another. 3. Stay calm and wait see what happens or try seek a more complete original Henry. Who knows, I’m get lucky ( still body works ) 4. Stay calm see if prices get lower, as I doubt but who knows. 5. Try get a deal with a builder that help me get the body/frame as I like and strech it out. If so a Brookville. But as one pointed out 200-250K, no way. Contect. I don’t pay 50-60-70-80 for a car that has to be rebuild. 35-45K maybe but that get me no 3w Henry older street rod I can use much stuff from. One problem I has is body works. A chop maybe I can get help here by friends. Frame/engine is no problem.
I look like I might find the first step in the project. Its a traditional chassie with lots of cool stuff. The body is is a nut to crack but I take of that later om and must think ’positive’. Parts is a original frame and pedals, dash, firewall, 25 louvers hood, grille, 35 rear axle and bones and Halibrand, 32 front heavy axel, 46 original 100 HP flathead, Edelbrock heads, Lincoln front brakes, 40 Ford rear brakes, Lincoln 39 transmission. I really enjoy this set-up. As I’m sold on pinching front frame and adjust the rear - even if that might be off the style the racers did on the late 40’s ( must be very uncommon if so ) But I know the trick was out there at that era and I will use hydralic shocks ( even if I do like it more and more the Henry std shocks ) I will not drive this thing hard but experianced people tell me go wise. -But its a long drive until I might found a body. But I fell great about this move.. -Like to thank people here for good advise.
There is an old saying regarding 32s, "you didn't pay to much, you just bought it a little early". I hope that translates well?
Would it be possible to tack the top of door frame, make a pattern for the glass then install the finished glass down in the door/door channels? Weld the top of the frame to end up with a window that works?
This coupe is also slick, Dennis Saum’s 3w. https://www.hopupmagazine.com/blog/2017/8/22/dennis-saum-1932-ford-outakes I know Gary at Cornhusker build the chassie. It’s neat with the pinching-in frame and idea of shocks ( I would like to leave shock out, but not the best solution ) and not see the steering arm is nice on this car as well. I’m not to found on std or the sprint car deal with the arm outside body. Rear of the frame/tank is also a case I has to sleep on. Saum’s car has std rear on frame and tank. Sad to cut up a old Henry frame in front and back but... Question. Why is the front wishbone so low mounted ? -Is it a design effect from side of car or better geometry idea ?
I did not build Dennis Saum's car. I just did the chassis. Dennis did dam near everything else himself in his shop in Marquette NE. I want no credit for something I didn't do.
I did mean the chassie as it was topic on pinching the frame. ( still a neat car ! ) -Why was the idea to has the bones in front lower under the frame ?
The Jalopy Journal
