I like the rear tank as it leaves a lot more room in the trunk for travel necessities. Some of the build decisions are dictated by how you intend to use the completed rod. Look ahead and be honest with your intent.
I'm more into the correct era details, therefore I really not like telescope shocks either but guess I will has those. I will only do very short rides in town with this car, but I will use it hard, no race of course but I like be able to use it. If one look at the chop ideas, transmission, engine alternative, rear axle ratio this is no car going to the Riviera ;in France with ; -) Std frame and tank rear is Ok, but it shore is neat trimmed - but I'm hapless lost on pinching in the front. I know the correct 40's style is to has the frame original and the A-Ford rear cross member. But right now I think the front must be the way I like it best.
Yes, understand, thanks. Another question. The end of the bones, was end joints the way in this era or should 'tractor' ends be cool ? Tractor ends is a ball on the bone and and bolted cast iron holder in 2 piece around the ball. I like the cast design and rivets.
Here you go. Split Wishbone Kit with Bungs and Rebuilt Early Ford Tie Rod Ends | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)
Here is the 2-piece cast design ex Ferguson used on the 40's. Ball in bone is at 1.37" Could look cool.
I think in my five decades of looking at hot rods and reading old magazines, I've only seen a ball and socket on a split wishbones a half dozen times. Maybe it was more common on VERY early race cars (20's), but not on hot rods of the 40's-50's era. Hot rodders back then weren't in it for oddity, they just wanted the suspension to work and let them go fast. Welding the end of a tie rod into the cuttoff wishbones was easy and quick. Not saying you couldn't do it (heck I've thought of doing that myself), but don't think it was commonplace. (this is where Anthony Myrick proves me wrong)
This is where we delve into the minutiae of the hobby, when I was doing living history (just like the 1750s bro) we called these folks "thread counters" because they had to get even the smallest detail "right". At some point it becomes the tail wagging the dog and the fun is lost.
Yes maybe more early solutions, but could still be a neat design. I thought about stuff like this on this car. Style is pre 50's, and as I don't mind the 100 HP engine from 46 so the parts need be around 47-49' ish. As it is hot rodding I could actually do it from my head how I might had done with junkyard parts if I was around back then. Even if things was not done that way ( normally ) I could still pinch in the frame and cut the rear frame off etc. Maybe I saw it, like it, did it but I could not use a CSB or a better transmission as I'm still at 1948 vs parts aviable. -Do I see that wrong ? Or damage the style in a negative way ? I like to see the parts aviable as the book of law in this build-up. P.S. It still can still be fun, I love details - can't help it ;-) Common sense tell me use a LS1 and a modern automatic, but that take the fun off my way see it.
I did my last 32 pickup with 32-34 tie rod ends both on the wishbones and tie rod and drag link. I'm using Walden's early style stainless tie rod ends on my new deuce highboy sedan on the hairpins and tie rod and drag link.
You are seeing it your way, nothing wrong about that. It all depends on how you want to use it. Most all the Rolling Bones cars run T5 5 speeds and they HAMMER them down the road at 80+mph. Every year heading to Bonneville they have a large caravan from New York picking up others all across the country on their way.
Yes thoose 5 speeds is the way to go. Maybe I change my mind as this is my first hot rod and all I like hear about now is Lincoln transmission.. But I feel pretty shore on the style and I will nor drive to far. But as always when time and experiance come in one think different. This 34 rod ends is shore ugly, but maybe cool in its own way !
I had a experianced hot rodder today in shop and we talked rodends and he mean ball type is older as the 20’s and the std 34 is more 30’s so modern rodends is correct late 40’s style and maybe the most smooth aswell.
3w Hank its good that you want a Close to a period correct HR pre 50 or Pre War ,I had one ,32 , If you have to buy parts out wright for that error your more likely adding close to 25-30k more on to price of the body & chop unless yr not wanting a close to perfect one,most pre war where beater builds . I think a set of Four rebuilt friction shocks are 1k know
Eddy, So you mean work on chop etc is add 25-30K, well I had that info to but I also heard there are shops doing less that money. I has some good friends here very experianced so once I has a body I think I can solve it here. Hard now is the exchange SEK vs USD that our money is less worth, and I also hear of 150 USD by the hours or more and that is way to high for me in a project like this. I has funds but I'm not loaded. I has 2 hands and run a own shop in the CNC and this machines and tools aint cheap and I do parts Nascar etc, so how can a hammer and and a grinder machine be higher, but of course market set the pricetag. But this my hobby so I'm limited, thats a fact.
it's hard to see how your SEK could be worth less right now than our US dollar, when you drop a dollar on the ground it ain't worth the effort to pick it up
Consider using the Armstrong shock from MG, triumph etc, they look right at home on a period car, some are externally adjustable too.
4 inch chop on a 3 window around here is in the vicinity of 5,000.00. 5 window and sedan a little more. Also depends whether your leaning the posts or stretching the top. OP should do his research on the frame. If he goes back in the Rolling Bones archives they had a detailed series on how they build a frame.
I have only pinched a frame to make it fit the body properly. For example a T on a druce frame I like the frame rails to be toward the outer edges of the body and a little pinch is necessary to follow the cowel. Pinching the rear becomes necessary to get it under the turtle deck. Just to muddy up the waters I started doing this in the late '60s and learned from the guys who had been building since the '30s. I suppose they were not traditional rodders they just did what they thought was smooth.
Dick Megugorac (Magoo)was well known for pinching his '32 frames to accommodate the 28/29 roadster body's in the late 70's. HRP
I was lucky enough to get what was left of this car. No drivetrain or wheels for that matter but the first things I did was to change the wishbone attachment and drop the steering box. That and weld up about 25-30 unused holes in the frame. The car was built in about 50.
Intresting and my guess things went all over in those days. I think I will do around 80% what was common in those days and has my own 20%. I'm after a slick coupe.
Here is a application of modern shock that might can be used. Maybe for a pinched in frame and CC distance of the std ball for shocks and the width of the grille get to wide angle. -Just look over ideas for fun.
Iversen Orginals prototype for the Deuce Steel frame that Hotrod and Custom Stuff sells, pinched,stretched 3” and rails reworked to get the car lower. Also check some of the treads on Deuce Steel Frames
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