Technical Pinion on a bare chassis vs pinion on a complete car

I cant be the first schlep to set a pinion angle on a ch***is without the body, gl***, interior ETC. in other words a complete car. So for those of you who have, did you take angle measurements during the ch***is build and then again after the car was completed. Curious to find out if any angles changed on you... if they did and by how much.

My scenario......builing a '36 standard 5/W Chevy coupe. With the engine and trans(SBC/T5) as the only significant weighty items on my ch***is I have the following.

4 degrees down on the ****** and hypothetically 4 degrees up on the rear(haven't welded the spring purches yet so I can change it) Can I expect either of those 4 degree angles to change?

To complication things I have untrimmed coil springs in the front right now which will be trimmed to ride height after the car is complete.

Thanks,

Chuck

 

Your pinion and tailshaft angles sound good. Any offset-to-the-side addition?
Chev...longitudinal leaf pair out back? Might try the olde sandbags-in-da-trunk
ballasting method. Can the coils can be pulled, and the front blocked up to ride hight?

 

Any change in the rear height will thusly change the angle of the frame and then again thusly the angle of the Trans. So be close now,

If have zero pinion adjustment in the rear, don't weld it up yet.

 

If you have the engine and trans in then your angles will not change much when you add the body since the body weight will be pretty evenly distributed front to rear. The rear end is unsprung weight so it's effect on ride height won't change.

 

Right, not much rear only change from the body as long as your close.


Jacking the ride height around in the rear is a different story.

 

The only ride height change in the rear will come from leaf spring break-in. There is a lateral offset from the diff of about 5/8-3/4 in. and yes I can take out the coils and block the control arms. So now that we believe it will change slightly at best should I drop the diff angle to maybe 2 degree......or am I thinking in the wrong direction and actually have to raise the rear pinion angle from 4 to 6.(approx) to allow for final ride weight.

 

What I do is to ***emble the rear end without welding anything, bolt the ubolts tight enough so the pumpkin doesn't move, continue on with the car till most of the weight is in it, then crawl under, loosen u bolts and set the pinion opposite to the tailshaft on ******. Tack the mounts, haul it out, weld it and reinstall.

 

That makes too much sense....I want to cheat and do it now damn it!!!

 

The only way to cheat is to copy the last one.