Technical Pinion seal leaking....again

You don’t need a big torque wrench for a crush sleeve, there is no torque spec to tighten the but too. You keep tightening until you get the proper rotational torque, which you will need a dial torque wrench for. 8-14in/lbs is right with used bearings as well.


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This is what I use.

 

You are setting preload on tapered roller bearing much like front wheel bearings. I have found heating and stretching the old crush sleeve is easier than crushing a new one.

 

I only use Vaseline in that O-Ring. Vaseline as in "Vaseline Petroleum Jelly for the other side of baby's belly." Vaseline.

 

I start crushing them in the press, then get out the big breaker bar, with the yoke in a sturdy bench vise. I also made a tool to hold the yoke when the rear is still in the car, just some s**** metal and drilling and cutting to make it fit two of the u bolt holes

Crush sleeves are a pain, solid shimmed spacers are a different pain. Different uses for each...crush sleeve for stockers, solid for stuff I'm going to work on again.

 

My reasoning also for using the solid spacer. I dont mind fiddling with it initially to get it right as long as I know what preload setting to use.

 

There are sleeves for the yokes to take care of wear issues (I'm going to have to do this on the '31). Going solid spacer on the diff I built for it makes it easy to just remove the yoke, press the sleeve and reinstall without worrying about setting preload again. Solid spacer is more h***le initially, but makes servicing the yoke and pinion seal much easier later in life.

 

I would absolutely never heat and stretch an old crush sleeve!! This will never hold decent preload. I know I sound like a jerk but that’s terrible advice.

Oh and tapered wheel bearings in the front of MOST stuff will actually call for end play, even though most people feel the need to preload them...

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Once the pinion nut is set there isn't and load on the sleeve.

 

Let me clear up one thing, the 15ish in-lbe preload it a rotating preload on the bearing. You will probably have to torque your pinion nut to over 250ftlbs of torque to get that kind of rotating preload. From your description of what the 'end play' was I'd say you had best replace the pinion bearings. The pinion wasn't torqued down proper an dthe that 'up down in & out' motion was in the bearings, like a wheel bearing not tight enough. Since you drove it like that the bearings need replacing. When you replace them you'll need the higher spec (I recall 25inlbs) for bearing preload. Again, this is not the pinion nut torque, you'll have to take that to over 250ftlbs to get the bearing preload of 25inlbs. I use a torque meter and rotate the pinion via a nut & bolt installed the the 'U' bolt hole. To be honest I have a 4' bar attached to the pinion yoke and a 4' handle on a breaker bar turning the pinion nut and get dizzy tightening the pinion nut and I don't think I've ever gotten it to 25inlbs preload. It takes that much effort.
Use red loc***e on the pinion nut threads, it'll loosten on you.

 

What do you think keeps the nut tight? The crush sleeve gives the nut something to tighten against.


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This is sound advice...


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Thanks Guys, I understand the two different TQ's...one for nut, one for preload. I have a small metric beam TQ wrench that I can convert to In/Lbs for the preload.

 

I've never seen a tapered roller bearing application that didn't require a certain amount of preload, depending on the load being applied to or being carried by the bearing. It is the nature of this type of bearing. The heavier the load the more preload. End play will damage a tapered roller bearing.

 

Look up service information for a mid eighties chev pickup 2wd.... again not trying to be a jerk just info, lots call for zero preload or a touch of endplay.


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https://www.timken.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/5556_Bearing-Setting-Brochure-1.pdf

From Timkens web site. Again not trying to argue just info

The reason preload is used in things like differentials is because of the load on them we don’t want things to move, if something moves it would and is usually catastrophic failure.

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This is a Ford diff, not Chevy. That may be fine for some other application but bad info for a Ford.

 

Read the thread before you get involved, we were talking about tapered bearing applications that don’t use preload, his differential issues have been addressed already....I’m well aware of the difference. Maybe we should have started a different thread .

Sorry just saw I forgot to quote the post the above was in response to. I understand how it could have been confusing. No worries Mr T body, my bad.
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Yup

 

Not sure how much room you have in the ch***is, or how much money you want to throw at it, but you could put a high pinion center section in it.

 

Ya know... Thats a heck of an idea. If I find more issues than pinion bearings I plan on replacing the whole 3rd member over the winter. If that ends up being the case, I'll look into what's available. Thanks !!

 

They are super easy to rebuild and set up, keep in mind a high pinion set up will require a new crown and pinion as well


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Your gonna have to remove the pinion carrier to set the preload. Just saying cause it sounds like you would prefer not to.

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You guys have convinced me that I need to remove it so it will come out Sunday. I have a local car show to enter on Saturday so it can just drip till then Removing it will let me get a good look at the internals also to see if there are any other issues. Thanks

 

If it has been run without preload on the bearings I would plan on changing all the bearings while you have it apart, it’s not hard. If you need som guidance just ask. Not knowing your experience of course

We use the 9” to teach students how to set up differentials because it’s so easy to do if you have never done them before.


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I would like to see a crush sleeve that you can stretch

 

You get one red hot it will stretch and this trick came from a tech at Precision Gear when I was setting up a 12 bolt gear in the car 12 bolt sleeves are a *****.

 

what ever how do you control the amount of stretch and how do you pull keeping it straight.to say nothing about the red hot will weaken it ?I never noticed a 10 bolt being any different than 12 that was 40 years ago

 

I have lots of Mech Experience in other areas but have never been in a diff or a transmission, I'm a CNC programmer and Mfg Engineer so I appreciate all the help.
I had another thought ... should start another thread but here goes. If I end up replacing the pinion bearings what are your thoughts on up grading to the larger 'Daytona' support and bearing. The kit is only about $120 and my thoughts are that the larger outer bearing might help with the extreme drive shaft angle.
Will I be able to buy the kit and it bolt right up to my housing and use current Pinion ??
This car is not driven hard at all .
Thanks again

 

If you change the pinion support, you may have to reshim the pinion depth.