Technical Pinion seal leaking....again

In my opinion, the stock 9" setup is more than adequate for your car's weight, power and intended use.

on the other hand (there's always another hand) "anything worth doing is worth doing in excess"

Ray

 

Didnt think of that . Thanks so much

 

A Lot of the info that has been posted is on the money, But let me add this. You can get the shims / crush tube / silicone set perfect, but that grove that is worn into the yoke is still a leak ready to happen. You can go to any good industrial supply house and get a "Speedi-sleeve" It will finish off your job. Here is a link to what I am talking about. Hope this helps. https://www.oit.edu/docs/default-so...*ents/speedi-sleeve-size-listing.pdf?sfvrsn=2

 

Yes Sir, It's already on order That was the first thing I was going to repair, All the other stuff I need to do like bearings and preload has grown from there.
Now, I'm ... Pulling the cartridge ***y, Sleeving the Yoke, New 'Benda' Seal, New Bearings if needed ( probably will anyway) solid spacer, shimmed to proper preload. Possible new pilot bearing. New Oring and New Nut with RED loc***e
I'm hoping running this loose hasnt damaged anything else like the pilot shaft on the end of the Pinion.
Wont know till I tear into it.

 

I agree with Ray, just freshen up what you have and I think you will be fine. Oh and I know you said you ordered a solid spacer and shins but DO NOT try to stretch the crush sleeve. If you have mechanical experience you should be fine. Differential work is a breeze


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Bad information like this that perpetuates itself is frustrating for people trying to learn. Just because someone does this doesn’t make it a good practice no matter how much you argue it....crush sleeves are cheap.


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I would never try to heat and stretch it. No offense to who said it, but....
I was really upset seeing it leaking again but after all the help here, I'm sleeping again
I'm now at the 'cool...something new to learn' point. I really wish I had thought to research more when I first noticed the play but was thinking wheel bearings and it felt like a every so slightly loose wheel bearing so I didnt worry about it. My lack of Experience in this area.

 

Get a new pinion nut, use your old one to get your preload set then when you go together to final time use the new nut.

 

Awesome! Let us know how it turns out!


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Yep... on order. Thanks

 

I'm waiting on hearing back on a bearing source selling a pair on ebay where I have purchased a few other parts. I bet they are made in China, as is most stuff these days. In light of the current World Economy and sourcing, what are your thoughts on Made in China bearings ?

 

just for the hell of it I googled them draw your own conclusion

 

They ****! Try to get USA bearings, they are higher, but we’re still out there,a while back anyhow,not sure now.

Bones

 

Thanks...USA, All the Way. I want this to have the best shot at being repaired so no scrimping on the $$

 

https://www.quickperformance.com/Ford-9-Master-Bearing--Install-Kit-Timken-USA_p_13.html
Try these guys.

 

Thanks !! I already have several parts coming from them. On their site they have a kit with just the bearings for the Daytona set up but I sent them an email asking for a price for (2) M88048 & M88010 Bearings and races for the standard pinion. Waiting on a reply.

 

Just thinking out side the box, If the person that set it up the last time, set it up with a loose pinion, I would want to have a look see what else he did. JMO

 

Trust me...I'm thinking the same thing. It really has me concerned. I bet I pull it and find a messed up pilot shaft and bearing on the end of the pinion and who knows what else. If thats the case, then I'll probably just replace what I can with the pinion cartridge out , get the preload correct and run it as is till winter then pull the whole rear end out and replace the 3rd Member complete.The guys you linked to above have a whole 3rd member complete , ready to drop in for $500.

 

How bad is it dripping?

 

about a 3 " round puddle overnight. Whats worse it that the pinion had lost its preload and there is slight up and down movement which is why I'm tearing it down

 

Must be more than a little play, you better have a look see.
Do let us know what you find.

 

will keep everyone posted and thanks to everyone for all of the help. I feel a lot better about tearing into it.

 

Since you are using the spacer and shims to set the pinion preload may I suggest you start fat with shims so you don't brinnell your new bearings because that set up does give you a torque setting for the pinion nut. Also with new bearings you will want to check your backlash to make sure it is still within range.
(You-Tube is your friend if you can find one you can trust or some consistency.)

 

Thanks for the tips...will do

 

In all my years as a professional auto repair technician I never heard of heating and stretching the crush sleeve. At best that is a terrible idea, as the sleeve sets bearing preload and keeps the pinion nut tight. Don't try it.

 

Not to add more to your grief but I would be looking closely at the teeth on the gears. Check the pinion and ring gears for wear, burring as the pinion gear would be moving in and out and up/ down while driving, changing backslash and pinion depth.

 

With the way things are manufactured these days, I would not ***ume the new pinion bearings and races are necessarily exactly the same as the old ones. Changing the pinion bearings may change the pinion depth and if the third member is not removed there is no way to check the footprint.

 

With the pinion cage out, you can set it on a flat surface and use a depth gauge to measure pinion depth. When you put new bearings in , again measure the depth in exactly the same way and adjust accordingly. This method is not as good as setting it up while out, but it is better than just replacing the bearings and putting it back in pot luck. Of course this is ***uming it was right before. If the rear end was not whining or making noise, it was probably fairly close.

Bones

 

Great advice!!! Thank you. New Timkin bearings and races are on the way. After talking to my dad today he has no idea as to the history of that third member for all he knows it could have 100,000 miles on it. They did pull the pinion carrier out last time to change the seal and didn't notice anything bad at that point. If this doesn't fix it or causes more issues then I'm replacing the whole third member with one built by a specialty shop.

 

I will try to explain my thinking In the 70s I did many 12 bolt Chevys a new sleeve will require around 500 foot lbs to start the crush (hard to do under the car on jack stands) as the bulge in the sleeve starts to collapse torque lessens to about 200 ft. lbs. about the same as a old sleeve stretched 1/8 inch another out is to put the new sleeve in a press and bring it down to close to the old sleeve leight. I've had guys tell me they used a 36" pipe wrench and a 24" breaker bar with a floor jack under the end to start the crush on the 12 bolt sleeves. Another point lube the nut well set the preload remove the nut clean and use lock tight and put the nut back on.